It is time for a rebuild.

I can go to a machine shop and they can do a factory rebuild and R&R for about $1400.

I can go to a good mechanic shop and he can do a more specialized rebuild for around $2500.

I wouldn't mind more performance but I definitely want decent gas mileage.

Rule of thumb what could one expect between these two types of rebuilds.

Joe Herman

 

I would want to know exactly what I am getting for the $2500 job. Sounds high to me. I would not expect good gas mileage.

 

That just doesn't sound right. Putting in a stock oem type cam vs a performance cam is just the price difference in the cam, probably $25 or so. Same thing with pistons, selecting a type of piston doesn't really add a lot to the price unless you go forged or special made.

Inside the block the only real changes you'd be making are pistons (flat top for about 9~10:1 cr), then a cam. Most cams are in the $100 range. Other than that, you have bearings but that's not a big cost difference either. Doing the oiling mods might cost a bit for the shop time but the HV oil pump is only $38 and that can't be too much over the price of a stock unit.

In other words, you should be able to go to any machine shop and ask about a rebuild and have them add a few bucks for a certain cam, pistons, bearings, oil pump, but not more that a few hundred over the regular price.

Unless he's talking about blueprinting the engine or porting the heads, that's a different story.

 

Pistons would be changed to give a CR of around 9:1. Recommends an Iskadarian RV Cam that would give a little more duration and cause the engine to run a little cleaner.

He would parallel deck the block. He sees some of these block 8-10 thousandths off.

Turn the crank on stroke and index where everything is right.

He would balance and blueprint the engine.

Haven't talked in detail about what all would be involved but the price would be $2500-$3000.

It will be this fall before he catches up on his race engines and would be ready for a job like this.

When I get the final details of what the job would be I will post. I am like you, economically it is probably not the smart thing to do.

Thanks.
Joe Herman

 

$2500-3000 sounds about right for a good performance rebuild like you are describing. There is a lot of machine work involved, and a lot more time and care is required of the rebuilder to properly balance and blueprint the motor. In addition, the parts that are used are typically more expensive. For example, a "stock" rebuild will often involve only honing the cylinders and reusing your existing pistons. Only those that are damaged will be replaced. Even if all of the pistons are replaced, stock cast pistons are cheap - less than $100 for a set of 8. "Off-the-shelf" forged flattop performance pistons will run 2-3 times that, and custom pistons start at $600 and go up.

The heads, however, are where a lot of the extra money in a performance rebuild goes. A stock rebuild will generally just include a three angle valve job, and replacing any burnt valves and obviously worn valve guides. A performance rebuild will include cc'ing and matching the combustion chambers, some port and bowl work (to unshroud the valves, for instance), and often new stainless valves in larger sizes than the stock valves.

Is it worth the extra money? Only you can answer that question. Many of us take great pleasure and pride in optimizing our machinery, and that includes having strong, well-built engines with the best of everything. The extra cost may be worth it just for the pride and peace of mind it gives you. That said, you may take more pleasure and pride out of being pragmatic and doing only what is needed. Some guys wax and polish their rides, some just hose 'em off. Tuh-may-toe, tuh-mah-toe.

If you do go with the "stock" rebuild, just make sure the rebuilder knows what he is doing and takes the time to do it right. Too many rebuilds are shoddily done with poorly machined parts, and by mechanics who don't know or don't care. The result is a motor that never does run well, burns oil, and eats its bearings within 10,000 miles.

 

Well spoken! I appreciate your insight into some of the technical tradeoffs.
I am definitly a "hoser offer" unless something really important is coming up: like a wedding! I do take pride in good machinery but like to do a cost/benefit analysis too. We humans are contradictory in a lot of ways. My truck is basically a farm truck that I like to take out on the town when it is running good. The farm is my avocation and not too big -- only ten acres of pecan trees. I will even do a little hunting with it when I don't need 4WD. When I need 4WD I go with my Scout or Suburban. I have owned my 1972 F250 since 1976 so I am not that fickle either.

I have Steve Christ's book to peruse also.

Thanks.
Joe Herman