frankenstein 6.9 rig
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,703
Likes: 4
From: Harrisburg, NE
frankenstein 6.9 rig
well my dad got another truck, this one is an 84 extended cab f250 4x4 6.9/4 gear w/4.10's. it no longer has its 6.9 diesel but is otherwise complete with an alright-good body and interior-$250
the previous one he got was similar but the bed is trash, it is important because between its 4 gear and transfer case is a us gear dual-range auxillary tansmission, which is quite similar to a gearendors with electronically activated under/overdrive, but less popular. it also has an autometer diesel tach-$150
and the first one he got is the most important, it is an 86 f250 extended cab, 6.9/auto with less than 100,000 miles on it. I swear that this is the nisest sounding/running diesel i have ever heard in a ford. the previous owner said that if you were nice and kept it under 65 she'd get about 16mpg. but this truck was wrecked in a hunting accident, the truck began to slide, and one tree stopped it from going off a drop off, another kept it from rolling, so no good body stuff, but the interior was still in great condition, even has buckets. we have been using this truck as a work horse in the yard occasonally- $500
this weekend i am going up to my parents to try and help my dad get the 6.9, the dual range, plus other assorted small items onto the 84 he just bought (even though i think they would go better in my highboy), and we are hoping that the end product turns out pretty good, and are especially hoping that the possibility of having 8 gears (not counting transfer case) and over-drive will boost economy while not losing too much of its truck ability.
the previous one he got was similar but the bed is trash, it is important because between its 4 gear and transfer case is a us gear dual-range auxillary tansmission, which is quite similar to a gearendors with electronically activated under/overdrive, but less popular. it also has an autometer diesel tach-$150
and the first one he got is the most important, it is an 86 f250 extended cab, 6.9/auto with less than 100,000 miles on it. I swear that this is the nisest sounding/running diesel i have ever heard in a ford. the previous owner said that if you were nice and kept it under 65 she'd get about 16mpg. but this truck was wrecked in a hunting accident, the truck began to slide, and one tree stopped it from going off a drop off, another kept it from rolling, so no good body stuff, but the interior was still in great condition, even has buckets. we have been using this truck as a work horse in the yard occasonally- $500
this weekend i am going up to my parents to try and help my dad get the 6.9, the dual range, plus other assorted small items onto the 84 he just bought (even though i think they would go better in my highboy), and we are hoping that the end product turns out pretty good, and are especially hoping that the possibility of having 8 gears (not counting transfer case) and over-drive will boost economy while not losing too much of its truck ability.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
You are going to have a very busy weekend.
The US Gear unit may be an overdrive, but it also may be an underdrive.
The bad thing about them is the amount of work to get it installed.
Since you have a donor truck that should be the same wheel base, you should have the correct driveshaft lengths and transfer case linkage. Take careful measurements as to how far the cross member has to be relocated for it to mount correctly.
Swapping the engine is going to take one day in itself.
Good luck, and do be carefull hoisting the engine. That much weight high enough to clear a 4x4 is real scarry. I pulled mine once with a big professional engine hoist, it was so shakey that I will only use a chain hoist now. You have to turn the engine almost sideways to get it in and out of the engine bay, to much wrestling it around to be safe with over a thousand pounds that high up in my opinion.
The US Gear unit may be an overdrive, but it also may be an underdrive.
The bad thing about them is the amount of work to get it installed.
Since you have a donor truck that should be the same wheel base, you should have the correct driveshaft lengths and transfer case linkage. Take careful measurements as to how far the cross member has to be relocated for it to mount correctly.
Swapping the engine is going to take one day in itself.
Good luck, and do be carefull hoisting the engine. That much weight high enough to clear a 4x4 is real scarry. I pulled mine once with a big professional engine hoist, it was so shakey that I will only use a chain hoist now. You have to turn the engine almost sideways to get it in and out of the engine bay, to much wrestling it around to be safe with over a thousand pounds that high up in my opinion.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,703
Likes: 4
From: Harrisburg, NE
we started to get the 6.9 ready to pull a few weeks back, and we removed the radiator support from the 86, might do the same for the 84, just to be safe. good thing you reminded me about the crossmember and transfer case linkage, although i have already thought about the driveshafts we will most likely have to have something done with the rear one, but we have one that will work for the front. and my dad ran the numbers on the dual range, we are sure that it has overdrive.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
If both trucks are extended cabs with the same wheel base you should have the driveshafts on the donor truck.
The transfer case has to slide back, so the front drive shaft has to get longer, the back one shorter. The transfer case shift linkage also has to get longer. I also understand that the floor pan has to be dented upward to clear the housing.
I looked at them kinda hard at one time thinking about one for my truck.
Check it all out carefully, look at all those things before you start installing it.
I really hate getting something half way installed and realizing I have to take it back out because I missed something. That will be easy to do with no installation instructions to guide you through the steps in the order they need to be done in.
Just remember to have fun while working with your dad, us dads like that as we get older.
The transfer case has to slide back, so the front drive shaft has to get longer, the back one shorter. The transfer case shift linkage also has to get longer. I also understand that the floor pan has to be dented upward to clear the housing.
I looked at them kinda hard at one time thinking about one for my truck.
Check it all out carefully, look at all those things before you start installing it.
I really hate getting something half way installed and realizing I have to take it back out because I missed something. That will be easy to do with no installation instructions to guide you through the steps in the order they need to be done in.
Just remember to have fun while working with your dad, us dads like that as we get older.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,330
Likes: 17
From: Dryden, ON, Canada
I suggest not just pulling the rad support, but, the entire front clip, it's actually less work. There's the 2 mounts under the core support, 2 bolts at the top of each fender at the cab, one from the bottom on each at the cab, and one in behind the fender you get by going in by the door hinges with the door open. Makes for ALOT more room to work.
