High revving 351W
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From: La Grande, OR
no, since the old throttle was the original, it was pretty brittle, and when i swapped the engine, i had turned it back towards the firewall and thats when i noticed that the orange plastic inside the spring was all broken. So no, it wasnt really hot, if anything, since i did the swap over christmas break, it was really cold (5 below at one point, kinda rough on a washingtonian). so i put the new one on and that hasnt been a problem since. the chassis to engine ground cables are all good, as i also replaced those and put all new stuff on.
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From: Bend,OR
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I'm swaping in a 351 in my stang and I'm using the 302 computer. From what I researched it will work with no problems.
Also I had a 5 speed in the stang and it was a really weak peice (kept breaking and costing me time in the 1/4 mile), so I put in an AOD and built it to Lentech specs (Strip VB, one peice shaft, extra redline clutches, and stallion converter). Trans is awesome! The 302 blew up, so I'm putting the 351 in. Point is... the AOD is a strong peice (when gone through properly). Mine should handle around 900 hp, can't build a 5 speed to handle that (for everyday driving anyway).
Also I had a 5 speed in the stang and it was a really weak peice (kept breaking and costing me time in the 1/4 mile), so I put in an AOD and built it to Lentech specs (Strip VB, one peice shaft, extra redline clutches, and stallion converter). Trans is awesome! The 302 blew up, so I'm putting the 351 in. Point is... the AOD is a strong peice (when gone through properly). Mine should handle around 900 hp, can't build a 5 speed to handle that (for everyday driving anyway).
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From: La Grande, OR
i think what he means is that you cant use a speed density ecu on a mass air engine, and vice versa. still waiting on that computer of mine to see if it helps with the high idle, ill let everyone know
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From: Bend,OR
no the speed density ecu runs off of specific tables to calculate things for a 302 or a 351w. those tables are not the same for both motors.
Mass air doesnt care how big the motor is because it gauges incoming air and then makes its calculations.
fordfuelinjection.com explains in better detail
Mass air doesnt care how big the motor is because it gauges incoming air and then makes its calculations.
fordfuelinjection.com explains in better detail
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From: La Grande, OR
ok, i got the new EEC module (thanks justin), and it does come down some. I found a tach and put it in and found that with the old EEC, it idles at 2500 RPM, with this new one, it idles in park at 1500 RPM. It still seems too high, there is also some surging, and when I rev it up when it is in park or neutral, the idle doesnt come down, it stays wherever the rev topped out at. anything come to mind?
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From: La Grande, OR
i took off all the vacuum lines and plugged them off, it still did the high idle for a while, i guess the cold start system, then it came down to about 1000-1100 and started surging for awhile. after about a minute though, everything smoothed out and it idles right at 1000 in park and neutral, and when i take it out of gear, it shoots up to about 1400, but then immediately right back down to 1000 RPMs.
I'm not sure how long the EEC was disconnected from power, as the guy i got it from has been parting out his truck for awhile, but if it has been disconnected from power for so long, is it going to have to re-learn how to work an engine, and especially working a different one? If so, how do I make it start learning? Sorry for the long post, im just excited that this has so far solved my high idle problem.
I'm not sure how long the EEC was disconnected from power, as the guy i got it from has been parting out his truck for awhile, but if it has been disconnected from power for so long, is it going to have to re-learn how to work an engine, and especially working a different one? If so, how do I make it start learning? Sorry for the long post, im just excited that this has so far solved my high idle problem.
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I had a problem in the stang a long time ago. It also idled high, like at like 1500 rpms, when rolling to a stop, when finally stopped it would go back to around 1200. In between shifts (when it was a manual) the rpms would go up even though I let off the gas. Drove me nuts. Turns out it was the IAC. I just unplugged the damn thing and it works just fine, in fact I made a block off plate for it and it has ran great ever since. Simple to try, just unplug the IAC (might have to adjust the idle set screw though).
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From: La Grande, OR
i think i found yet another thing that could be contributing to the problem. on the top of the throttle body, there's the post that with the bracket that connects to the throttle adjuster on the throttle bondy, the throttle cable, and on mine (because of AOD), the throttle pressure cable for the transmission. well, when i swapped these engines, the one i got on the 351 had an E40D, and that bracket doesnt have a little prong on one end for the throttle pressure cable, so i used the bracket from the 302. only problem is that the post where it fits over isnt big enough for the inside of the bracket and it (i guess for lack of a better word) wiggles, and just enough so that it moves the throttle adjuster, and in so causes the high idle. does anyone know if they make the 351 bracket with the AOD "prong," or is there a difference in between a 351 and 302 throttle body, and i can just swap those over.
for when i get this fixed and if i still have this problem, is the IAC plug the one on the bottom of the throttle body, or is that the TPS, and the IAC is on the side? thanks for everything
for when i get this fixed and if i still have this problem, is the IAC plug the one on the bottom of the throttle body, or is that the TPS, and the IAC is on the side? thanks for everything
Last edited by nighthawk285; May 23, 2006 at 01:14 AM.
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From: La Grande, OR
i found a solution to the throttle bracket problem, i used a couple of brass coupling sheaths as bushings, and got that bracket to not "wiggle," it still seemd a little high and it wouldnt come down right away so i tried what Mike12 said and i think disconnected the IAC. it was the one on the side of the throttle body. now it idles right, and comes down after revving. thanks for all your guys' help on this, i appreciate it.
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