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Old Apr 29, 2006 | 09:36 AM
  #1  
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pilot815
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Electric Door Locks

A few years ago the auto driver door lock stopped working properly. It didnt bother me too much, just had to push the lock manually. The other day the passenger went out. Now im irritated. So last night i pull it apart, and find that the actuator and mechanism all works fine. The problem is where the actuator is attached to the door. The ford guy said its a rivet. I guess it sheered off? So now i have a very small piece that i have to try and attach something to. I already tried putting a nut, and different push washers. Nothing has worked yet. Anybody have the same problem, or have an idea how to fix it.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2006 | 04:42 PM
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I have the same problem. The only way to fix it is to drill/cut/break off the rivit still attached to the electric lock and put a bolt and nut on. This is from the guys at the dealership. Said it would take about an hours labor. I didn't bother but let me know if you do or if you get a better idea.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2006 | 10:14 PM
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I went to the hardware store saturday and bought a huge asst. of all kinds of different pieces of hardware including speed nuts and such things that hopefully will be able to grab on to the remaining piece of the rivet. If worse comes to worse i guess ill go all the way and maybe drill it. Oshoguno, have you thought about using a real strong epoxy such as JB Weld?
 
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Old May 1, 2006 | 01:04 AM
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The easy way to remove the rivets is to drive the steel center core out with a hammer and a punch then drill out the soft aluminum with a 3/8" bit. If you don't drive out that steel core first, have fun (not) drilling it . Honestly, it only takes a few minutes max to remove each rivet so your best move to make a permanent repair will be to remove each rivet and replace it with a 1/4" hex bolt, hex nut, and lockwasher. Some locktite is cheap insurance.
 

Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; May 1, 2006 at 01:19 AM.
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Old May 1, 2006 | 05:33 AM
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From: Caledonia, Ontario
Hey Pilot, I did try using Liquid Aluminum on it but it broke the second time I unlocked the door. Cowboy, I am not sure I can drive the core out, but then again I never got the solenoid out of the door. How hard is it to remove the solenoid from the door panel?
 
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Old May 1, 2006 | 12:04 PM
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From: CANADA
can it be zap strapped so you dont have to remove it from the door???
 
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Old May 1, 2006 | 02:00 PM
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Take CowboyBilly's advice, that's the best fix.
 
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Old May 1, 2006 | 04:47 PM
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From: Eastern WA
Originally Posted by oshoguno
Hey Pilot, I did try using Liquid Aluminum on it but it broke the second time I unlocked the door. Cowboy, I am not sure I can drive the core out, but then again I never got the solenoid out of the door. How hard is it to remove the solenoid from the door panel?
I haven't personally done one on an Explorer but I've removed these rivets on Rangers and numerous other GM products. A punch and a common carpentry hammer will do the job. Hit it good and hard, you won't hurt it and that's what it takes to plow the core out. There will be enough of the steel core exposed to allow you to whack it pretty good in the beginning; if for some reason it's still snug when the tip of the core moves and becomes flush with the rivet head, you can use another punch or a nail (anything a little under 1/8") to drive the rest out from the center of the aluminum rivet. BTW, if you try to drill the core out you will not have any "fun". The drill will not want to stay on the core and will slide off the rivet. Then, once you finally get some of the core drilled away, the whole thing spins; this is expecially pronounced when drilling out the steel core and al rivet due to the steel being so strong. I say this from learning the hard way.

*I just swapped out a P/W motor two weeks ago on a GM and had to deal with these rivets. Gawd do I wished I had taked a pic or two of the process.
 
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