I have a 1980 F150 4X4 with 351M. I had to replace the cam and lifters. I think I adjusted the valves wrong. It worked fine at first but now is getting a Tick. I think on the passengers side. I have a manual that tels me how to adjust the valves when I firs put the cam and lifters in. But it doesn't tell me how to do it after the lifters have filled with oil. I am suppose to compress the lifters, the readjust the valves. How do I compress the lifters without removing the intake and pushrods? Do I even have to compress them? Any help would be great. Thanks Ted

 

if you have the bolt down pedestal rockers there is no adjustment, they just bolt down and that's it. torque to about 20 ft.lbs.

if it's developing a tick you may have a lifter base and/or a lobe going away. you can check/compare lobe lift at the rocker using a dial indicator on a magnetic base. this will only tell you if the cam is going flat, lifters will have to be inspected visually.

 

Thanks for the input. Ted

 

Did you break in the new cam and lifters when you installed them?

 

I broke them in acording to the manufacturers instructions

 

We've been repeating this for years, but, you need to add STP oil treatment to your oil to save the cam. Search the forums for ZDDP.

 

I have never used an oil treatment when breaking in a camshaft.

 

A44X44ted: how did you check your valve train geometry when you installed the lifters? I just had the 351m in my truck go out- lifter started making noise and got bad real quick- very bad! shut it down and towed it- building a 400 so will diagnose when i take it out someday.

Tim,

How about the cam companies that advise it. I'm a bit confused now- although i am running a roller cam so it isn't as much of an issue.

I'm under the impression that a guy needs to add (GM EOS assembly lube part # 1052367- 16 oz. bottle-got this from your other post) or similar to replace the lubricant taken out of todays typical motor oils.

So does delo or rotello do away with the need for zddp? What do you use?

thanks

 

AFAIK the diesel oil has the proper additives in it already to break in a flat tappet cam. As far as using the GM additive it probably would not hurt and may give outstanding benefits. Most of the OEM specific purpose products are pretty good. I do not know what additives are in STP but AFAIK it is just a VI improver that should not be needed.

http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/PartsAcc...reProducts.jsp

 

I have to break in my cam in my 400 soon. all of these different stories of breaking in the cam with what oil and what not, im not to sure fo what to go with. what is to be the best way to break in a cam with which chemicals, diesel oil, normal oil, oil addetives, and what not ?

 

the problem I would have with stp is it seems for thick and sticky with other additives that probably are not needed. never heard of afaik- never seen it either- where is it sold typically?

 

FWIW..the only thing I have ever (but also always) used on a new cam - and I mean 'ever' as in for over 30 years now - is the black Crane cam lobe paste. No special oil or additives..not that 'assembly lube' looking stuff they send with most cams...just that one Crane product. In literally in hundreds of motor builds I have yet to ever lose a cam or lifter. And none goes on on the journals..that can cause oil blockages since the stuff is thick. Regular assembly lube is all the bearing journals need (TRW or MOA are what I use for bearing assembly lube)

And in some of the race engines we've built, we are talking cams with lifts in excess of .65" and triple valve springs...so highly at risk for premature cam failure. Of course it goes without saying that one of the most important aspects of the whole break-in procedure is to have your engine correctly setup as far as static timing, pre-filled carb (unless EFI..then it should be purged) etc. so that the engine fires in less than two complete revolutions, whereupon you immediately bring it up to 1500 RPM and above and slowly vary the RPM up and down for at a minimum 15 minutes, preferrably 30 mintues, before shutting it back down again