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E350 won't keep running

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Old Apr 22, 2006 | 12:50 AM
  #1  
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From: Frequently frozen MN
E350 won't keep running

I've got an 8 7 E350 460-4 bbl( all right it's an RV), and it quits after a few minutes. I can restart it -- generally by pumping the throttle.

I think it's fuel, and I'm tracking down the shop manuals, but I wondered if anybody has seen something like this.

It quits quicker if I pop the gas -- which adds to the thought that it's fuel.

I'm thinking that it's low pressure or a block between the fuel pump and the carb. ANy thoughts will be appreciated

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Old Apr 22, 2006 | 01:03 AM
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Sounds like the accelerator pump inside the carb, it's weak, causing multiple pumps to get enough gas in to start, and quits when you hit the throlle while running from not enough gas going in.
First try replacing the fuel filter, you can also put a wrag at the line where it goes into the carb and crack it while running, be careful because it should really squirt.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2006 | 02:28 AM
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Then check the fuel line to make sure it does not have a hole to suck air somewhere or a kink or crack. May even have to have the tube in the tank checked too.

If it isn't the fuel filter, fuel line, the carb, carb filter. Check the fuel pump..could have a weak diaphram. Have it pressure tested.


My husband's 83 E150 302 was acting the same way for a few months last year with cutting out, hard starting and finally kept dying at stoplights. He thought it was everything else Except the fuel pump (AutoZone) as he put one in the previous year. Called the mechanic (we knew him for years) for help and finally a tow to his shop. Checked what was needed to. It was the fuel pump. My husband replaced it and it runs fine now.

I was having a similar problem with my own 81 E100 300 with cutting out of late and become hard starting. It did "die" while in town just recently, a couple of times, even hesitated while moving (was able to give the accelerator a quick couple of pumps) Finally had the van checked out by the same local mechanic after it finally "died" and would not start. This just a few yards from his shop (and after I stopped there to ask his advice) And so knew what was going on. He kept for a day to check it out thoroughly and everything checked out ok. Did not charge me a thing. But suggested my getting a new fuel pump as he thought the diaphram might be too weak to work properly under high heat conditions (it was over 104 that day) and long driving. No telling how long that pump has been there before I got the van in late 2004. So I bought a new one and will be putting it in tomorrow.

Good, honest mechanics are worth their weight in gold.
No, make that more valuable.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 02:57 PM
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From: Frequently frozen MN
Thanks for all of the suggestions, and I will be looking at that stuff, but I found some more information in the 460 engine forum that's worth checking -- if I can find everything.

This is an RV, and it appears to have an electric fuel pump ( with a 4bbl). I've seen references to a fuse that could prevent the pump from running when the key was just 'on'. (would run in start). This would fit my observations pretty well. However, I can't find any sign of such a fuse, nor any good information on how things might be wired. I believe that I found the inertial switch, but that's about it. The electric pump is just very briefly mentioned in the factory manuals ( found some at the library). It apparently was only used in RVs and other cutaway applications.

Anyone have any info on this setup? I've poked around a little, but these things are CROWDED.

Thanks,

ford2go
 
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 05:12 PM
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This may help.

 
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 05:34 PM
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by ford2go
This is an RV, and it appears to have an electric fuel pump ( with a 4bbl). I've seen references to a fuse that could prevent the pump from running when the key was just 'on'. (would run in start). This would fit my observations pretty well.
ford2go
As you can see from the diagram above when in the start position you bypass the Oil Pressure switch and its fuse #18 in the fuse panel. This will also bypass the Inertia Switch, Fuel Pump Cutoff Relay and The Resistance wire.

Good Luck and have a good day.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 10:24 PM
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From: Frequently frozen MN
That's some great info. I did a lot of digging and couldn't find any references covering these sections

Thanks

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Old Apr 29, 2006 | 06:24 PM
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From: Frequently frozen MN
Well. it's fixed, and is my face red. See it's like this, my temp gauge quit working, and I didn't want to pull the instrument panel -- I'd have to disconnect the speedo at the tranny. Also, I didn't know what I might find.

So. I ran new wires from what ( I thought) was the temp sensor. The location and
shape matched some references I checked. But it was instead -- the OIL PRESSURE SWITCH.

I would have probably tried undoing the mod soon, but the info from subford and one reference in the actual shop manual made it seem a lot more likely.

Anyway, it's fixed, and thanks to everyone. Now if I can just figure out where the
real temp sensor is -- and also ( I discovered this along the way) where I can find a fuel filter that looks like a small oil filter. ( of course it's unmarked)

Thanks again
ford2go
 
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