Block casting
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,436
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From: Montana
Block casting
I checked my short block and there is a tag in the drivers side that reads H54920 and then on the starter side the casting is
D4AE-6015-AA 4
7621
The guy told me I could run a roller cam to help with emissions (probobly E303 or something) without modifieing the block......I know its not a roller block so what year is it? Im thinking he meant a retro fit cam. I guess i need to now for things like which rear main seal to use....ect. ect.
D4AE-6015-AA 4
7621
The guy told me I could run a roller cam to help with emissions (probobly E303 or something) without modifieing the block......I know its not a roller block so what year is it? Im thinking he meant a retro fit cam. I guess i need to now for things like which rear main seal to use....ect. ect.
Last edited by EgoMan; Apr 21, 2006 at 08:33 PM.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,436
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From: Montana
whats the data code? VIN code? door tag? I determined its a 2 piece rear main, is there gonna be any conflict using this motor with all my 92 gear bolted to it, EFI all that? When I buy parts it should all be the same right?
Hotshot
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 12,170
Likes: 5
From: The hills of No. Calif.
The date code is a three or four digit alpha-numeric code cast into the block right near the casting number. It should look something like this:
Since we're talking about a 351W, the imbalance factor isn't an issue as they were all 28oz. But as for roller cam, as you surmised the only way to run a roller cam with factory parts is with a retrofit kit with a smaller base circle cam, otherwise you need to run aftermarket stuff. As for the rest of the parts bolting up you should be pretty much okay, but pay attention to the details (like the dipstick, as was mentioned in another thread.) Also, what heads are you planning to use? If you're running the late-model heads, you shouldn't have a problem but if you have early heads to match the block, you should be aware that the early 351W had an extra bolt on each end of the head with an L-shaped water passage. Not really a problem, just something to watch out for. The later intake manifold will still bolt up to it okay.
Since we're talking about a 351W, the imbalance factor isn't an issue as they were all 28oz. But as for roller cam, as you surmised the only way to run a roller cam with factory parts is with a retrofit kit with a smaller base circle cam, otherwise you need to run aftermarket stuff. As for the rest of the parts bolting up you should be pretty much okay, but pay attention to the details (like the dipstick, as was mentioned in another thread.) Also, what heads are you planning to use? If you're running the late-model heads, you shouldn't have a problem but if you have early heads to match the block, you should be aware that the early 351W had an extra bolt on each end of the head with an L-shaped water passage. Not really a problem, just something to watch out for. The later intake manifold will still bolt up to it okay.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,436
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From: Montana
I looked and the dipstick looks to be in the same spot..drivers side rear of the block...As for the heads im going to run ARF 185's the pistons seem to be notched very well.
Also I was looking at flexplates but I didnt see any for the E4od...I was wondering if there are any aftermarket ones with 28oz imbalance? Id like to lighten things up as much as possible.
Also I was looking at flexplates but I didnt see any for the E4od...I was wondering if there are any aftermarket ones with 28oz imbalance? Id like to lighten things up as much as possible.
Last edited by EgoMan; Apr 23, 2006 at 12:45 AM.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
Two ways to run a roller cam. Use a reduced base cam like Tigerdan said ( cams are expensive) or use the std base 5.0 cams with Crane's retro fit linkbar lifters ( $425 a set) Eiither way it's hardly cost effective, it'll run you around $600 to convert. You'll need different pushrods as well. An E4OD shouldn't be a problem with a 351. My 95 351W has been bolted to it's E4OD since it left the factory.
