Overheating Problem
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New User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 17
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Overheating Problem
98 EXP EB w/127k mls... wife was driving the car today and it starts to overheat, then the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT came on and finally the car starts to shake and almosts stops on her. when we got it home there was rust colored coolant all over the place. I saw that the coolant was spouting from the temp sensor that runs from the thermostat, behind the alternator. Replaced the sensor and it's still overheating. Should I also change the thermostat? how 'bout the fan clutch? water pump? Coolant systems are NOT my forte, so some help would be appreciated. 
As always, much thanks to you all.
-R
As always, much thanks to you all.
-R
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
Likes: 18
From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
Rust colored coolant indicates it is behind on maintenance. Flush the system for starters.
Is this a one time event?
Does it overheat in traffic, stop and go?
Does it overheat on the highway?
Did you check the fan belt to see if it could be slipping?
Do you have an engine mounted fan? Is there any wobble in the shaft?
Can you spin the fan freely by hand or does it stop right away?
Basic requirements are, #1, good airflow: no obstructions ie dirt, mud, bugs, leaves etc. on the outside of your radiator, fan working properly. #2 good circulation belt turning the pump, pump in good condition, thermostat open, lower hose (intake side of pump,) not collapsing at speed, radiator clear of rust, corrosion, sludge etc.
Then also to be concerned about is combustion leaking into the cooling system. As in a leaking head gasket, cracked head or block. If all the above checked out ok, do a chemical 'block check' and/or a sniffer test to determine if there are traces of carbon monoxide in the cooling system.
Give us a progress report....... good luck.
Is this a one time event?
Does it overheat in traffic, stop and go?
Does it overheat on the highway?
Did you check the fan belt to see if it could be slipping?
Do you have an engine mounted fan? Is there any wobble in the shaft?
Can you spin the fan freely by hand or does it stop right away?
Basic requirements are, #1, good airflow: no obstructions ie dirt, mud, bugs, leaves etc. on the outside of your radiator, fan working properly. #2 good circulation belt turning the pump, pump in good condition, thermostat open, lower hose (intake side of pump,) not collapsing at speed, radiator clear of rust, corrosion, sludge etc.
Then also to be concerned about is combustion leaking into the cooling system. As in a leaking head gasket, cracked head or block. If all the above checked out ok, do a chemical 'block check' and/or a sniffer test to determine if there are traces of carbon monoxide in the cooling system.
Give us a progress report....... good luck.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
well, I had to bite the bullet and take it a radiator shop 
fact is, I could not figure out how to drain and flush the radiator my truck. No petcock clearly visible for starers and with the reservoir tank, not sure how to rig up a flush. to add insult to injury (and my ignorance for coolant systems 101), the radiator was shot. so now i'm stuck forking over $400
this raises one question, what is the difference between the aluminum core and the copper core rads, like the ones Silla sells? I hear mixed opinions.
anyway, lesson learned. must educate myself on auto care systems that I need help with.
fact is, I could not figure out how to drain and flush the radiator my truck. No petcock clearly visible for starers and with the reservoir tank, not sure how to rig up a flush. to add insult to injury (and my ignorance for coolant systems 101), the radiator was shot. so now i'm stuck forking over $400
this raises one question, what is the difference between the aluminum core and the copper core rads, like the ones Silla sells? I hear mixed opinions.
anyway, lesson learned. must educate myself on auto care systems that I need help with.
