I have a '68 F100 with a 360 3 speed. I have completely removed the front end to the frame. I have spoken with an engine builder who said for about $1,450. to $1,500 he will rework my engine and for an additional $150. he will make it a 390. I have opted to go with the 390 conversion but want to know about some part upgrades. It has a 2bbl intake with original carb on it now, and I would like a 4bbl. I know I need a new intake and carb, but which one, and how about the cam, valves and lifters?? Can anyone tell me a good performing combination of these parts to get, or should I just pay the rebuild shop to do it all. I just thought it would be cheaper to buy them and give them to the shop to install. I will be installing a C6 tranny with this engine. Also, while I have the entire front end removed, are there any suggestions of things I might change or add to my truck to make it more enjoyable. I am trying my first restoration and do not want find I should have done something after I put it back together. I know this is getting a little long but like I said, this is my first so please bear with me. I have purchased a few quarts of some stuff called rust encapsulator from the Eastwood Co. and am using it on my frame and other suspension parts before painting. Just wondering if anyone has used this stuff and knows if it is good. Thanks ahead for all help.

 

use a rebuild kit for a 60's 390 car engine, this will give
you a substantial increase in performance and mileage due
to higher compression pistons,9.6 to 1 vs. 8.5 to 1 or less.
a 4v gives a longer power curve than a 2v. power steering is a
great improvement to make. power brakes are an improvement
but not what I expected. a dana 60 rear end, and a 4 speed, new
process 435 has more drivability to it than a reguler 435.
dual straight pipes, mmmmm... cloth is alot less sticky
than vinyl on a hot day. a camper special rad will keep
an 390 from over heating guaranteed,the big fan is
also very helpfull. I have a 390 in parts and the main
bearing oil holes don;t all line up with the holes in
the main bearings themselves, noticing the wear difference
it would be an good idea to drill the holes out so they
match the hole in the bearing. boring only as much as you
have to, c8 aeh heads flow better than other stock 390
heads I believe, I'm outta ideas, for the
bolting of the inner to outer fender use a thin rubber in
between the two so rust doesn't get in there as quick
when you put the truck back together.. hope this helps
some what.


Fe power

 

390 4v intakes off old cars are alot cheaper than
buying them new!! there are also double pumpers on
top of some of these old intakes, rebuilding those
is probaly cheaper than buying a new holley or e-brock

Fe power

 

Here's my set-up:

105 Block bored 60 over with all oil mods done to block and heads. Melling MTF-4 dual pattern cam (see specs below) with stock valvetrain & C8aeh heads (overall compression ratio is ~10:1). High volume oil pump, windage tray, new dizzy with pertronix ignitor and pertronix coil, Edelbrock RPM manifold, Edelbrock 600 CFM carb, Carter electric fuel pump, 2 1/2" duals run from stock manifolds through Hooker Max Flow mufflers. Overall this is an excellent set-up for both low-end power and mid-range performance.

You asked what else you can do. Big Block has some good ideas with the ps/pb conversions. You can also install new steering linkages, shocks, polyurethane suspension/steering bushings as well as cab mounts to make your truck ride and feel better than new.

Good luck with your project.


Cam Specs:
Dur. @ .050: 204 Int / 214 Exh
Adv Dur.: 282 Int / 292 Exh
Cam Lift: .280 Int / .295 Exh
Gross Valve Lift: .484 Int / .510 Exh
Center Line: 107 Int / 117 Exh