air conditioner
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 25
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From: Birmingham al
air conditioner
(1992 FORD AEROSTAR XL V6 3.0)
Ok here the problem my van was retrofit to use 134a freon.
Well i was trying to put more freon in & opps to much.
I am going to fix that. But just wanted to know dose anybody
out there know what would be a good freon to put back in.
something that would make cold when idling
Ok here the problem my van was retrofit to use 134a freon.
Well i was trying to put more freon in & opps to much.
I am going to fix that. But just wanted to know dose anybody
out there know what would be a good freon to put back in.
something that would make cold when idling
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 271
Likes: 1
From: Chesapeake VA
If it was retrofitted already, stick with r134a. If you put too much in there you might see into getting the system evacuated anyway to minimize any noncondensables in the system. Also see if the system holds vacuum to check for any leaks.
Former ******
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,901
Likes: 2
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
If you are haveing problems getting cold output at idle, you may want to get a manifold guage set and measure your high and low side pressures. Compare them against a chart. This will telly ou if you are undercharged, overcharged, partial system blockage, etc. As far a a good refrigerant, I have found Freezone to be unbeatable in efficiency. I think there may be other issues here however, such as a plugged orfice tube. It is hard to diagnose the system without the use of a guage set. Measureing the low side alone is inaccurate. You need to see the high side pressure, since most of the real efficiency is in the condensor (high side). The evaporators is ussually extra large, to allow for maximum efficiency, but the systems efficiency as a whole relies entirely upon the systems ability to get rid of the absorbed heat through the condensor. The hotter it is outside, the higher the pressure will be on the high side, since higher pressures would be required to get the gaseous refrigerant to change into a liquid.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 111
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This is a slightly different topic but it's A/C related and I didn’t want to make a new thread for this simple, probably unimportant, question.
I was surveying my A/C system after discovering that it has a leak that releases refrigerant as fast as it comes out of the can, and I noticed that the AC compressor was mounted in a weird way. It seems the bolt pattern on the compressor doesn’t match the pattern on my van. Take a look:
Is this some type of universal mounting system or did somebody put the wrong compressor on?
I was surveying my A/C system after discovering that it has a leak that releases refrigerant as fast as it comes out of the can, and I noticed that the AC compressor was mounted in a weird way. It seems the bolt pattern on the compressor doesn’t match the pattern on my van. Take a look:
Is this some type of universal mounting system or did somebody put the wrong compressor on?
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,818
Likes: 3
Yeah, that's the world renowned "Redneck Retention System" a.k.a. bailing wire method. Man, you are missing the bolts that are supposed to hold the compressor in place. There should be four long bolts securing that puppy. I would say someone substituted the wrong compressor at some point in time. I'm surprised the serpentine belt stays on since the compressor pulley will be out of alignment with the rest of the belt drive path.
Last edited by aerocolorado; Apr 27, 2006 at 08:59 AM.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,222
Likes: 1
From: East Central Florida
It has been my experience that R134 generally doesn't cool (exchange) at idle in a conversion system very well. It has less density than R-12 Freon Based refrigerant did.
It must work harder and move in greater volumetric terms to do what R-12 used to do.
This condition can be exacerbated if capilary tube & dehydrater/drier weren't replaced at the time of the refrigerant upgrade/conversion.
Also, many of these vehicles came with those dreaded "Black Death" compressors. If that's the case and the slippers did disintegrate in the comp' and the system was not properly cleaned after such a Comp' failure, there may very well be residual debris in the system.
There are 2 more factors to check out, Low compressor output if the Compressor has wear on it, and intermittent A/C Clutch operation from bad sensors or bad clutch. That would be determined in what khantyranitar described above.
As for Aeromac121s' photo, that is an incorrect compressor for application shown. Be careful you don't "lose it" and do radical damage to front accessory drive belt system, radiator, or steering gear shaft below it, when it breaks loose. I would be willing to bet It goes forward when it does fail.
FBp
It must work harder and move in greater volumetric terms to do what R-12 used to do.
This condition can be exacerbated if capilary tube & dehydrater/drier weren't replaced at the time of the refrigerant upgrade/conversion.
Also, many of these vehicles came with those dreaded "Black Death" compressors. If that's the case and the slippers did disintegrate in the comp' and the system was not properly cleaned after such a Comp' failure, there may very well be residual debris in the system.
There are 2 more factors to check out, Low compressor output if the Compressor has wear on it, and intermittent A/C Clutch operation from bad sensors or bad clutch. That would be determined in what khantyranitar described above.
As for Aeromac121s' photo, that is an incorrect compressor for application shown. Be careful you don't "lose it" and do radical damage to front accessory drive belt system, radiator, or steering gear shaft below it, when it breaks loose. I would be willing to bet It goes forward when it does fail.
FBp
Last edited by FordBoypete; Apr 27, 2006 at 09:15 AM.
