Garage Workbenches
I wish I could do that stuff with wood. I have a whole bunch of steel cabinetry both base and wall cabinets that came out of a Lab. It is in great shape except a couple pieces of under sink units that have some rust. Nothing that wont clean up with a wire brush and some Rust Bullet. I will have to fab some tops for some of the units. I have some of the real thick coated particlecrud tops that are in good shape to reuse tho.
The lucky man's new toy is here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=486895
I can't wait to get mine set up.
http://frederic.midimonkey.com/yard/garage/IM001740.JPG
http://frederic.midimonkey.com/yard/garage/IM001677.JPG
The paneling wasn't too expensive, and I liked it's appearance much more than exposed MDF
.I'm even going to stain it. When I bought stain to rebuild the garden bench, I was a moron and bought four cans instead of one. I barely used 1/2" off the top of the first can, so this works out.
Bench, originally:
http://frederic.midimonkey.com/yard/bench/IM001691.JPG
Bench, rebuilt (new oak slats, wirewheeled rusty iron sides, primed, painted, etc):
http://frederic.midimonkey.com/yard/bench/IM001701.JPG
Anyway, that's the color my workbenches will be. The top will be MDF as well, I just haven't decided what surface needs to be on top of that. I have a big sheet of steel that eyeballing it looks like cutting it in half will do the trick, then trim, for a nice steel top. I was trying to think of other, inexpensive but reasonably hard-wearing surfaces I could put on top of the MDF.

Your workshop looks almost as cluttered as mine does at the moment. I never can seem to get enuf storage space to ease the clutter. Plus I have "help" from the family that just pitch things into my shop area.

I have two tables in the shop that have exposed MDF and they are just painted. Paneling would look much better.
Last edited by Torque1st; Apr 29, 2006 at 11:29 PM.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://frederic.midimonkey.com/yard/garage/IM001742.JPG
I'll make the cabinet openings the correct size with the router. Hopefully today I'll get to finish, then I can install the tops and make the doors. I should have enough oak scraps to make the door frames, then bevel leftover MDF to put in the center. Not because I want to, but because I have it in a pile. Originally I was thinking of expanded/perferated steel inside the door frames, but why spend money.
Long view:
http://frederic.midimonkey.com/yard/garage/IM001744.JPG
Beer/soda fridge cabinet paneled, and part of the shaper cabinet:
http://frederic.midimonkey.com/yard/garage/IM001745.JPG
It's very slow going lately.... not getting enough sleep.
I will just have to suffer along with banging 2x4's together. That is the extent of my woodworking skills.http://frederic.midimonkey.com/yard/...ean-small2.jpg
It was "okay" but I made the mistake of making the 18" deep instead of 24" deep, thus limiting their usefulness. I made them narrow so I could in theory pull a car in however I quickly realized that's never going to happen, so because they weren't too useful they ended up being one huge "storage shelf" as you can see in the picture.
What I've done here Torque, is really easy. If you're familiar with the veneer-coated MDF assemble-yourself-furniture I've basically done the same thing, minus the fancy hardware. Instead, I've used 5/16" hardwood dowels.
I bought a doweling jig at Ace Hardware (http://ace.imageg.net/graphics/produ...2-986737dt.jpg) and adjusted it so that the dowels would be dead center across the thickness of the 3/4" MDF. Then I just marked where the dowels should go, attach the jig, and drill holes. After that, I simply hammer in a dowel, slather the edge with glue, and join to the next panel at a right angle, and clamp. I had to go slow mostly because I was using "speed squares" as right angle braces during the clamping, and I only have two so I could only clamp two joints at a time.
Attaching the paneling is just as easy.. cut to fit with a slight overhang into the cabinet door holes (for later adjusting shape with the router), apply glue, slip the tongues into the grooves, then using an electric brad stapler shoot a few 5/8" brads to hold the pieces tightly while the glue dries.
See, really not that hard at all. The hardest thing was figuring out that screws aren't going to work, driven into the edges of MDF as it splits, and what to use instead. Once I arrived at the dowel idea, and predrilling the holes, it's worked out quite well.
Anyway, no progress today, I have a job interview in NYC and I've had yet again, zero sleep. Grrrrr.




