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Any tips I should know about mud runnin in a Diesel? I know you need wheelspin and momentum. But does the torque from a diesel make up for the high rpm's needed for a gas engine? I went yesterday, and kept it about 2500 rpm's, and seemed to have plenty of wheelspin.
im not sure if it was just my truck or theres others like it but mud likes to come through the steering shaft boot on the firewall so dont put in items you dont want wet down there. also make sure you are in four wheel drive before attempting mud, and one last thing wash the engine off the day you go but dont wash it when it is still hot.
Ditto on what KO said, but the one advantage to diseals is that you can get away with running a faster gear set cause the low rpm power band makes up for the power loss, and thus a high wheel speed can be achieved.
That thing is like a boat anchor up there...any small hole a gasser would cruise right over a diesel may sink. Good power though, especially with a tuner. I can't go in as deep of mud, but I am not lifted. It can also be difficult to recover a stuck diesel (with the exception of a few here) they are usually the biggest trucks out there and samuris and wranglers don't pull too well.
If you want to even compete with some BB's then you will have to run some ginormously wide tires that dont dig too quick but also pull well and lock both ends.
Right now, I'm stock. Just a K&N, 4" Exhaust, and 265 mud radials. Oh yeah, with 4.11's. Wish I had 3.73's most of the time, 'till I need to pull stumps! When I was wheeling at my buddies' house last weekend, I remembered that if you slightly push on the brake (while you're spinning) the LS will engage both wheels. And it worked!
Oh, and when you go wheeling in granite mud, make sure you wash off that day. I usually let it sit for a week, to show off the battle scars, but that granite sets like concrete.
I think 400 hp and 800 tq at the rear wheels will be obtainable on a 6.0. Especially if it ain't a daily driver anymore. I'm planning on 7 inches of lift and 37-40 inch tires with 5.13s and ARB f/r. Maybe I should go as low as possible with the 5.38s. Works out to be a 5% rpm difference, but with a truck that big it could use all the mechanical advantage available. 2006 XL F250 CC LB 4x4. Most importantly its gotta be able to tow...
make DARN sure you have a good air filter and its up out of harms way! diesels suck in air much harder than a gasser and can suck some nasty grit and dirty air in causing pre-mature engine wear!
also, if you have a turbo (never mentioned which diesel you have... (6.9, 7.3 IDI, 7.3PS, 6.0?) but if you sport a turbo it's much easier! run a tall gearset (3.55's or maybe even taller) and you can get some wicked wheelspin if you keep your turbo pushing!
ditto on fishy. Prefilters are a good idea too.
Also, 5.13's and 40's on a torque monster isnt really necessary for mud. Id go with close to stock ratio.
5.13s would gear it like a Towboss, so it is very close to stock. Most of that gear is correcting for the tire diameter. I have 3.73 now and wish it were lower.
Its an 06 and the head gaskets aren't as much of an issue since they lowered compression in 05. That number is obtainable with ~30 lbs of boost. If I float the heads I will upgrade to ARP studs and c-rings. When the tranny goes I will build it. I figured the low gears would help some.