air conditioner problem
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 25
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From: levittown, pa
air conditioner problem
ok so my air conditioner went in my 92 ranger and and i have a serp. belt so i can't just take it out. even if i got a shorter belt it wouldn't work because of where the tentioner is. is there any pulley i can get to take the place of the a/c or do i actually have to buy a new one
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,978
Likes: 1
From: Alvin, Texas.
Depends on how the AC went. Unless the compressor seized and shrapnel is in the system, I'd not DQ a repair just yet.
Which engine do you have and we can offer specific help. The 2.3, 3.slow and 4.0L all have non-AC belt options and the tensioner/idler pulley should not interfere. If you have a 2.9L, well, I don't have a diagram for that one...
Which engine do you have and we can offer specific help. The 2.3, 3.slow and 4.0L all have non-AC belt options and the tensioner/idler pulley should not interfere. If you have a 2.9L, well, I don't have a diagram for that one...
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 681
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From: SE Michigan
The air conditioner compressor on my 91 4.0 went out and I was able to bypass the compressor pulley with the serpentine belt for the no air conditioning application. All the other pulleys are the same on the 4.0. The Goodyear belt part number is 805K6 for the 4.0 engine. You may be able to do something similar for some of the other engines too.
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: levittown, pa
well i went home from school for easter break in my girlfriends car and i just got back and looked at my truck today. i turned it over and everything went smooth, well at least with the a/c. no smoke or anything, the wheel turned smoothly and no noises or anything, don't know what happened there. however the brake line that goes back to the rear blew a leak. now i just replaced the seperate lines traveling to each rear wheel. so are the lines all rotting or is this i problem with the cylinder or something that i need to look into now? i did look at the other lines the only one that looks bad up front in the driver side one for now anyway. i have the 2.9L engine for the answer to the earlier question. thanks guys
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,978
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From: Alvin, Texas.
You just might have a bad clutch coil or even a leak. A coil should be $90 and an hour of labor, while you may have an idea what a shop needs to do for leak repair. I did get the "you need whole AC system serviced, that's about $500", but the guy my friend had hired disappeared right to jail soon after, so you know how much I trusted that estimate--and my hunch was correct.
When my clutch coil went, it clicked to its delight then stopped one day while I wasn't paying attention, but you would want to check the fuses applicable to the system in the dash fuse box and the underhood box as well. This may be a simple fix.
As for the fluid leak..I just fixed this on the rear driver's side. The wheel cylinder probably got too much exercise from having overly worn shoes and drums. The lines were fine, since they are metal going to the wheel cylinders. A $2.69 rebuild kit from O'Reilly's did the trick for that specific part. You may have to pre-order, though. 13 years out of the rear brakes...not too shabby.
I'd not let the front go at all. Since the front brakes do the majority of the stopping...you get the idea.
When my clutch coil went, it clicked to its delight then stopped one day while I wasn't paying attention, but you would want to check the fuses applicable to the system in the dash fuse box and the underhood box as well. This may be a simple fix.
As for the fluid leak..I just fixed this on the rear driver's side. The wheel cylinder probably got too much exercise from having overly worn shoes and drums. The lines were fine, since they are metal going to the wheel cylinders. A $2.69 rebuild kit from O'Reilly's did the trick for that specific part. You may have to pre-order, though. 13 years out of the rear brakes...not too shabby.
I'd not let the front go at all. Since the front brakes do the majority of the stopping...you get the idea.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,907
Likes: 39
From: suburban atlanta
Pennsylvania road salt eat your brake lines, eh?
The compressor can be left in place with the factory belt if you are having lockup problems with the A/C. Just be sure to disconnect the clutch wire so that it does not apply when you have the system on 'defrost' or 'mix'. It will be just as if you didn't turn on the A/C.
tom
The compressor can be left in place with the factory belt if you are having lockup problems with the A/C. Just be sure to disconnect the clutch wire so that it does not apply when you have the system on 'defrost' or 'mix'. It will be just as if you didn't turn on the A/C.
tom
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: levittown, pa
well i think my a/c might just need a clutch, i mean it spins free and everything worked fine until it started smokin the other day. i get no cold air out of it, does this mean a clutch problem? either way i'm pretty mad cuz my brake line still need replaced and the line is tucked in the frame behind the gas tank and a bucnch of other stuff but o well i fix that before tomorrow. any ideas on the a/c? i don't use it so if i disconnect the power i should be fine right or no? let me know what i can do without payin a few hundred for a new a/c compressor. thanx
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: levittown, pa
ok so i'm driving my truck and the a/c compressor is making noises again and throwin sparks and the belt is burnin up. it seems like its engaging and disengaging for no reason and its tearin my belt apart. so i diconnected the wires so it has no power going to it, it got home with no problems. is there a way to by pass it and just take it off? i have the 4.0 6 cylinder, i said 2.9 earlier, that was my old truck lol. let me know what i can do
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