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mr rookie here with a 67 ranger w/352ci question(s). this is a restore project i obtained recently for near nothing. the 352 runs, but very rough...after doing many tricks(tune up)(and to no avail)i finally checked the compression on all cyls. #8 registers 0 compression. i pulled the valve cover off and found no broken springs, no visible rod damage, mostly dry-oil sludge(as if no flow), and when cranked they seem to move without any oddities/noises. what do you think?...broken ring(s), hole in piston head? eng has 160+k miles and doesnt smoke one bit.what do you think?
thanx, rog
You probably have a 360. If you can hook up an air line to the spark plug hole, listen to where the air is going. (Piston at TDC), may just have a valve with a piece broken off.
great idea! the vin lists a 352 but i suspect it's been changed. how do i find out if it's a 360 or not??? great truck and i wanna keep this engine. did u see my other question posted?
rog
Rog, The 67 would have come with a 352, the 360 came along later. Course in 35 years many engines could have been swapped in. A 428 or 390 basically looks the same as the 352, so you will want to measure the stroke. Remove one of the front spark plugs and place a white jacketed wire in the hole about 8-10" long. Place a Sharpie on the exhaust manifold and on the wire. Have a bud rotate the engine a couple of times with a socket on one of the pulleys, measure the the length of the mark. Post it here and we'll suggest which engine you likely have.
When you say zero compression is that litterly or just a figure of speech?
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.
If you have access to an air compressor, rotate the engine until you see that both valves are closed. Take that spark plug out and with a blow gun, blow air into the cylinder. It will either blow out through the exhaust, the carb, or from the crankcase.
thanx for the idea...i'll try the sharpie/wire trick tomorrow. and yes, i mean ZERO compression. at least that is what it registered on my brand new comp tester. all other cyls got around 120psi. someone mentioned a broken "piece" of the valve maybe causing the problem. i'm thinking of pulling the head(which i've never done before). is there anything i should be aware of in doing this. my older bro is coming over tomorrow to help so i dont trash it. i've done tons of "other" mechanic-type work on cars, but never torn down an engine...
The only thing difficult is that the Intake is EXTREMELY heavy- I think it was said to weigh 86 lbs. Although I have pulled one head before without pulling the intake, but it does take a little finesse.
hey, i tried the wire trick and the stroke is very very close in proximity to "3-7/8" inches. did this myself with the help of a 14" rachet extension(in place of the white wire), a med. cresent wrench to stabilize the extension, a sharpie and vise grips to hold it in place against the cresent wrench. and put tension on the extension so it wouldn't "wobble" in the hole. so i think i got a purdy accurate reading. what does 3-7/8 inches come out to?
thanx again,
rog
>The only thing difficult is that the Intake is EXTREMELY
>heavy- I think it was said to weigh 86 lbs. Although I have
>pulled one head before without pulling the intake, but it
>does take a little finesse.
>
>Very good idea to have some help.
>
>Good Luck-
>
>Joe
that's purdy heavy man! what about the valve rods...? wont some of them have tension on them from the above springs? and do they have their own respective holes they go into when putting it back? would make sense so they "sit" properly on the cam lobes. thing is i wont know what is wrong until i do this and see for myself!
thanx,
rog
All that will come out when you do the job. In order for the heads to come out, you have to remove the rocker rails and the pushrods. Make sure that when you remove the rods that you keep them in the order in which you took them out.
It'll all make a little more sense when you get ready to do the job and are able to look at how everything is put together.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 21-Sep-02 AT 01:25 PM (EST)]As FE427TP said, I bet it's a valve. I'd even bet it's an exhaust valve. Let us know.
Make sure you install hardened seats when you repair, if not already done so. Also, new valves are cheap. Stainless valves with bronze guides are more expensive, but still reasonable. Do both heads.