For some reason, the body of my first thread is unreadable. Don't know what the deal is there, so I'll try again.

I'm looking for the best ways to lower this truck.

Drop axle?
Longer steering arms?
New leaf springs?

The good 'ol LMC catalog has taken good care of me so far, but doesnt' have much in the way of modification parts. I've checked the MidFifty site with mixed results.

Thanks in advance.

(BTW, I did do a search, but couldn't find what I was looking for, so I hope this isn't one of those done-to-death subjects)

 

Well, this subject is pretty much road kill by now, but that's why it's so easy to give you an answer.

Which method to use depends on how low you want to go. Generally, the easiest first thing to do is to drop out leafs from the springs. Going to a total of 4 leafs will drop it quite a bit (about 3 inches, depending on how tired the springs are) and soften the ride nicely. If you want more, reverse eye main leaf will give another inch (or so). More than that, drop spindles is a good move. By that time, you're resting n the running boards.

Dramatic lowering does make the steering pretty funky. Others here will have good corrections for that situation.

 

Removing leaves sounds like a great start.

Thanks a lot Randy Jack, I appreciate that. I figured this one had probably been run into the ground.

I'll keep working on my search function skills, and appreciate anything anyone else has to add.

 

Sometimes the page loads onto your computer funny - I have had technical articles that were unreadable. Generally, if you try it again you can read it. Use the refresh button on your browser or hit the key F5.

If you do not command a refresh, your browser may just reload and display the page it has stored on your computer (the messed up one) and you will think the page continues to load bad.

One page was just totally messed up and no amount of retries helped. A couple of days later it loaded good. Must have been a problem with the server.

 

I am in the process or some spring removal on mine. On the front set starting from the bottom I removed #2, #4, and #6 per the mid-fifty catalog (and many threads here) instructions. I am also installing the poly spring liners (anti-squeek) between each leaf [also from mid-fifty]. I put in the degree shims to correct the alignment (I hope). I don't quite have the front completed yet, but its close. The passenger side is done. Drivers is bolted in, but not locked down yet.

The rear is next.

Its not the best way, but its cheap...errrr....ummmm....inexpensive.

I am following in Bobby's foosteps.

 

Get the MF print catalog, it's a goldmine of info.

 

Hey Brian_B,
You mentioned useing the degree shims on your front leafs...I put a reverse-eye mono on my front but hav'nt (yet) put the shims on. I hav'nt driven the truck yet to know how it will handle...but if you are droping the axle straight down (not down and forward) why do you need to correct the angle on that axle??
thanks, ed

 

Actually.........they were with the truck. I just cleaned them up, primed, painted, and installed them. I was told that I would need to put them in by one of the members who has posted in this thread.

Perhaps he can explain? I really do not know anything about front end alignment.

I guess I will find out how it handles. They would only take a few minutes to remove if its detrimental to handeling. Its just 4 U-bolts.

 

The degree shims are used in the alignment of the front steering - I forget which adjustment they are for, but you may or may not need them. Each truck is somewhat different.

Since if you take your truck to a car type alignment shop where all they can do is set your tow in, that is all the adjusting many people do on their front axles. Most of the time this works OK.

A regular truck shop has the tools and knowledge to bend your axle or what ever (including the shims) else it needs to set the axle/wheel alignment to factory specifications. This may not be needed, but if it is it can make a big differance on tire wear and driveability.

To me, it is worth the extra money they may charge to take it somewhere that is used to working on trucks.

 

Thanks y'all for all the info. Tons of help that is really appreciated.

 

When you remove leafs and/or use reversed eye springs, the arch of the spring is flatter which tilts the top of the axle more forward reducing the caster. adding tapered shims so that the axle top tilts back returns the caster to a proper setting. The OEM specs for caster is a little shy for highway driving as it is. There weren't many 70 mph roads in the 50s. I'd recommend adding enough shim to get at least 2 degrees and up to 4 degrees of caster especially if you do mostly expressway driving. You will need to use longer headed centerbolts on the springs so that the head still protrudes thru the shims and into the axle pocket to keep the axle from shifting. An axle can be bent to accomplish the caster increase, but shims are much easier and less likely to get screwed up and are a DIY project. Mid Fifty sells the shims and the longer headed centerbolts. I'd start with 1 shim on each side with leaf removal and two per side with reversed eye mains as well.
Too little caster and the wheels will not want to return to center after turning a corner, will cause wandering and tramlining as well as bump shimmy. Proper caster will remove the drunken monkey handling not caused by worn parts. I'd also recommend setting 1/16" toe IN.

 

Thanks Ax, as usual you are the man with the answer. I copied and printed your answer and placed it in my build note book. It is guys like you that make reading every post worthwhile.

 

Thanks *****, It's guys like you appreciating and finding useful what info I can provide that makes me keep doing it.

 

Thank you sir. I sort of understood, but only......sort of. Now when (if) I ever get mine back on the road, I will know if its not enough.

With everything cleaned, primed, and painted, popping a longer bolt and a thicker shim in will be easy if its needed.

 

What don't you understand, so I can explain in more detail, if you aren't clear there may be others who have the same questions.
The easiest way to find out if you don't have enough caster is to take it to an alignment shop or with a beam axle it's pretty easy to measure with a digital level or protractor level if you have a level place to park the truck while you measure. I can pretty much guarantee you'll need at least one shim.