18 Volts
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 60
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18 Volts
There was a post about trying to spin the starter faster for better starts. This winter I had encounter hard starting I ended up parking my diesel and drove my gasser. When it got warm I traced it down to a loose starter. Anyhow I was toying with the idea of getting a 6 volt golf cart battery to replace one of the 12 V and connecting them in a series to give me 18 volts. My thinking is that I could really get the sucker to crank really fast. I noticed being on the charger or while running the voltage goes up to 13.8 Volts . So 18Volts should be killer. Has anyone ever tried this or can it be done ? In my race car I run a turbo start 16 Volt to crank my BBC race engine
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Powell River B.C.
You might get away with boosting your start with 18V, but staedy supply of 18 v would overheat your starter quickly, may weld your relays shut, burn out any computers, fry your voltage regulator, burn out light bulbs,etc etc,---- nah, not a good idea.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Actually the problem would be with the batteries as soon as you tried to hook them up.
You can not have two different voltages on a DC parallel circuit.
The single battery would draw the dual batteries down, the dual batteries will overcharge the single battery.
By the time you started the engine they all would be below 12 volts.
But the alternator is only going to put out 13.8 volts, so the dual 18 volt batteries do not get charged back up fully. So when it is below freezing they both freeze and you are stuck with a dead batteries.
If you want more cranking amps, frame mount a third battery and parallel it with the other two.
If you want to run more volts to the starter, take a pocket full of cash down to the local heavy truck parts place and get a series parallel switch off a class 8 truck. Supplies 12 volts to everthing electrical, but when you hit the start button it sends 24 volts to the starter.
You can not have two different voltages on a DC parallel circuit.
The single battery would draw the dual batteries down, the dual batteries will overcharge the single battery.
By the time you started the engine they all would be below 12 volts.
But the alternator is only going to put out 13.8 volts, so the dual 18 volt batteries do not get charged back up fully. So when it is below freezing they both freeze and you are stuck with a dead batteries.
If you want more cranking amps, frame mount a third battery and parallel it with the other two.
If you want to run more volts to the starter, take a pocket full of cash down to the local heavy truck parts place and get a series parallel switch off a class 8 truck. Supplies 12 volts to everthing electrical, but when you hit the start button it sends 24 volts to the starter.
Last edited by Dave Sponaugle; Apr 13, 2006 at 10:09 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 577
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From: Peoria IL
I cant believe you need more cranking amps. I have two old farm and barn specials in my battery trays and they crank over fine. It has been well below 0 this winter too. I have a new alternator and with the truck shut off after a trip the batteries show 15-16 volts, and thats not using the POS stock voltmeter, but a good mulitimeter.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
The starter motor should be fine, but I do not think you will like the price for the series parallel switch. I have not priced one for years and they were over 400 dollars then.
Better and cheaper choice would be a Mitsubishi gear reduction starter. They really spin the engine over.
Better and cheaper choice would be a Mitsubishi gear reduction starter. They really spin the engine over.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Dryden, ON, Canada
I run a single 1000 CCA battery on my 6.9 with the mitsu starter, and, since I put in new glows in the middle of the winter, I haven't had so much as an issue, other than when I forgot to turn off my sattelite radio and didn't use the truck for a week....
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New User
Joined: Jan 2006
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like everyone said it would be easier to fix the problem by having good batteries, clean battery cables, a good set of berus, and no air in the fuel. If the starter and everything else check out ok, run some synthetic or 10w30 during the winter. I can start my truck not plugged in at -20F, anything under i wont drive it unless i can keep it running or find a place to plug it in. When i first bought my truck the starter spinned slow, cleaned the cables with a file and post cleaner, a little grease and made a huge difference, still look good.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
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I have 2 trucks, an 86 & 84 6.9 IDIs. Ive owned the 86[the beast] for 10 yrs & 84 [my pride & joy]for 2. Delco starters are crap, mits is only way to go. Ive had simular problems starting you have described over the years. I wish I new about this site back then! The advice you are getting is right on, get good batteries...check your cables...if you need to replace your starter-get a mits...test your glow plugs...have your alternater tested...plug your truck in at night...go with a "push button" for the glow plugs. If everything is working as it should, you wont have any problems starting your truck! And just for info...Ive just installed a solar charger from PulseTech, the military have used this technology for years, works great. lol
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2005
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After cleaning all connection and tightning my starter every thing is fine of course the warm weather is here. In anycase how are those starters on ebay for $100 any good are they the mit. starters
