My truck is a 1980 F350 single cab 4X4 with a 400 V8, C6 Transmission and no factory emissions. The truck has 45,000 original miles. It has had VERY little use over the last three years and several components needed replacing. I replaced most every external engine component once I got started workng on it in order to "freshen" everything before I put my truck back in to regular use. Every external component means the fuel pump, batteries, voltage regulator, solenoid, starter, carb, plugs and distributor. Everything is close to being ready to use the truck. Here is my problem and it is a big one to me. I DID NOT mark my old distributor before removing it and the engine is completely out of tune. I know how to turn the crankshaft, where the notch on thecrankshaft pully is located and where the tining tab is on the engine block. What I am asking for here is for someone who knows and has dealt with this problem before to tell me, step by step as though I am totally new to timing a Ford 400 V8, the exact steps necessary to set my new distributor, find TDC and get my engine timed and running smoothly. Again, please don't leave out a single step or what I might face in the process. I thank you all very much.

 

Thread moved to " 335 Series- 5.8/351M, 6.6/400, 351 Cleveland" tech forum. There should be more resources here to help with your question.

 

Hello- Welcome to FTE! Check out the list of tech forums we have on FTE. There is a wealth of information and expertise here to help you. There are a number of links in my sig below to help you also. Have fun!


Ahhhh, do you have a service manual for your truck? The process is specified well, sometimes even with pictures.

There are threads here where it has been discussed also.

 

take out the #1 spark plug, it's the first one on the passenger side. with your finger in the hole, turn the crank(tightening the bolt) to TDC at the timing marks. if you feel air pushing out of the hole you're there, if not go around again and see if you feel air coming out. after you feel air pressure in the plug hole and line up the marks to TDC, you are at #1 TDC firing position. with the rotor pointing straight back away from you, drop the distributor in and note which way and how much the rotor turns as it drops. don't worry if it doesn't drop all the way, but figure it will turn a slight bit more if it didn't.

you want the rotor to end up pointing at about the 1 o'clock position, or slightly to the right of straight back away from you.

so now lift the distributor back up a little bit and position the rotor to where you think is the right place for it to start turning to end up at the 1 o'clock position when it is all the way down. let the distributor back down. if it didn't set all the way, tap the solenoid with a screwdriver to bump the engine or you can use the key in the ignition. the bump of the engine will line up the oil pump driveshaft and let the distributor drop in. turn the engine all the way around to where you were, #1 TDC firing position. when the timing marks line up (you can use up to 10* before TDC if you want) see if your rotor is pointing to the 1 o'clock position. if not, lift up the dizzy and make the needed adjustment, remembering to allow for the turn of the rotor caused by the angle cut of the drive gear. tap the key again if you need to get it to set down. turn the engine around to #1 TDC firing position and see where she sets. remember that it takes 2 revolutions of the crank to make one revolution of the distributor, if you only turn the crank around 1 time you'll be at #1 TDC but at the end of the exhaust stroke and the beginning of the intake stroke. this is called being "180* out" when setting up the dizzy. the engine will sound like it's puking and throw fire ***** into the sky if you try to start it this way. if you like having eyebrows stay away from the carb.

 

What a coincidence, I have a 1980 F-350 Ranger 4x4 400 with a C6 (Explorer B package) standard cab - extended cab and crew cab were not an option - trailer tow and snow plow packages, full factory gauges and no emissions and no air. I bought my truck in Virginia when it was just over one year old with under 14,000 miles, and other than driving it from Virginia to Utah, the truck is only used to haul my boat to Lake Powell a couple time a year and to get around after a big Utah snow storm. It has never been a daily driver and has now just turned 88,000 miles. Frankly, unless you have owned the truck since the early 80's, I'd be very sceptical about the 45,000 original miles showing on the odometer as most of the items you replaced should have been in good working order at 45 k miles.

grclark351 gave you the proper distributor installation procedure, but if the A.I.R. pump and EGR have been removed as you've stated, you would be well advised to recurve the Duraspark II distributor before putting it back in, otherwise the engine will ping noticably unless you want to run premium gas in a 8.1 to 1 compression engine.

 

Thank you grclark351. I was 90% certain of the procedure, but wanted an experienced opinion to clear up any doubts. I appreciate you taking your time to offer your help to me. To the post made by pknute: Thank you for your comments. I am certain the mileage on my 1980 F350 is correct. I replaced all of the external engine components not because they all had failed, but to refresh these 26 year old parts since the truck will be put to some use after being used so little over its life. I bought this truck from the original owner, an older gentleman from California, who was a long haul Semi driver. He was rarely home and rarely drove the F350 that I bought from him. Most people, who are not current on vehicle body styles, think my F350 is not more than four or five years old because of the condition. Again, I thank you, grclark351, for your detailed help. God Bless and Semper Fi

 

Did you remove the A.I.R. pump and EGR, etc., after you bought the truck or did the original California owner do it? If the original owner, depending upon when the equipment was removed, that might explain the very low miles on a 1980 F-350 since it would never pass California's strict emissions requirements and would not qualify for vehicle registration to make it legal to drive on any California roadway.

You really should create a photo gallery to show off your looks almost new, 45,000 mile 1980 F-350 4x4 Ranger.