Air Conditioning
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Joined: Mar 2006
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Air Conditioning
Hi,
The a/c in this 350 econoline is completely empty. Anyone know how much R-134A I need to put in it? It is definatly R-134A, and has front and rear AC. Any suggestions to check for leaks also?
Thanks
Jay
The a/c in this 350 econoline is completely empty. Anyone know how much R-134A I need to put in it? It is definatly R-134A, and has front and rear AC. Any suggestions to check for leaks also?
Thanks
Jay
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 690
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From: Sweden
A system which has a leak needs to be repaired.
A system which has lost pressure must be fully flushed and evacuated, or the moisture may corrode the system and cause very expensive damage later.
Flushing is also necessary if the failed component could have introduced debris in the system.
Usually the coolant capacity is listed under the hood. You must also be sure there is lubricant oil included! Really this is not amateur work. You could hurt yourself or create serious damage to the system fairly easily. And if you fail to locate and fix the leak it's somewhat pointless to begin with.
A system which has lost pressure must be fully flushed and evacuated, or the moisture may corrode the system and cause very expensive damage later.
Flushing is also necessary if the failed component could have introduced debris in the system.
Usually the coolant capacity is listed under the hood. You must also be sure there is lubricant oil included! Really this is not amateur work. You could hurt yourself or create serious damage to the system fairly easily. And if you fail to locate and fix the leak it's somewhat pointless to begin with.
Last edited by Dannym; Apr 12, 2006 at 05:03 PM.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,040
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From: Maryville
I've been here, a previous van was converted to 134a, which eventually ate the seals that weren't designed for it, I sold it to a friend because I wasn't going to dump money into it. You can't add the coolant, it must be put on a machine that pulls a vacuum on it, help find the leak, and allows the fluid to go it. See, a leak not only lets it out, but fills it with air, it must be pulled out to allow room for the coolant, as the system is sealed, or supposed to be, no room to pump in if it already is full. It was front and rear AC, held 30 lbs, pretty costly, unless you have a friend to vac it.
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 690
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From: Sweden
The o-rings need to be changed out, the dryer bottle should be changed, the system then needs to be flushed, evacuated, and refilled with R134a and a compatible oil.
A leak will not allow air or moisture in unless the system has gone dry and lost pressure completely. However, since you're completely blind as to how much lubricant and coolant is remaining, it's still a good idea to change it out. It's impossible to repair any leaks without opening up the system too. Also disintegrating components can put debris in the system which can clog the dryer or chew up the compressor.
The R134a itself is just fine for the system, although the cooling capacity is reduced. I've heard that and I believe it. It's not unacceptable, but somewhat marginal.
A leak will not allow air or moisture in unless the system has gone dry and lost pressure completely. However, since you're completely blind as to how much lubricant and coolant is remaining, it's still a good idea to change it out. It's impossible to repair any leaks without opening up the system too. Also disintegrating components can put debris in the system which can clog the dryer or chew up the compressor.
The R134a itself is just fine for the system, although the cooling capacity is reduced. I've heard that and I believe it. It's not unacceptable, but somewhat marginal.
