Doing ball joints, what else should I replace?
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Senior User
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From: Houston
Doing ball joints, what else should I replace?
Hey all,
I'm going to have my 97 Expy (2x4 with 150k miles) apart to replace upper and lower ball joints and shocks. What else should I replace while it's torn apart? I've read that tie rod ends should be replaced with energy suspension components but I'm not sure if this is inner/outer ends, and I can't find any info on the kit. Should I replace the Pitman arm as well? Swaybar endlinks? Any bushings?
I figure I might as well do as much as possible while I have the truck torn apart.
Thanks in advance,
Russell
I'm going to have my 97 Expy (2x4 with 150k miles) apart to replace upper and lower ball joints and shocks. What else should I replace while it's torn apart? I've read that tie rod ends should be replaced with energy suspension components but I'm not sure if this is inner/outer ends, and I can't find any info on the kit. Should I replace the Pitman arm as well? Swaybar endlinks? Any bushings?
I figure I might as well do as much as possible while I have the truck torn apart.
Thanks in advance,
Russell
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Senior User
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From: Houston
Oreilly's lists them as part number ES3364T (Moog inner tie rod end)
http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/Produ...riptionId=2993
http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/Produ...riptionId=2993
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2004
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When I did the job your describing, I replaced:
inner and outer tierod ends, lower ball joints, upper control arms, idler arm, and the pitman arm. As long as you have the right tools, the job isn't very hard. And that is coming from someone who had never done that kind of work before
As long at your going to be under there, you might as well as replace it all. The parts aren't very expensive to the peace of mind that the new stuff can give you is well worth it IMHO.
inner and outer tierod ends, lower ball joints, upper control arms, idler arm, and the pitman arm. As long as you have the right tools, the job isn't very hard. And that is coming from someone who had never done that kind of work before
As long at your going to be under there, you might as well as replace it all. The parts aren't very expensive to the peace of mind that the new stuff can give you is well worth it IMHO.
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From: Houston
That sounds about like what I was thinking, also the sway bar end links/bushings. I figured if I'm under there I might as well get it all. Are there any special tools associated with the Pitman arms or Idler arm? Those are the only 2 I haven't seen any documentation on.
Thanks,
Russell
Thanks,
Russell
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 511
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From: Fort Worth, TX
Idler arms center links sare also called inner tierod end. I found this out when searching for parts for my old Explorer. If they are worn, which they probably are, the steering will be SOOOOO much better once you do it all. I doubt you will need a new pitman arm. Not really any moving parts, unless it's different on our trucks. Just get it to an alignment shop right away.
I would also look into getting new bushings for the contol arm swaybar. Just get the polyurethane and you will be very impressed. It will drive better than new.
Edit:
Oh yeah, spray the heck out of everything with penetrating oil too. You don't want to be fighting with the rust once you get under there. I ended up using a propane torch on some of them to loosen things up. It was bad being a 94 and never having been replaced.
I would also look into getting new bushings for the contol arm swaybar. Just get the polyurethane and you will be very impressed. It will drive better than new.
Edit:
Oh yeah, spray the heck out of everything with penetrating oil too. You don't want to be fighting with the rust once you get under there. I ended up using a propane torch on some of them to loosen things up. It was bad being a 94 and never having been replaced.
Last edited by slenser; Apr 12, 2006 at 09:47 AM.
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I changed my pitman arm on my 97 expy but only because i was changing out the steering box. You shouldn't have to change it out at all but if you do be prepared for some work. it took me 2 hours to get it out and only about 2 min to get the bolts off. it gets stuck on to the steering box and you have to use a puller to get it off. only problem is the pitman arm puller you get at the store won't fit in the little space they give you to remove it so if you don't have to change it i would advise not to worry about.
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From: Houston
slenser,
Good to know about the inner tie rod ends. I didn't realize they were also called the center links. I am planning on replacing the swaybar endlinks and bushings, but will be going with Moog Rubber. I don't want the increased road energy transfered to the truck from urethane bushings. I installed all polyurethane bushings on my 77 Vette and the ride is considerably more "bumpy". Certainly more responsive, but I also feel much more road vibration. Great for the Vette but not for the Expy and it's intended use.
Grid069,
I need to double check the service record because I *thought* the service center indicated the Pitman arm needed to be replaced. I'd prefer not to replace it if I don't have to.
98expeditionXLT,
Alignment is definitely planned immediately afterward.
Good to know about the inner tie rod ends. I didn't realize they were also called the center links. I am planning on replacing the swaybar endlinks and bushings, but will be going with Moog Rubber. I don't want the increased road energy transfered to the truck from urethane bushings. I installed all polyurethane bushings on my 77 Vette and the ride is considerably more "bumpy". Certainly more responsive, but I also feel much more road vibration. Great for the Vette but not for the Expy and it's intended use.
Grid069,
I need to double check the service record because I *thought* the service center indicated the Pitman arm needed to be replaced. I'd prefer not to replace it if I don't have to.
98expeditionXLT,
Alignment is definitely planned immediately afterward.