rubing compond
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 195
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From: Wilton, Ca
rubing compond
My 77 F250 is in farly good shape,But the paint is some what Oxidized. I tryed buffing it out and it did come back a little.
My question is what is the best steps in doing this? I know it is going to be a tough job so why not do it right.I do have a buffer (DA)to use,But had better luck by hand.
Thanks Don
My question is what is the best steps in doing this? I know it is going to be a tough job so why not do it right.I do have a buffer (DA)to use,But had better luck by hand.
Thanks Don
Admom
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 9,414
Likes: 201
From: Silver Springs
Try putting some Liquid Glass on it. Its a polish that you put on by hand and leaves a protective coating. I used it on the hood of our KW about 3 months ago and it still looks just as good when I did it. It wasn't badly oxidized, so I caught it in time. Otherwise, a new paint job would have been our only other option.
Do it all by hand. I'd be afraid of damaging what paint you have left with a buffer.
Good luck and let us know how things turn out.
Do it all by hand. I'd be afraid of damaging what paint you have left with a buffer.
Good luck and let us know how things turn out.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
There's typically three steps to paint resto.
1. Clean
2. Polish
3. Wax
You need to get that oxidation off before you polish. I like TR3, but you can use a similar product. When you clean the paint, you want to use the least abrasive cleaner as necessary. It doesn't take long to get down to metal with a heavy abrasive. As mentioned above, going by hand is a safer bet.
After the oxidation is gone, you can come back with a polish and finish with wax. I like carnuaba wax. Polimers can leave a coating that you can't get through if you ever need to work on the paint. Carnuaba wax will strip off as needed. Depending on your environmnet, I'd wax 2-4 times per year. You should be safe to do that with the buffer.
It's a lot of work, but well worth the results. I'm buying a 1979 F-250 that needs this same treatment. I can't wait to see the finished product. Don't forget to take before, during and after photos so that you can memorialize your work.
Good luck!
-Honorable
1. Clean
2. Polish
3. Wax
You need to get that oxidation off before you polish. I like TR3, but you can use a similar product. When you clean the paint, you want to use the least abrasive cleaner as necessary. It doesn't take long to get down to metal with a heavy abrasive. As mentioned above, going by hand is a safer bet.
After the oxidation is gone, you can come back with a polish and finish with wax. I like carnuaba wax. Polimers can leave a coating that you can't get through if you ever need to work on the paint. Carnuaba wax will strip off as needed. Depending on your environmnet, I'd wax 2-4 times per year. You should be safe to do that with the buffer.
It's a lot of work, but well worth the results. I'm buying a 1979 F-250 that needs this same treatment. I can't wait to see the finished product. Don't forget to take before, during and after photos so that you can memorialize your work.
Good luck!
-Honorable
