Hi all,
First off, let me say thanks again for all the help you have given on my other post. My problem is that in my 66 my brake lights and turn signals front and rear do not work. My tail lights work fine and i have replaced bulbs, checked fuses and am still confused. There is power before and after the fuse for this circuit. I have replaced the brake switch and 1 of the flashers. I am not very good with electrical so my truck sits and waits. It has a newer ignition switch. Any help would be great, if you need more info let me know.
Kris

 

It's probably your turn signal switch inside the sterring column. Same thing happened to my 65 and I got a new one from Carpenter. Your brake light curcuit runs through this switch, a little confusing at first but if you think about it, it makes sense. John or the other Ford Masters here would know a bit more about this.

 

How do I get at that, do I have to remove the steering wheel? I'm stoked about this one, I was about to start getting the stuff to rewire the entire truck.
Kris

 

WARNING!
DON'T PULL THE SWITCH WIRES OUT! Not yet, anyway. Read on for an explanation.

Yes, you have to pull the steering wheel off to change the turn signal switch. Removing the old switch is easy, installing it can be a bear.
You will have 2 connectors for the column wires down below. Note which color wire goes where into each of the column wire connectors' plug holes, and make a sketch of each connector, and where each wire goes. This will help you immensely to re-install the wires in the correct sequence. (Don't worry about the other side, the truck harness side of the connectors.)
Next, remove each column wire from the connector. Each pin has a little spring type clip on the metal end; this keeps the wire from backing out of the connector. Push on on the clip with a pointed something to release the pin, and let it come out. Dental tools work really great for this; a paper clip can work well too.

The biggest problem you will face is threading the new wires back down through the column - which is why the warning first.
BEFORE you pull the old wires out, note how they come out through a thin slit in the column. You will need to figure out a way to strongly affix or tape two strings or wires to at least one of the old wires. These strings or wires (I would use wire) will be used to pull the new wires back down through the column.

Remove the horn ring, turn signal lever and steering wheel. (Before removing the steering wheel, make a mark on it and the center shaft, so you can put it back on exactly as you took it off.) Note how the wires are threaded around things inside the collar; a sketch will help here. Next, remove the screws holding the switch. Now, pull the switch and the wires out. Make sure your pull strings or wires come through with them.

Now, compare the colors of the wires of the new and old switches. Make sure the same color wire goes to the same spot or connection on the new and the old. If the colors are not the same, adjust accordingly. If they are the same, that will be great help.

Now, tape the new wires to the pull strings or wires. The bundle cannot be too thick, or it will not go through the slot at the bottom. It will be better to make it wide and flat if you can, rather than thick.

Pull the wires back though, seat and install the new switch, insert the pins in the right holes, and reassemble the rest.

Good luck!

 

Can I Add a little something to this discourse?

1st don't fear Automotive Electrical work, conquer it!

2nd I've learned when I am for sure about to do this procedure, to use a multiple clove hitch type knot around my "Bad Switches wires", then I cut the plug end loose with the connector plug still in place.

After I use pull string to re-insert a new switches' wires thru column slot, I take cut off end & depress pins etc & insert correct new wire into respective socket as I go along. I do it 1 at a time , Because if I cross it up & have no reference to find my mistake. . . . well ya see where this is going donch?

3rd Best thing I've found as a pull string is a nylon Masons' Dry Line [string brick & block Masons use to keep their work straight]

Thanks for letting me tag on BP66, BTW it's a Great Answer U gave.


FBp

 

Thanks guys!!! Told my wife about this and she asked when I was going to start. I'll let you know how it goes. This place ROCKS!!
Kris

 

Well, the only answer I have to that is: Why didn't you tell me about the clove hitch ahead of time! No wonder it took me so long to pull the wires through!

 

Umm, i wasn't a very good boy scout, how do you make a clove hitch?
Kris

 

I have a receiver hitch on my truck, what is a clove hitch??

lgtwood, I have found one of the best and least expensive tools for working with electrical issues is an ice pick looking tester. This device looks like an ice pick with a bulb inside the handle and a wire with a clip coming out the end.
With this tester you can attach the clip to any metal chassis/body part not painted and with the tip of the pick to any wire not covered with insulation and if the wire is hot the bulb will light up. You can use the sharp end of the probe to get through the insulation if needed. Since the vehicle has only 12 volts, you don't have to worry about blowing the bulb. Some of the better units have a lamp that will stand any spike that could occure. You can start at the battery, touch the clip to the negative post, and the tip to the positive side, the lamp should light up.

I usually start at the furtherest point, and keep working forward until I find power, and then you can start working on resolving the issue that is causing power not to pass through.

Good luck and have fun

John

 

Clove hitch is when a line, rope or string has a loop [or series of loops] in a half twist, around an object, which tighten as either end of the line-rope-string is pulled on. This tightening allows the object [a bundle of wires for example] to be pulled without much damage or kinking to it.

The beauty of a clove hitch is, since it is only a half twist loop,instead of full blown, loop over & thru type knot. Clove hitch loosen or relax when pulling stops or reverses making the line-rope-string easily detached from the object[s] being pulled.

With the wires, they are not doubled over, or bent & kinked or otherwise distorted or damaged as they are pulled thru things like [in this case] the steering column slot.

My experience with Weaving & Plating cables & rope, making chokers, using spreaders & otherwise tying hook-ups is Not from Boyscouting, it's from Rigging and Iron Working.

FBp

 

There is a tool for removing wire connectors from the plastic plugs. Looks like regular tiny screw driver except there is a tube on the shaft that slides into the plug and depresses the tang on the wire connector and allows the wire to slip out. These are great if you want to remove and reuse the switch. There are two plugs in the steering column wiring . The big one is for the turn signals and the small one is for the stoplight. Seperate the stoplight connector and jump wire across it. If the system has power and the stoplight switch, wiring and bulbs are good the stoplight should come on. Make this test before you yank your truck apart. Also Sears gas a good cheap and easy to use multimeter. Worth every dime! IMHO!l

 

Good call William, but the other type is better for idiots like me, nothing to turn on or off, or select. One of those is or it aint deals.

John

 

Thanks agin fellas. I am heading out right now to do Williams suggestion before I order the part. I already have a Fluke multi-meter from when I took an electronics course, I still can't troubleshoot. Any way, I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
Kris