Problem i have been having is low boost readings on 80 and 120 setting. Mainly 120 setting. Stock i hit 17 psi rock solid, 40 i was hitting 22-3, 80, 24-5 at most, 120 holding 24 ...THATS IT. So obviously there was a problem. No codes at all being thrown. So i assumed boost leaks. And just recently dynoed and did 303 and 560tq and it was kinda low....but in reality it was pretty good since it was only 24 psi lol But before i did that i unplugged the red line going to wg just to see if any difference. Well there was a HUGE difference. Stock is 21 now, 40 is 24-5, 80 is 26-7, 120 is 28-31. This is how its supposed to be accoding to Jody. I have set the overboost code in the 40 setting...whereas before i could only set it in 120 for a very long pull. Now in 120 its instant. But i have adjusted the regulator so it does not throw that anymore. So its pretty obvious that my WG is very weak and bleeding off boost as fast as i build it ,never allowing me to achieve the boost i should be hitting. So what i want to know...is running with the line unplugged the "free, leave it alone" fix? ( i dont really like the idea of it since due to backpressure, that and taking away PCM ability to control it) Or is getting a Banks Big Head actuator or Dieselsites version the "right" option to go with to fix this so that i can plug line back in and achieve same results? So just looking for feedback from experts or anyone who has these 2 products as to what is best path to take to keep these numbers and fix problem. Before i spend the money.

TIA
Tony

 

Tony,
If staying with a totally stock turbo then going with the Dieselsite Turbomaster is probably your best bet IMO. More precise control of the wastegate is going to optimize your tunes.However, these elevated boost levels will eventually take it's toll on your turbo in longevity. If you don't tow
often it shouldn't be an issue. Opening up the exhaust housing to a 1.00 A/R
housing min. will help keep EGT's down and promote longer life with your turbo.LIPDhas a nice 1.00 A/Rhousing for $400
Nut

 

Nut,
Yeah for now i am prob staying with totally stock turbo....(car is taking the money away this time of year lol) But i was thinking the Turbomaster was best bet too...and cheaper. And in 120 setting i am rarely ever in...just did it for dyno ....and then after low numbers starting investigating and then saw the low boost. So just trying to fix it...just to know its fixed persay. I like knowing i have everything the way it should be. And i do Tow ALOT. I would only prob tow in 40 setting though...maybe 80 if on flat highway use. And probably would even plug n red line if i did just in case ( if towing before i get the turbomaster) I was def thinkning about a larger exhaust housing......is theirs still wastegated or non wastegated? But in the end to get a ats housing ( to get rid of surge the right ,best way) and larger exhaust housing.....my as well just get a new turbo at that point since price is getting close. So any advice you give me for stock turbo and ww setup would be appreciated. Do you know anyone who has had experience with the turbomaster?

 

I just read of a FTE member who put in the Turbo master and really likes it.ru1234 is the member i believe so u can PM him with more questions. The unit at LIPD is non wastegate.Shopdiesel carries some 1.15non wastegated unit too.
http://www.shopdiesel.com/index.cfm/...ct_id/1299.htm
http://www.longislandperformancedies...0-%20Turbo.htm
Nut

 

i can't wait to break my new turbo bearings in so i can open her up! first drive (12mi) was this morning in the rain with the new van turbo. didnt take it over 15psi, cant until it has about 200mi on it to break them in. it builds boost alot slower but once it comes on, it just piles on. i was sliding uphill all over the road (straight) with just some throttle finesse and still only at 15psi.

wastegate, hah.

 

Kris,
U gotta be feeling good about that install ehh? Fixed oil leak(i hate anything leaking ) and nice turbo upgrades to boot.I think Hans and Frans would consider u a pumped up dude!
Nut

 

it's great to hop out after a minute and not see a quarter sized spot of oil on the ground from just a minute. i can't wait to be able to part in the driveway without leaving spots. you can see the 6 or 7 places i've parked, all the same spots the oil has been leaking from, like a template.

 

Nut,
thanks for all the info and research. But in order to run a non wastegated exhaust housing like the ones you linked .....are there any other mods/parts i would need to do? This is keeping the rest of turbo stock of course. And what would u recommend....1.00 or 1.15 a/r?

 

Talk to LIPD and tell them what u want exactly because when he talked to me
he said the 1.00 housing was wastegated but the picture shows it to be non-wastegated. Not speaking from direct experience but much research on the topic as i'll be changing my housing to 1.00 A/R soon because i tow a 9000lb TT
camper. This housing gives u quick spool-up and equalizes drive pressures.Your
compressor housing is a 1/00 A/R. I have my stock wastegate spring tensioned down pretty hard and with the WW,TAG I,II and a 1.00 exhaust housing i'm expecting my turbo to last a long time.I've never experienced any surge/stall whatsoever.The TAG's seem to quiet the engine noise somehow and add low end hp/tq(haven't got dyno proof YET).Using syn oil and letting your turbo cool to 300*min. before shutdown goes along way too.
Heck, i just saw a reman stock turbo on Evil Bay for $157. New everything!
If u tow alot check with JTharvey too as he just totally mod'ed his stock turbo for under $1000 and has all kinds of info.
Hope this helps
Nut