Help a noob out.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2006
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Help a noob out.
I was hoping to introduce myself better, but got a problem with my truck. I just bought a 67 f100 with 352 auto. Brought it home and I thought I'd give it a quick tune-up since it didn't look like it's been done in a long time. Ended up having to put a new battery in it. Couldn't get it to crank, which I traced back to the park switch. After fixing that, when to start it and I heard a click and nothing. Didn't sound like the selenoid, more like a breaker.
I have no power going anywhere, no lights, radio, etc. Before I start swapping parts, any ideas of where to start? Voltage regulator? Alternator? Everything worked before the battery, just wouldn't hold enough juice to start more than a couple of times.
Thanks!
I have no power going anywhere, no lights, radio, etc. Before I start swapping parts, any ideas of where to start? Voltage regulator? Alternator? Everything worked before the battery, just wouldn't hold enough juice to start more than a couple of times.
Thanks!
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
Likes: 6
From: Coal country
Welcome to FTE! You have come to one of the best places for help and support. Be sure to check out the advertisers!
As to your problem, it sounds like a battery post arced between the post and the clamp.
Try this first: Push down on each battery clamp, and twist it slightly while pushing down. If one of them moves, check for electrical power at the lights. If electricity is restored, try starting it again.
If this restores power, take your clamps off and clean them well. Clean the posts as well, and make sure the clamps are tight. Change the clamps or the cables (or both) if necessary.
When you have an arc like this (if that is indeed what happened), the heat melts some of the lead, and creates lead oxide. Lead oxide acts as an insulator rather than a conductor, cuttong off the electrical power.
This is why you need to make sure the battery clamps are tight.
Now if that didn't work, post back. There are other possibilites, but this is by far the most probable cause.
As to your problem, it sounds like a battery post arced between the post and the clamp.
Try this first: Push down on each battery clamp, and twist it slightly while pushing down. If one of them moves, check for electrical power at the lights. If electricity is restored, try starting it again.
If this restores power, take your clamps off and clean them well. Clean the posts as well, and make sure the clamps are tight. Change the clamps or the cables (or both) if necessary.
When you have an arc like this (if that is indeed what happened), the heat melts some of the lead, and creates lead oxide. Lead oxide acts as an insulator rather than a conductor, cuttong off the electrical power.
This is why you need to make sure the battery clamps are tight.
Now if that didn't work, post back. There are other possibilites, but this is by far the most probable cause.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Mar 2006
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Guess I should have spent a little more time cleaning the connectors (yes, I hear the laughing). The + was pretty bad and I will probably replace it. Still won't start. I think the contacts on the stearing colomn switch needs cleaned. Are these known to go bad? Wiring looks OK.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
Likes: 6
From: Coal country
OK, try this on the starter solenoid. The solenoid is the round electrical device near the battery; it has 4 wires, 2 large and two small on it. One large comes from the + battery post, and is bolted to the side; the other large one is also bolted to a stud on the other side, and goes to the starter.
The two small ones are in the front. The small one closest to the battery is the wire coming from the starter key.
To safely do this test, MAKE SURE the truck is in Park.
Take a screwdriver, and connect the large stud with the battery cable to the nearest small stud; short the two out. It may spark, but it won't hurt you.
If the solenoid clicks and the engine turns over, then there is another issue, such as it may be in the wiring harness.
If it doesn't, then we need to look further. Notice if you get any spark or not when you short out the two.
The two small ones are in the front. The small one closest to the battery is the wire coming from the starter key.
To safely do this test, MAKE SURE the truck is in Park.
Take a screwdriver, and connect the large stud with the battery cable to the nearest small stud; short the two out. It may spark, but it won't hurt you.
If the solenoid clicks and the engine turns over, then there is another issue, such as it may be in the wiring harness.
If it doesn't, then we need to look further. Notice if you get any spark or not when you short out the two.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Mar 2006
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Checked the solenoid like you said above, it turned. Traced the wiring back to a loose connection. Engine turns with key now, but won't start. Carb is getting gas, but I don't think I'm getting spark. Checked wires on distributor and coil. Any ideas?
Thanks for your help this far banjopicker!
Thanks for your help this far banjopicker!
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 25
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From: houston
I have a 69 ranger and when I bought it I got in and tried starting it. Nothing. It turned out be that I had to push up and out on the gear shifter. It acted almost like a kill switch. I have no idea why, but when I did that it started like a charm. I still do this even now.
Probably not whats happening with you, but you never know!
Probably not whats happening with you, but you never know!
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New User
Joined: Mar 2006
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There's a switch located on the bottom of the streering colomn (top side). It has 4 wires going to it and a stud that is connected to the gear selector. I had tweak mine a little. It is a kill switch to make sure you're in park when starting. I found it while I was trying to get it to start - otherwise I'd probably still be playing with the shifter to get it to start too.
Problem know is the engine turns but doesn't start.
Problem know is the engine turns but doesn't start.
