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I need to repair some dings and a crease in the fender of my truck. I have some hammers and dollies but need some advice on the proper technique for doing this kind of work. I couldn't find any real helpful sites on the web, can anyone give me some advice or point me a the right direction? Thanks.
I like the idea of the local JC also. However, I saw an article in DRIVE mag this month about a three-day hands-on class in the LA area. It is taught by the owner of Sunchaser Tools. Check out the article. I think the course runs about $350. Good luck Jag
A stud welder would be a good tool for what it sounds like you are doing, assuming its a somewhat shallow crease and small dents. Or if you have access to the backside, then small dents can be hammered out supporting off dolly on the other side, or if its just a tiny one, pick hammered out.Anything larger you want to reverse the damage. Last in first out. If you can look at the dent and visualize how it occured it should help you know where to start. A typical straight on dent you would start bumping out the perimeter of the dent working your way in, and then finish by supporting from behind with a dolly where the dent you worked out is, and hammering off dolly on the very edge of the dent. The hammer should be held lightly in your hand and allowed to spring back off the metal. Hammering on dolly isn't usually done alot, other then finishing of dents and bulges. Anything which is more serious and where the metal has been stretched you have to understand how to shrink. If you just hap hazzardly go hammering on a fairly large dent without taking the proper steps, then you can end up using a lot of filler and never get it worked out right. The old school bodymen will hammer and pick and file to they need only primer and filler. I get things close myself, but am not worried about using a thin coat of filler. Metal working is really something you need to be there to help someone with, and show them hands on. You could search for terms such as buckle, stretched metal, shrinking, workhardening, crease, tension areas, ect. and maybe you will get some results that will help learn about these things. Or grab some spare sheetmetal, and try to duplicate what you will be doing and practice on that working it out. http://metalmeet.com/ would be a good place for you to visit, and they have classes too I believe.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I looked at the courses at the two local JC's and neither of them have classes in autobody work. The Covell option sounds like the best and actually his place is only about 2 hurs drive from where I live so maybe I can even get some hands on experience. I had no idea initially that it was going to be so hard to learn how to do this kind of work. I gues it's just beginners stupidity!
Most people don't realize that seawulff, or the price of materials, the amount of hours and sanding put in. You can get frustrated when so many people think you should be able to fix there 89 tempo for $500 and cut out and replace a bunch of rust, fix a bunch of dents, strip paint cause theres is peeling and spend hour upon hour prepping for a good looking paint job. Hey maaco will paint it cheap. Its not all that hard to really do with dedication and patience and hands on learning, some will grasp all of it quicker then others. Small dents ain't to hard to fix, but when there is bodylines involved, the metal has been stretched, or near folded sections that want to hold it all in it is a little more tricky and someone can really make it unfixable going about it the wrong way. If its only small dents, grab some spare sheetmetal and pound in some dents and working them out the best you can till you can get in class. Nowadays many shops are mainly parts replacers and don't do too much metalworking, so learning from someone who has been around for awhile may be your best bet. There has been a shortage of techs which may explain why your local schools didn't have classes. Years ago I wanted to go take an advanced course my boss was going to pay for, which taught more frame pulling, paint matching stuff, but not enough students applyed to run the class. You can thank the insurance industry and there are better paying ways to make a living, with less work. Good luck.
Last edited by kenseth17; Apr 8, 2006 at 11:13 AM.
Yo Seawulff - not stupidity at all rather just a lack of craftsmen/agreeable shops. While there are still some very good crafts people around the days of being allowed to go to a body shop (or welding,machine,paint etc etc etc) and "help out" to learn are just about gone unless you personally know the owner of the shop. Thank the lawyers and insurance people and liability concerns for a start. Also thank the time factor - unless it's a truly minor ding most shops find it more cost effective to replace the part or panel rather than try to actually repair it and sometimes guys with the skills are hard to find.
Stuff in your favor - our truck bodies lend themselves well to repair. The metal is thick enough and soft enough that you can work it and as such it's a good learning ground. If you can find an agreeable shop and arrange to hang out and help out that's probably the best way. If not then there is good info available from the sources already mentioned. Big thing is not to be afraid to jump in and give it a shot - recommend finding an old fender or other body panel that you can "play" with before you jump on your own project.
In that regard I am truly fortunate to have a friend who has allowed me (freely and with full knowledge that I'm a beginner - I didn't say he was real sharp...but he is trusting!) to work on his Ch_ _ _ project and for that I am grateful. His price is right - free - and I get to practice with my technique and tools. I've not done terminal damage to his stuff but I can guarantee that when I get started on my body I'll do better - as has been mentioned, there's just no substitute for actually using the tools and getting a feel for this. Best to you!
Thanks for the kind words of support. I sent to Eastwood for a book that they advertise which is called the beginners book to metal bumping. I am not a clutz so maybe with some practice and patience-I'm not to good with the latter-I can fix the old girl up.
I got a good case of beginners stupidity myself. Its taken me 6 months to get the cab ready to paint, but I finally got it painted and now have to resand and repaint due to dust problems. I guess I will have to build a paint booth onto my garage now. At least that the reason I am giving everyone. It's not that I really just wanted one.
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