Brake advice needed
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Brake advice needed
I am going to be replacing the Rotors and pads on our 03, Excursion 4Wd. Is there anything I should know before I attempt this? I.E; special tools, removing rotors ect. Any advice would be appreciated. TY. 
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: Callaway, MD
If you've done brakes before, then you shouldn't run into any surprises. They're pretty straight forward. Remove the wheel, remove the caliper, and remove the rotor (it's the type that slides over the lugs). I've heard the rear rotors can be a pain to remove and the bolts holding the calipers on can be tight (I used a breaker bar with a pipe extension to get more leverage). There are springs that hold the pads apart - these can be a little tricky when trying to reassemble - take note of how they go together when you take them apart.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 208
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco Bay Area
For such a heavy truck with relatively good but ordinary brakes (in design ) you should be careful to follow the service manual procedure and specifications.
I'd be sure to flush the system methodically (remove fluid from the reservoir before flushing through the system, etc.)
As ever, cleanliness makes for a good, professional job. Clean everything, use the right lubricants and use the correct torque specifications and procedures. Most manufacturers specify replacing fasteners like caliper bolts, so be prepared to buy some expensive bolts and use Loctite red or blue.
In the old days, it was good business to clean, machine and re-use components. Today, it's smarter and faster to use new parts and recycle old parts. So I'd suggest going with new rotors and new pads. I'd flush the lines and be sure there's no wear and tear in the system. Be careful about using one set of gloves to remove the wheels and clean and break loose the various brake components, then use clean gloves for working with brake fluid.
As ever, keep oil away from brake fluid (oil will contaminate brake fluid and cause seals to fail) and keep brake fluid away from any painted or brake surface (it will cloud paint and it will cause slip and shudder in brake pads.)
In heavy vehicles, I've had good results with after-market rotors (stainless steel, slotted, etc) and I've had good results with ceramic (Acebono) brake pads using good quality (ATE blue) brake fluid and being careful to avoid contamination.
A flush and good pads will make the brake pedal feel like there's been a high dollar Brembo upgrade. Just keep up the maintenance, especially if the X is doing tow-vehicle work.
If you find tight bolts or need to replace a ball-joint, I find heat is the best way to help free up parts -- it will soften loctite (which the factory seems to use to excess) and it will make metals expand which helps release threads or compression joints etc.
Of course, a brake job is the ideal time for a thorough inspection of all suspension components from ball joints to wheel bearings, dust boots, drive shafts, U-joints, CV-joints, carrier bearing, etc. etc. Clean and check all grease nipples. Inspect every ball joint for adequate grease. Clean, release and lube (not grease) front and rear anti-roll bar joints if you have time. Inspect springs, check diff breathers, clean everything that has a mechanical function -- this helps things last longer and it's the only way to inspect something like a drop-link bushing to see if it has burst or is worn out.
All that said, I used to be part owner in a Porsche service shop and we developed a consistent policy of making the vehcile safe -- not just bolting on new suspension, setting the alignment and taking the customer's money. It costs the "DIY in the driveway" guy nothing to be thorough. It costs the small shop a lot to be thorough because tech time and hoist time mean money. Overall, I can say from experience, the first time you find a loose nut or a ball-joint or a bushing about to fail, you know you're doing the right thing -- a suspension failure in a Porsche or an SUV like the Excursion can mean a roll-over accident, so it's well worth the time to be sure the vehicle is safe.
Well, that turned out to be a long post, but hopefully it's of use to someone getting into their own vehicle maintenance. It's very rewarding to know you're keeping your own vehicles in good shape.
I'd be sure to flush the system methodically (remove fluid from the reservoir before flushing through the system, etc.)
As ever, cleanliness makes for a good, professional job. Clean everything, use the right lubricants and use the correct torque specifications and procedures. Most manufacturers specify replacing fasteners like caliper bolts, so be prepared to buy some expensive bolts and use Loctite red or blue.
In the old days, it was good business to clean, machine and re-use components. Today, it's smarter and faster to use new parts and recycle old parts. So I'd suggest going with new rotors and new pads. I'd flush the lines and be sure there's no wear and tear in the system. Be careful about using one set of gloves to remove the wheels and clean and break loose the various brake components, then use clean gloves for working with brake fluid.
As ever, keep oil away from brake fluid (oil will contaminate brake fluid and cause seals to fail) and keep brake fluid away from any painted or brake surface (it will cloud paint and it will cause slip and shudder in brake pads.)
In heavy vehicles, I've had good results with after-market rotors (stainless steel, slotted, etc) and I've had good results with ceramic (Acebono) brake pads using good quality (ATE blue) brake fluid and being careful to avoid contamination.
A flush and good pads will make the brake pedal feel like there's been a high dollar Brembo upgrade. Just keep up the maintenance, especially if the X is doing tow-vehicle work.
If you find tight bolts or need to replace a ball-joint, I find heat is the best way to help free up parts -- it will soften loctite (which the factory seems to use to excess) and it will make metals expand which helps release threads or compression joints etc.
Of course, a brake job is the ideal time for a thorough inspection of all suspension components from ball joints to wheel bearings, dust boots, drive shafts, U-joints, CV-joints, carrier bearing, etc. etc. Clean and check all grease nipples. Inspect every ball joint for adequate grease. Clean, release and lube (not grease) front and rear anti-roll bar joints if you have time. Inspect springs, check diff breathers, clean everything that has a mechanical function -- this helps things last longer and it's the only way to inspect something like a drop-link bushing to see if it has burst or is worn out.
All that said, I used to be part owner in a Porsche service shop and we developed a consistent policy of making the vehcile safe -- not just bolting on new suspension, setting the alignment and taking the customer's money. It costs the "DIY in the driveway" guy nothing to be thorough. It costs the small shop a lot to be thorough because tech time and hoist time mean money. Overall, I can say from experience, the first time you find a loose nut or a ball-joint or a bushing about to fail, you know you're doing the right thing -- a suspension failure in a Porsche or an SUV like the Excursion can mean a roll-over accident, so it's well worth the time to be sure the vehicle is safe.
Well, that turned out to be a long post, but hopefully it's of use to someone getting into their own vehicle maintenance. It's very rewarding to know you're keeping your own vehicles in good shape.
