I know you guys have answered this before but......I know you guys say a front sump car pan will work on my 429 in my 66 F-100 Milodon makes a nice black rear sump 8 quart pan what are the benifits of a larger pan? will I need a new timing cover without the dipstick tube?I already have a brand new chrome front sump 5 quart pan just not sure?And after endless hours of header shopping I think I'm going with the L&L nickel plated for $505.00 anyone running these ?

 

GET a rear sump pan... Unless you modify the drain plug they drool oil all over the crossmember at every oil change. The front sump pans are made for CARS not 65 to 79 trucks. the drain is in the middle of the sump on the side. a real PITA to change oil.

Benifits of a larger are more oil in the pan for whan you have the front wheels three feet off the ground or are four wheeling on a 45 degree angle or runninng all day long at 6000 rpm. Just make sure you purchase the correct oil pump pickup for the pan.

I plug the oil tube on the stock cover just like ford does.

Why in the world would you spend 500 bucks on hedders. The L&Ls are for four wheel drive configuration. Make sure with the maker that they will actually fit a 2 wheel drive application.

A good set of hedmans with 3/8 flanges runs in the 200 dollar range.

The 385 likes the stock manifolds just fine in a non racing application.

Garbz

 

Ur right about the oil pan but, hedman headers have left a bad taste in my mouth.I'm a firm believer in you get what you pay for and after buying a cheap set of hedmans for a previous project I won't buy them again because thats what they are, cheap and only come in painted black.And sure if someone has some Cobra Jet manifolds laying around let me know.

 

Just remember that L&L is a four wheel drive specality manufacturer. F100 and 250s 4x4s do not have that big honkin crossmember underneath the engine that a set jigged up for a 4x4 will run into.

Need to do the homework with L&L for fitment. I have run Hedmans for years along with Hooker super comps and have no issues... Painted hedders are just that painted and need maintinence. A set of super comps or even cheap J.C Witney wolverines with ceramicoat cures the paint issue.

Cobra jets for the 429 460 are as rare as hens teeth. the stang guys pay top dollar for them........

FBP pipe in here about the merits of log manifolds on the 385....

Garbz

 

I run a medium low rise 4V intake (D1VE) & OEM Cast Iron Truck Log exhausts. IMHO I run better than with a med High Rise intake & Headers. The reason is due to my OEM Heads and lo RPM X Hi Torque camming along with the big CID, or so I am convinced.

Without back pressure in its' exhaust the 460 does not pull as well. This is also true with Boss Heads on a 5.0L a 5.7L, a Boss 429 [385 series] and Cleveland engines also. In fact there are sources that sell exhaust port baffles to stabilize exh'st system back pressure. Ever wonder why that might be?

I run 2.25" pipes out of the Logs to the end, but rely on the logs to keep the Back pressure as it was designed in the exhaust plenums where it does what it should to prevent reversion at WOT in the low end range.

BTW I'm done by 4,500 rpm. after 4500 it flattens out with or without headers. But without headers I believe I see 4500 faster.

As for the rear sump pan, I say Verbotten!. 385s tend to rope crankcase contents on a hard launch with the rear sump config pan and without a windage tray, you only insure the Oil gets loaded onto the crank throws & journals that much sooner & more throrughly/ effectively than with a front sump pan.

I added the drain in the rear of a front sump P-car pan and run that with a windage tray in my HO engine.

FBp

 

If you don't intend to race it like FBP, then another option is to get the oil pan from an '80 - '87 460. It has a small front sump and a large rear sump; it drains out real nice in my '66, out the back rear without slobbering all over the steering linkage.
The only (possible) negative is the dipstick goes in the side of the pan.

If you go this route, BE SURE to get the oil pan, dipstick and dipstick tube, AS WELL AS the pick up tube, and the main journal cap bolt - it has a threaded stud to hold the pickup tube in place.
You will also need to change your oil pump. as the longer pickup tube bolts onto the pump differently. You can use a later 460 pump in a 70's 460/429 block.

You will have to remove the old dipstick mounted on the front timing cover, as it is too long. I plugged my old dipstickhole with a rubger plug.

Good luck!