I never posted this as a problem, but thought I'd share what I've been experencieng and the cure.

I found that my 96 4.0L 4X4 XLT Extended cab would shift pretty good when it was cold, but after a good run and it had warmed up, it wouldn't want to shift again. It would grind going into reverse, and sometimes very hard to shift back into first when coming to a stop at a light or stop sign.

I've bleed the slave cylinder numerous times and it would "seem" to help, but within a week it would be back to the same old thing.

I finally decided the slave cylinder was leaking, although if you waited until the next morning, it would shift fine again. So I went to Carolina Clutches and bought a new clutch set and slave cylinder. I ordered it on the 22nd and it arrived on the 28th.

Today we tore it down, removed the transfer case, transmission and got to the clutch. No leak at the slave cylinder. I looked closer at the pressure plate and clutch disk and the clutch disk was almost past the wear marks and it probably wouldn't be long before we were into the rivets. Couldn't really find any reason for what I was experiencing except for the wear. So it was time to replace everything. And at 104,000 miles, I didn't think it was too bad for the original clutch.

The one thing I did notice was that when we were bleeding out the clutch, the new one didn't "feel right" to me. It didn't seem to have any pressure behind it, so I didn't think we had all the air out. We did, it just works that much easier.

I put at least 35 miles on it on the way home and no problems at all. Shifts well without any dragging and it's easier to push. So guess in my case, it was just time for a new clutch.

 

Thanks rBengl -

This sounds like the solution to a similar situation with my '95 5spd 4.0L: It is hard to shift into 1st from a stop and shifting through the gears requires patience to match the engine speed to the gear speed. We've already tried bleeding the slave cylinder - no effect. New transmission fluid - no effect. New shifter guide rails/bushings - very little effect.

That points to the clutch. Coincidentally, my Ranger also has 104,000 miles. Guess its just time to replace the clutch.

Thanks

 

There is another key point to this post. Whether you are rebuilding the clutch or someone is doing it for you, if the slave cylinder isn't part of the job you are flushing money. Will be interested after you drive it some more miles-hope all stays well.

 

Did you lube the splines on the input shaft of the transmission? Often the disc binds on these splines, and will not "float" between the flywheel and pressure plate, it will drag. It's possible what "cured" your problem was any lubricant that found it's way onto the input shaft, disc wear will cause slippage, but not a dragging condition.

 

I recently had the same problem and had a new clutch kit installed with a new pressure plate. I couldnt get it into gear, but once I did it was easier to shift. Luckily it was still under warranty and saved me 850 for the entire kit. I also experienced something like that before too and it was that one of my clutch cylinders ruptured. I dont know man, it sounds like you know what you are doing and Im pretty sure that you have already looked at that.