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Front rotors recommendations

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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 01:21 AM
  #1  
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Front rotors recommendations

First off, I have a '00 F250 V10 Lariat 2x4 Auto and '01 F250 7.3 4x4 Auto.
I'm coming to 100k miles for the V10 and 125k for the 7.3.
I'm on original stock rotors.

Please recommend some good set of rotors. I don't tow much at all. When I do, I'm only towing some jet skis.

I want a rotors that will last me at least 50k miles and quiet.

Help guys....
 
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 06:54 AM
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I had similiar problems with rotor warpage until I talked to Mark at DPPI. He sold me a set of Power Slot rotors with Hawk pads. I have had them on for about 3 months and I am very happy with them. They stop great and are quiet.2000 F250 4X4 Crew cab
 
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 10:10 AM
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I've been doing a lot of research and reading the past couple of weeks. The consensus is that the PS rotors with the Hawk combination is the way to go. The other rotors I was considering were the ART rotors. There aren't many direct comparisons, but the ones I have found all ended up with the PS being the preferred rotor. I've also read of several times where using the PS rotors, Hawk pads were compared to Performance Friction pads. In the end, the Hawks were the pads of choice.

So, like bigred stated, the Power Slots and Hawk pads!! Mark probably has the best price on them, and if you mention FTE there may (not positive) be some sort of discount. Here's the website to DPPI:

http://www.dieselperformanceparts.com/index.html
 
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 10:27 AM
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westladog,

Bigred00 and JTHarvey are right the Powerslots and Hawks will make you think you're in a whole different truck. I always reccomend the Cyro'ed rorotr too, they take much more abuse and still stay straight etc. Call us if you have any questions etc.

Mark @ DPPI
 
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 10:39 AM
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Wink re:rotors

Powerslots for me!after too many front rotor wrapage w/stock ford rotors I had to try something else. I heard about powerslot rotors & I am sooooo happy with them.I have about 2500 miles on them, I tow a trailer trailer(7000 -8000lbs.) and I have a comute of almost 40miles to work. Make sure a great set brake pads and flush old brake fluid.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 11:25 AM
  #6  
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For your guys with rotor warpage problems... here is a tip.. When your rotors are hot, say after coming down a good hill grade and you stop at the bottom, don't just stop and sit there with your foot on the brake pedal.. What happens is you transfer all that heat into just one area of the rotor, thus causing warpage.. Try to stop short of the stop light/sign and creep forward about two or three revolutions of the wheel, which transfers that heat around to the entire rotor equally..If your wife drives your truck, bless your heart, good luck trying to teach her to do the same.. This method will also work for your car.. And also I too like the hawk pads.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by MarkDPP
westladog,

Bigred00 and JTHarvey are right the Powerslots and Hawks will make you think you're in a whole different truck. I always reccomend the Cyro'ed rorotr too, they take much more abuse and still stay straight etc. Call us if you have any questions etc.

Mark @ DPPI
Mark, I was planning on the cyro rotors for the front, but do you think that the truck would benefit from having them on the rear too? I wouldn't think that it would be as critical since the majority of the stopping power comes from the front brakes. Also, why are the rear rotors for our trucks more expensive than the fronts?

Thanks,
JT
 
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 11:33 PM
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Got these from rotorpros off of ebay. I think they were $270 for a set of FOUR shipped to my door. That was cheaper than OEM. They stop great!! and are very quiet. No problems and they have been on the truck for 4+ months.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by PowerStrokeMe





Alright, stupid question time! Are the front brakes on a 2wd a separate hub and rotor? Or is the hub made onto the rotor. Just curious as to what I need. Someone told me that they are a separate hub/rotor, but it just doesn't look like it.

Thanks,

John
 
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 11:44 AM
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Im not totally sure. Mines a 4wd; hub and rotor are seperate. All of my rotors where free floating so it made it nice
 
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 11:46 AM
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PowerStrokeMe,

Are there "right" and "left" side rotors?

Pop
 
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop
PowerStrokeMe,

Are there "right" and "left" side rotors?

Pop
Calipers yes. Rotors, I have never heard of it. Someone correct me if I am wrong
 
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 12:01 PM
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The picture above is a cross-drilled, slotted, rotor.

They turn one direction on the right, the other direction when used on the left.

Therefore, to be truly symmetrical, the holes and slots should be cut in the "other direction" for those used on the "other" side.

Are they?

If they were stock, it wouldn't make a difference.

Pop
 
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 01:00 PM
  #14  
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i strongly recommened the slotted rotors, have them and so do all my buddys after they saw the difference they made with my truck, they have been on for over two years and look like they last another two, you could upgrade to the slotted and cross drilled combo but some have said that it wears the pad out a lot faster, slotted will take care of your problem, just fine
 
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop
PowerStrokeMe,

Are there "right" and "left" side rotors?

Pop
Yes they were marked L and R when I recieved them. You put them on so the slots bend towards the back that way it helps disperse the gasses I suppose. I got the metallic pads from AutoZone and they seem to be doing pretty well. Have put 10-15k on them and there is 50% life left on them or so. Kinda hard to tell without taking the wheel off haha. But i definetly recommend slotted rotors also!
 
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