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When truck is warm it occasionally will not engage into Drive when moving from Park or Neutral to Drive. Sometimes you have to try it a couple of times or even rev the motor a bit when in Drive to get it to engage. Once it does engage the trans works flawlessly again, no slips, perfect shifts etc...
Because the problem is sporadic, the local mechanic tried to flush it with the BG machine... but it did not help. (Note that he did NOT change the trans filter)
Also... when the trans will not engage into Drive, you can drop it to 1 and it will engage, then slip it back to Drive and everything is fine again.
Is this trans shot? Can I fix it without replacing/rebuilding the whole .
I had that happen to me years and years ago...drop it into low and it finally caught, or bump it between gears until it catches, or it ran fine when the tranny was cool...funny thing. I changed out the tourque converter with a $15 one out of a junk yard to test it and it fixed it. Six months later....same thing. I talked to a mechanic about it and he told me...tranny fluid is getting too hot (I had a 10" lift on a '70 Chev Blazer at the time and 36" tires. I've reformed years ago to all Fords now...lol). He told me many times even changing the tires to a larger size can really work the temp over in the tranny. I ended up changing out the converter with a B&M stall unit, AND I installed a front mounted aux. tranny cooller and the problem was solved. Never had problems after that...even when I put in a 400 with a 3/4 cam and 44" tires. From you saying the symptoms...this just came to mind. No guarantee that it is the problem...just a thought. I am not sure what they are doing for trans and tourqs anymore.
How does the oil smell? Feel? Color? Have you taken it by a shop to have it looked at? From time to time thru the mail or on the paper I see coupons for a free or low cost tranny examine. Might be a good idea for you to stop on by and have it checked. Remember...the mechanice is going to see dollar signs when you come in. It is his job to. Especially if it is a chain tranny shop. (No offense to anyone here that is a tranny 'canic or works for a chain shop...just had a costly experience with Monroe Muffler myself). But it could be a clogged fitler as well, starving the touqr. It just sounds so familiar to what I had. Plus I don't know how close the manufactures are to running minimums...cooling capacity for the trans for example...that might make dirty or contaminated oil become foamy and too thin to work properly. My Ranger has a standard trans in it. When I haul a heavy load within the specs, I can feel how weak the clutching system is. That is why I mention maybe when they were built, to save costs, they ran the limit on the cooling, just as I feel Ford has on my clutch. Just a thought is all. Good luck. And let us know how you do. Thanks.
Last edited by bar_keep; Mar 31, 2006 at 07:54 AM.
Thanks. The trans fluid that came out was old and smelly, but it was clear of debris. It now has nice fresh fluid in it after the recent flush. I will look in the paper this weekend and see if I can find a coupon. I was really hoping that it was something easy...
I've tried those free tranny check coupons before. I didn't have second gear, they told me I didn't have second gear. Duh. "We'll have to take it out to do anything else." It was a dead end for me.
The good news is that the 2000 service manual says this problem could be as simple as a clogged/damaged filter or the seal for the filter could be damaged, too. It also has some other recommendations, most of which are complicated. Make sure it has the correct fluid level, and I assume they put the correct type of transmission fluid back in?
I'm not an A/T pro, and I might be going out on a limb here, but I'm thinking a wiring connection is poor and/or valve body. Could be as simple as retorquing the valve body bolts or replacing the gasket between the valve body/tranny body casting. Whenever I drop an A/T pan, I always make it a point to retorque the valve body fasteners.
For that one, I would get my hands on a real service manual (from Ford or Alldata) and read into it. The job might be self explanitory just by looking and doing, but I'd hate to have some spring or check valve fall out and not know up front that it was going to happen. I would also expect that there is a torque sequence for the valve body in the service manual. Also, make sure that the surfaces the gasket sits on are free of any pieces of the old gasket.
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