full manifold or ported
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
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From: Iowa
Originally Posted by pbear6969
Yes you are absolutly right!! I do need to do alot more studying. I am use to tearing a motor apart and fixing a problem then putting it back together. You know just a regular mechanic. Never been to a mechanic school, just learning as I go. That's the reason I LOVE THIS SITE!!! Many nice people willing to help a dumb $&@ like me. Most of the info on the motor I just built came from people like you and Rusty70f100. Both of you have been helping me since the begining. I'm only 25 so I am still a young pup with lots to learn. So thanks for all the help now and in the past. 
Here's some extra good stuff, dont know if you've seen it or not:
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...on_ratio_tech/ <-- Useful article.
http://www.kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp <-- A good compression ratio calculator.
http://www.cranecams.com/ <-- There's a little "Cam Timing Spec Card" box on the right that is very useful for looking up cam information.
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Search/ <-- Same as above, but a little more direct. You input the Comp part number, not the grind number.
http://www.kb-silvolite.com/article.php <-- All kinds of useful articles! Very useful read.
Now go read up!
OBTW, is there something wrong with being 25...?
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: North Carolina
Originally Posted by rusty70f100
You're welcome!
OBTW, is there something wrong with being 25...?
OBTW, is there something wrong with being 25...?
I put is on another thread I am talking on but here it is for you guys too. What would be a good timing setting for this 410? I have heard that full advance on the crank shoud be between 30 and 35, but not sure about what it is suppose to be at the dizzy. Do I need to even check it a the dizzy or do I just check it on the crank? I am using the original dizzy with the Petronix points conversion kit in it. I have the MSD box and the blaster coil.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
Likes: 4
From: Iowa
It will probably want a lot of initial timing, and not a lot of total timing. Every motor is different, and neither I nor anybody else can tell you with any certainty exactly how much timing it will need or like. Probably your best bet is to have it dyno tuned.
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Post Fiend
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From: "Islander"
If it's a pertronix's I hope it is a Pertronix 2 unit at the first is crap and fail, friends failed two weeks ago, JMO any Pertronix is crap in my book. I being a Crane defender can't say this about their XRI that is triggered by points cam. Can't beat their XR3000 with LX91 coil system, again JMO. The cam lobes are too small vs a shutter window in my book for accuracy. As far as a wild guess on your dizzy I would go with mechanical starting at 1,000 rpm's and all in at 3,500. Vacuum starting at 4 inches and all in at 16. Initial at 11 to 13 and total at 36 degrees with a 180 degree stat.
Depends on gearing, stall speed, temp, humidity, altitude fuel grade, air inlet temp and how you drive it. Just a starting point as all mortors are different like women. Screw up like red and she likes white wine.
Even two identical builds will respond differently to carb tune and timing.
Simple, i'm simple.
Depends on gearing, stall speed, temp, humidity, altitude fuel grade, air inlet temp and how you drive it. Just a starting point as all mortors are different like women. Screw up like red and she likes white wine.
Even two identical builds will respond differently to carb tune and timing.
Simple, i'm simple.
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Oct 11, 2006 at 08:55 PM.
Post Fiend
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From: "Islander"
krewat, that setup would be what Delta Mark 10 and 10A CD ignition systems used back in the late 60's early 70's. The trigger current thru the points was so low in normal use the points would become oxidized causing misfires. I ended up with a switch to transfer back to standard points induction once a week. The higher current would burn the points clean after a few minutes running then switch back to the "improved CD ignition".
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
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From: Iowa
Junk points float at high RPM's. A good set of points will do wonders for your RPM potential. I suggest a set of Blue Streak points if you're going to run points.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: North Carolina
Originally Posted by rusty70f100
Junk points float at high RPM's. A good set of points will do wonders for your RPM potential. I suggest a set of Blue Streak points if you're going to run points.
I am running a set of Accel 32oz points in it now. They are the heavy duty points that are made for high rpms.(so says accel) I talked to my local performance shop today and they said they can set my dizzy up for about 40 bucks. I have to give them all the specs, trans, gear, max advance rpm etc... I have a Mallory Unilite availible to me for about $100, mechanical advance only. Should I just go the mallory way or have my fomoco set up?
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Long Island USA
Originally Posted by rusty70f100
Junk points float at high RPM's. A good set of points will do wonders for your RPM potential. I suggest a set of Blue Streak points if you're going to run points.
Carl, that sounds like an interesting setup. Self-cleaning points...
Post Fiend
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From: "Islander"
If it were my motor I would install a Crane XR3000 w/LX91 coil in a rebuilt Ford dizzy. I was never a big fan of high dollar after market dizzys, guess i'm not a look at me under the hood person.
Senior User
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From: North Carolina
Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
If it were my motor I would install a Crane XR3000 w/LX91 coil in a rebuilt Ford dizzy. I was never a big fan of high dollar after market dizzys, guess i'm not a look at me under the hood person.
So you are saying ditch the original dizzy and get a rebuilt one with the XR3000 conversion kit? Will the XR work with my MSD 6a box? The Mallory I have came from my uncle who had it in a 427. He changed his entire system to MSD, so he is selling the Mallory. That was the only reason I was considering it. The MSD dizzy is like 275 and that is way too much in my opinion to pay for a distributor.
If I went with the Crane would you say get rid of the MSD coil and go with the Crane unit?
Post Fiend
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From: "Islander"
The first thing that Mallory dizzy without vacuum would be a waste of money JMO, why look for trouble? Second, I never said ditch the OEM dizzy. I would run a good stock dizzy, one that isn't worn out with loose bearings and a shot mechanical advance.
Get yourself a Crane XR 3000 w/LX91 coil. The output is 100% greater than comparable OEM coils and 70% greater than MSD's Blaster coil. No ballast or resistor wire needed. Even their lesser output system the XR 700 that must use a ballast resistor or resistor ignition wire works great, the XR3000 is the high performance version of a XR700. Or if you must have billet your on your own with fancy high dollar units, your wallet.
My friend had a Pertronix's unil fail running a MSD Blaster coil, on the bottom of the coil it said Made in China.
Get yourself a Crane XR 3000 w/LX91 coil. The output is 100% greater than comparable OEM coils and 70% greater than MSD's Blaster coil. No ballast or resistor wire needed. Even their lesser output system the XR 700 that must use a ballast resistor or resistor ignition wire works great, the XR3000 is the high performance version of a XR700. Or if you must have billet your on your own with fancy high dollar units, your wallet.
My friend had a Pertronix's unil fail running a MSD Blaster coil, on the bottom of the coil it said Made in China.
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Oct 13, 2006 at 12:03 AM.
Senior User
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From: North Carolina
Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
Second, I never said ditch the OEM dizzy. I would run a good stock dizzy, one that isn't worn out with loose bearings and a shot mechanical advance.
Get yourself a Crane XR 3000 w/LX91 coil. The output is 100% greater than comparable OEM coils and 70% greater than MSD's Blaster coil.
Get yourself a Crane XR 3000 w/LX91 coil. The output is 100% greater than comparable OEM coils and 70% greater than MSD's Blaster coil.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: "Islander"
The question is why? Why mix good with bad, JMO. I had numerous MSD failures in the past as well others on the forum (ask Greg, GTEX) on how many times he wasted money on replacements. They have a short duration spark that becomes one spark before 3,000 rpm's anyway.
Buy good once.
Buy good once.