Anybody changed out power door locks. 3 of 4 in my crew cab don't work. Just wondering if it is a job for small hands and two elbows or can a normal person do it? Any tips?

 

you talking about the actuators? Not too bad on those.....not a cheap thing either...actuator assembly runs $78 each.

 

EXCEPT 1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 AND F-SUPER DUTY
Remove the door latch.
Remove the door ajar switch.
Pry up on lock actuator tab.
Slide the door latch lock actuator off the latch channels using a prying action.
Remove the door latch lock actuator.
The installation is the reverse of the removal.

 

Is there a quality difference between Ford and, oh say, Autozone or Pepboys?

 

Not sure...bought mine from ford...doubt there is a difference.

 

My powerlocks are out as well. I have found some actuators for around $60, OEM replacement. I have also found $10 generic actuators at parts stores.

Could a generic actuator be modified to fit in there cost effectively?

 

FORD OEM FTE PRICE $43.22 EA IN STOCK
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Ed

 

If you are a do-it-yourselfer, check out this thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=447449

 

Clux,

I searched for an hour to find that, and never did. I KNEW it was somewhere, cause I remember reading it the first time. Great memory!

There's a little sumptin' for your efforts....

Pop

 

well, i did change mine out last weekend and the first door was kind of a pain, but the second one took me far less time. this is a little long, sorry, just read so many in-depth how tos, so i just wanted to give back

as for the aftermarket vs the oem...i normally dont like to spend money at a dealership, but i didnt want to redo this job again in six months

pretty easy to do, here is a quick run through
*remove door pad (two bolts, under door pad courtesy light and pwr window,lock part of armrest) (remember to remove the plugs from the pwr locks and windows) then push up on pad and pull outward to remove
*remove the plastic noise, moisture barrier
*start to remove the various actuator rods attached to the door latch. the rod from the key cylinder to latch an be left on latch, just remove from cylinder and be careful not to get hung up on way out. the clip that holds the outside door handle rod is the worst one, just get a grip on it with one finger, and i pops open. it is pretty tight in there, but my hands fit and they are by no means small
*this step is dependent on how easy it is to get the the switches remove the clip for the actuator, and then the clip for the door ajar dash light. these factory plugs are kind of hard to get too, but i pulled the first one out with them on, easier to do with them off.
*remove the two yellow cable holders that stick through the door panel that hold the cable running from the door handle to the latch
*remove the three bolts that hold the latch to door. be sure to have the right size bit as these stupid torx bolts will strip if not careful. (this can also be done earlier if having trouble getting any rods loose)
*now the fun part, you have to turn the latch/actuator assembly as you go past the window track. just do some wiggling, and remember to make sure no rods are hung up still
*thats it, just release the clip with a flat blade screwdriver and pull it off. on mine for some reason, the new actuator was shorter than the old, and to get the old off, i had to shimmy it past the door ajar plug on the latch. then just install the new one.
* now just reinstall. when reinstalling the rod for the outer door handle, first try to clip the threaded part into the clip(it will snap) and then close the clip
*test all functions!!!!!!!!! check to make sure the door unlocks with key, door locks, and what not. trust me, easier now than later and removing door pad again to fix
*reinstall door pad and that is it.

 

oh, and by the way, the new actuators that i got from ford, are screw together, not riveted like the old ones. this was the only thing stopping me from doing the "fix" that was posted a few threads up

 

Good advice, good link.

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