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jt, did you order the filters pre charged or without the pre charge. It is a delayed release system but didn;t know if that was good or bad for these diesels?
I've always felt I could control the concentration of SCA better if I used the non-charged filters and just added the chemicals manually when needed. In addition, the pre-charged filters come in varying amounts of SCA's, so you have to be real careful about selecting the correct one if going that way.
If you need an alternate mounting location for a coolant filter, take a look in my gallery.
jt, did you order the filters pre charged or without the pre charge. It is a delayed release system but didn;t know if that was good or bad for these diesels?
I got the non-charged filters. I agree with Pop. I'd rather have more control over my levels by manually adding the additive. I thought about the charged ones, but then what happens if your SCA levels are in check, but you need to change your coolant filter? All of a sudden, you could be running a dangerous level of SCA's. And, given that you don't need to check the SCA levels all that often, it's not any more of a hassle.
That was what I was thinking, I just wondered why they would even offer such a thing? For someone that is going to the troubel (or fun) of adding a coolant filter, they are obviously going to do most of their own maintenance so what would be the point?
Thanks as usuall for your help!!!!
I forgot to ask an obvious question: If I drain as much coolant as I can (out of the block and radiator and such) where do I add it all back in? Do I just stand there while the truck is running pouring it into the overflow container until it take it all? Would it be OK to change the 3 bolts that hold on the thermostat housing to Stainless for the future or is there a drawback to that?
Stainless should have some kind of lubrication on the threads, as there are microscopic "burrs" created in most stainless bolts' threads during the thread-cutting process, and the chances of thread "galling" is increased. May increase your chances of a broken bolt next removal. This is not such a big deal on bolts that are removed as infrequently as the thermostat housing bolts, but if a bolt's threads are "exercised" more often, ALWAYS use some kind of lubrication, along with using something besides friction on which to assure thread locking (lock washers, safety wire, etc).
This applies to stainless, and to a lesser extent brass, but this is not an application for brass screws.
Pop
Last edited by SpringerPop; Mar 27, 2006 at 10:56 AM.
The overflow tank (degas bottle in technical terms) is the only fill point on the truck. You don't need to have the truck running to fill the coolant level. There is actually a hose on the bottom, passenger's side of the bottle that will drain the coolant into the rest of the system. Fill it up to the "max cold" level. That should get you pretty close to full. You can then start the truck and top off the system, but it won't take much more, maybe 1/2 gallon from what I remember. Put the cap back on and check for leaks. Once the engine has gone through a full warm up and cool down cycle, re-check your coolant level. Add as necessary and that should do it. Oh, and don't forget to replenish the SCA levels!!
There are two. One on each side of the block. One is right above the starter, a 1/4" square drive plug, the other is in the same location on the opposite side of the engine.
Don't pull them until you're ready to get wet!!
Cookie, the 1/4 square plug you mentioned above, is there a tool out there with a 1/4" square tip? or did you use a 1/4 extension for the ratchet wrench?
Nope, the SCA levels will not need to be checked. That is the benefit of the gold "stuff". I think it is good in theory for 100,000 miles if I remember right.
I just got a quote from the stealership for 90.00 to flush and fill with the additive. This seems like a good deal to me. I think materials alone come close to this don't they?
If you do the flush and coolant filter and change over to the gold "stuff" you dont have to check the levels do you?
If you are going to do a complete flush and refill there are actually much better coolants to use than the Ford Premium Gold which is Zerex G-05 packaged for Ford. Most of the heavy duty diesel ELC's (ec-1 rated) coolants are good for our engines, and offer better protection and longer (300,000 mile, 3 years, or 6000 hours) maintainence intervals.
One more thing to add here if you do change to an ELC coolant like I did (I went with the Shell Rotella ELC and so far so good.) I believe it's an absolute MUST to pull the block drains AND flush, flush, flush. You won't believe how much coolant is still left in the block AFTER you pull the block drains. I flushed thoroughly with low pressure tap water through the radiator, thermostat housing area, heater hose (be sure to open up your heater core valve and use LOW pressure) and found a great deal of green stuff left after the drain. After it's all cleaned out and drained THEN get yourself 10 or 15 gallons of distilled water at wal-mart and flush out all of your tap water and drain again through radiator, block drains, etc. I used a little low pressure air to finish off to blow out any remaining water and replaced all of my drains, thermostat housing etc and filled up with pre-mixed Rotella ELC. DONE.
I'm not sure if it was because of the thorough flush, but I found very, very little particulate matter or green gunk and casting sand in my coolant filter after 5,000 miles. I know other's have found a great deal right after the change to ELC.
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