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Very, very easy. I've got 23k on it now and the oil wasn't bad looking at all. What started to worry me was all the rust and how long before it rust through and started leaking only to get a new steel cover from Ford. I live in Socal and it's still rusting like crazy. Mustangs and almost all others get aluminum covers from Ford except the trucks. Anyone got more info on this?
I used Redline 75W-140NS (NS indicates that is doesn't contain any modifier, their regular fluid already has it) then added the modifier. Only about $10 a qt from Summit compared to Mobil 1 at the local Zone and Krapen for $15 a qt!
For some reason, Summit doesn't sell the 75W-140 with the modifier in it but they do sell a 80W-140 and 75W-140NS, strange.
6 qts and two bottles of modifier, as per the Mag-Hytec directions, test drove it and when I checked the level, perfectly full.
Easy enough to put a funnel in the cover and pour the fluid into if you don't have the pointed end bottles, and Redline doesn't. Just be careful not to miss the funnel and pour it on yourself
thats great kevin. did youu do front and back or just the rear?
i did both and love them. dip stick to check the level. drain plug to drain them. great fit.
with the trans forgetaboutit. the left cat pipe below the cat is on the way of the rear of the deep pan. check out my gallery." kick me in the rear for messing up a $1700.00 set of pipes and cats. by the the time you add special shipping and sales tax it's close"
the left pipe below the cat dosn't clear the pan. it's ok on a psd a gaser no way.
but the trans dose run much colder like 150 degs when towing. the temp port is inside the pan, and it adds 8 qts.
thats great kevin. did youu do front and back or just the rear?
i did both and love them. dip stick to check the level. drain plug to drain them. great fit.
with the trans forgetaboutit. the left cat pipe below the cat is on the way of the rear of the deep pan. check out my gallery." kick me in the rear for messing up a $1700.00 set of pipes and cats. by the the time you add special shipping and sales tax it's close"
the left pipe below the cat dosn't clear the pan. it's ok on a psd a gaser no way.
but the trans dose run much colder like 150 degs when towing. the temp port is inside the pan, and it adds 8 qts.
Charlie, is that on all model years? I have a 2003. Will the exhaust interfere on it?
thats great kevin. did youu do front and back or just the rear?
i did both and love them. dip stick to check the level. drain plug to drain them. great fit.
with the trans forgetaboutit. the left cat pipe below the cat is on the way of the rear of the deep pan. check out my gallery." kick me in the rear for messing up a $1700.00 set of pipes and cats. by the the time you add special shipping and sales tax it's close"
the left pipe below the cat dosn't clear the pan. it's ok on a psd a gaser no way.
but the trans dose run much colder like 150 degs when towing. the temp port is inside the pan, and it adds 8 qts.
Only did the rear, 4x2. Haven't given much thought to the trans-pan since the tranny cooler is HUGE to start with and I'd figure there is enough to do the job as it is. Good info though, now I know to STAY AWAY from the trans-pan.
Charlie, is that on all model years? I have a 2003. Will the exhaust interfere on it?
yes we checked others and found the same thing y pipe is in the way on gas motors 5.4 and 6.8
the psd's are no problem. no pipes in the way.also on the psd's we have found the extra fuild really helps them a lot in staying cooler. they need them .
For what it is worth... I have had the rusty factory steel stamped cover on many ford rear ends for over 15 years and not a leak at all for the sick looking work truck cover...
Ugly yes... apt to rust through and leave you stranded...not likely
BTW for not much elboe grease and a LOT cheaper then the Mag Higtech they paint up real pretty
I like the looks of the Mag unit but trust me cooling is not a big issue with the massive Ford 10.25 rear gears and pumkin...
all you get for all the dough is a cool "looking" cover....
And don't try to sell me on the neat dip stick .... If the front pinion seal and the two outboard wheel bearing seals are not leaking...you have enough fluid in there... word dog........ and truth too!
Now just so folks don't get their nickers all in a bunch...if the danged things were priced at $79.99 they would make 20 dollars profit from each of the two units they could sell me.
$30-$50+K on trucks and some won't spend another $200 or so for piece of mind but some will spend thousands on other mods that do nothing for performance, to each his own. I've read several post on this board and others about the covers leaking after they rust through, not uncommon at all. Strand you on the side of the road, no, but does makes one hell of a mess (I've had a F150 with a leaking front pinion seal and the entire rear of the underside was coated in axle lube, nasty stuff).
Some have tried a new cover and painted it only to have it peel off (just like the factorys stuff the first time you put some heat into it by towing), rust and leak again. Search this and other boards and you'll see a number of failed covers. I'm not making this up.
My Lightning had an alum cover, all of my Mustang 8.8's have had an alum cover and none of them ever corroded like the 250-350 covers made of stamped steel. My 250 has just over 20k and the pitting was severe (reminded me of a rust bucket winter beater back home) and I currently live in SOCAL where the weather is nice. Can't imagain a place like Michigan that puts salt on the roads.
$30-$50+K on trucks and some won't spend another $200 or so for piece of mind but some will spend thousands on other mods that do nothing for performance, to each his own. I've read several post on this board and others about the covers leaking after they rust through, not uncommon at all. Strand you on the side of the road, no, but does makes one hell of a mess (I've had a F150 with a leaking front pinion seal and the entire rear of the underside was coated in axle lube, nasty stuff).
Some have tried a new cover and painted it only to have it peel off (just like the factorys stuff the first time you put some heat into it by towing), rust and leak again. Search this and other boards and you'll see a number of failed covers. I'm not making this up.
My Lightning had an alum cover, all of my Mustang 8.8's have had an alum cover and none of them ever corroded like the 250-350 covers made of stamped steel. My 250 has just over 20k and the pitting was severe (reminded me of a rust bucket winter beater back home) and I currently live in SOCAL where the weather is nice. Can't imagain a place like Michigan that puts salt on the roads.
I, too, live in SoCal in a desert climate and am totally mystified at how my diff cover looks like it just emerged from the navy graveyard. Glad to know it's not just mine that's doing it. I only have 28k miles on it, too. I have done very little towing with it so far.
$200 for piece of mind with an very over priced (yes cool looking) vs. my 20 min of elboe greas, degreaser, masking tape, and a decent spray bomb of good looking red VHT paint... I like my method very much thanks
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