I have a 1967 F-100 with a bent frame. I have a sentimental attachment to the truck and want to rebuild it. I've had a tough time finding a "donor truck" and was wondering if other year f-100s are compatible with the 1967 body.

Thanks

jck

 

67-72 will work with no mods. I believe 73-79 may work as well. It has to be an F-100 though.

Ken

 

Wow! That was fast. Thanks! Got any suggestions on starting a rebuild? I have my grandfather's truck. It was a farm truck and got beat on a lot. That's how the frame got bent--crossing the field with 30 bags of fertilizer (1,500 pounds). I'm not trying to make a show truck, just one that's safe (stop and steer), reliable (modern car/truck reliability) and somewhat comfortable (music, tilt and great seats).

Thanks again!

jck

 

I'd start with a plan on paper. Write down what you want the finished truck to be. What engine, stock or modified, carburetor or fuel injection, home built or crate. Transmission, automatic, automatic overdrive, manual, three speed or four. Air conditioning, power steering, power disk brakes, stereo, leather, tinted and power windows. Then develop a budget and a time frame for completion. Consider the tools, work space you will need and decide what work you will do yourself and what you will farm out. Ask yourself honestly if you are really ready to tackle this. Then get a straight frame, clean it and start from there.
William in Atlanta

 

Find a solid 67-72 to use as a starting point. If you want tilt, you'll need a tilt steering column from a 78-79 Bronco or F150. Decide what major parts of the "new" truck you are going to keep, and remove the rest. Pretty much everything from your 67 will swap without a problem. The differences to be aware of are:

1. The 67 had a unique interior, with different door panels and handles. I like the '67 parts better, so keep yours if they are in good shape.
2. The 67-69 beds had reflectors at the rear corners, but no marker lights. The 70-72 beds had side marker lights. This only matters if you have a Custom Cab or Ranger, because the bright mouldings also changed in 70, and the 70-72 mouldings will not fit right on a 67-69 bed.
3. The grilles are different on each year. The 67-69 grilles are very similar, but the 70-72 look completely different (they are split down the middle, and use plastic inserts). Personally, I really prefer the 67-69 grilles. If your '67 has a nice grille, save it.

Obviously, the best choice would be to find another '67. As you can't do that, your next preference should be for a '68 or '69 with the right options/trim. If you still have no luck, you can make it work with a 70-72, but you'll wind up swapping a lot more little things like mouldings and badges than if you had a 67-69 to work with.

 

73-76 are compatible frames but you get a 2 inch space between
the box and cab, looks normal to the average joe. I got
a 74 cab on a 1970 frame, so I imagine it goes the other way
too.



Fe power

 

This might be of a service to you...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1874990555

Happy hunting

Ken

 

I have a 77 Cab and Frame if you want it. Just come and haul it off. There is no suspension or axles under the truck and the bed is gone.I live in Fayetteville, N.C.

 

67-72 was a 'family' so the parts will interchange. 73-79 body parts will fit but the body lines won't match up right.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 21-Dec-02 AT 00:18 AM (EST)]Hey jck in nc, William has good info. And when you get that budget figured out, you might just double it and see how you feel. If it makes you whoozy, Maybe reconsider. Because once you start down that road if you turn back you basically throw everything you've done up to that point away. Oh yeah, and figure it will take twice as long. I'm not sure I'd do another total rodstoration of a truck. You will be lucky to get back even close to 50 cents on dollar. Even if selling it when it is just finished. A guy has had a restored 68 Camper Special for sale for over a year in Old Cars Weekly for $8500. But you can keep it and drive it for many years and maybe get all it back in pleasure. Or so I'm hoping. But if you have a place and time to do more of body work yourself, it wont cost nearly as much. Those body shop hours really add up. Good Luck - If you get another frame and you are going to lower it, just ditch the I beams, get the IFS, and do a good 4 link on rear (No Limit has strong one).
I didn't and already wish I had.

 

I can see that a plan is in order here. Maybe that bent frame was a blessing. I'm gonna have my Ford, but it'll cost a little more than I thought and take me a little longer--that's cool. I thank you guys for keeping out of trouble here.

Now that I've learned that lesson, I'm putting my list together. If it were a different time of year a truck show would help. It seems like there are lots of parts out there (E-bay, etc...) a few books, and fewer good web sites.

I'm in no hurry and I don't mind carrying my lunch to save truck money. I should look into the other list under FTE.

jck

p.s. I followed a nice '65 F-100 Saturday...sweet!

 

I have a 72 3/4 ton 2wd frame you could have for free. Just gota come get it. Im in Nebraska. In the 2wds i would reccomend staying in the 67-72 years, to keep things simple. If you were going 4x4, i would reccomend going to a 78-79. They have a couple things that were a nice improvement, such as disk brakes, and a better power steering setup.

Tony Warren
Nebraska