installing headers on a 400
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Senior User
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installing headers on a 400
I got a set of headers from Jeg's to put on my 400, anybody have any tips, tricks, or what not to do when I install them? any advice will be greatly appreciated...thanks in advance, Charles
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,561
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From: Earth
I don't use gaskets. Instead I use Permatex 598B. I think it has now been relabled as "Type R." The 598B is a high temp sealant and I have had NO leaks whatsoever. If you have to pull the headers for any reason, it is a pain to clean off the old stuff though. I got this tip from Sanderson Headers, it's on there website.
Also, torque the header bolts down to 20 ft-lbs in an even pattern. Start in the middle and work outward. Run the engine for a while, get them good and hot, let the engine cool off, then retorque them. I usually keep retorquing them until they have permanently set, usually 2-3 heat cycles.
Also, if you use the Permatex, don't start the engine until it is completely dry, 24 hrs. Believe me, it works, but it is a bear to clean off if you have to pull them off for some reason.
Also, torque the header bolts down to 20 ft-lbs in an even pattern. Start in the middle and work outward. Run the engine for a while, get them good and hot, let the engine cool off, then retorque them. I usually keep retorquing them until they have permanently set, usually 2-3 heat cycles.
Also, if you use the Permatex, don't start the engine until it is completely dry, 24 hrs. Believe me, it works, but it is a bear to clean off if you have to pull them off for some reason.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,812
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From: Central Ohio
I used the the dyno-max cheap headers at jegs and they went on just fine. I also bought aluminum gaskets at jegs and they have worked fine too. About 4 years on the setup so far. Of course I dont know if I could even tell if the gaskets were leaking - my exhaust is pretty darn loud. Thinking about putting real mufflers on it sometime. I have also heard good things about using copper gaskets but I never tried them yet.
I did have trouble fitting the cerama-coat dynomax headers from jegs though. Wouldnt clear the front driveshaft so I had to go for the alternate style which I like alot better (slightly smaller tube & longer) but only available in plain black finish.
I did have trouble fitting the cerama-coat dynomax headers from jegs though. Wouldnt clear the front driveshaft so I had to go for the alternate style which I like alot better (slightly smaller tube & longer) but only available in plain black finish.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,637
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From: Albuquerque
I don't see how you can get a seal without gaskets. Don't cut the flanges unless its a last resort. Loosen the entire exhaust system, bolt everything up loose and then start tightening from the headers back so you don't have stress. Retighten after a few miles. There are many high tech gaskets out there now but I haven't had any problems with the paper one from Mr. Gasket.
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ok...I got the headers in today....they came with gaskets, anybody know how good the gaskets are they send?? I have the cheap headers from Jeg's....
I'm also putting a new exhust system in....I'm nstalling the headers, then taking it to the muffler shop
I'm also putting a new exhust system in....I'm nstalling the headers, then taking it to the muffler shop
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From: lancaster ohio
what brand headers that might help a little more than " cheapies". i ran the summit brand and they are tight but they are on there. good luck be sure to use lots of antiseize on your new headers. if you didnt get new bolts go get them, you will need collecters as well, they may be cheaper at the store than the shop.
I broke a bolt off trying to them out
......
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Eastern Pa
I used the Dyno max and had no problems. Use the gaskets. Don't cut the flanges unless they don't line up for some reason. Sometimes the flange tweaks as it cools from being welded and that can create some warpage that is hard to overcome, but once they are on how would they warp? They are bolted onto a flat surface and held tightly.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: upstate N Y
I have always had more trouble with " @#@#""$$^%""$ %$#" collector gaskets than the head to header gaskets.You can soak the header to head gaskets over night in water this swells them and helps them seal.As for the collector gaskets I changed my Falcon to slip collectors no more troubles.Retighten your header bolts several times over the next few weeks .
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
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Support the rear of your headers from a bracket fastened to the transmission NOT the body or frame. This will minimize the flexing on the headers. Remember they do expand with heat more than the engine and transmission tho. Try to make the rest of the exhaust system flex instead.
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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the hi-temp red silcone works trust me from the start i didn't believe it either till i tryed it the shop i work at thats all we use when we put on manifolds and they been doing that for 10years with no problems yet
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2003
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From: Earth
Originally Posted by old75F-100
the hi-temp red silcone works trust me from the start i didn't believe it either till i tryed it the shop i work at thats all we use when we put on manifolds and they been doing that for 10years with no problems yet
If done properly, it won't blow out and is a perfect seal for imperfect surfaces 