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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

96 Leaf spring help

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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 05:09 PM
  #16  
Mark Wenner's Avatar
Mark Wenner
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From: Tulsa, OK
The 4WD F150s and Broncos also use the wider spring. Thought I'd ask!
 
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 05:28 PM
  #17  
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quicklook2
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Lakewood, Ohio
oh yeah , that is right. i was watching nascar and not thinking straight.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 01:32 PM
  #18  
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Fair 96
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Laughing Gas
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Hi Again
I was wondering if anyone could suggest a good reasonably priced all around shock for my truck. I figure If I change the springs may as well do the shocks too. I will be going with the 1700 rear springs that was suggested in an earlier thread.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 05:05 PM
  #19  
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treading
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From: Apopka Florida
Thumbs up Shackles and shocks

Mark your shackle bracket is on the way. Luke I found that Monroe Gasmatic's are pretty good and reasonable. When I replaced my shackle bracket I did the following and it sure made things easier. I removed the rear bumper and bed. 4 bolts for the bumper and six bolts for the bed. Bed weighs about 200lbs so 3 can remove it easy and have a set of saw horses behind the truck to move the bed to. The shackle holder is rivets so you have to grind them off (20 minutes). I found 8 grade 7/16" 1 1/2 bolts and nuts at my local parts store for less than $10. The long bolts for the spring and shackle are 14mm by 2, Grade 8. I bought them from one ford dealer who hosed me but I found a dealer who sells the bolts cheap if you know the size Heinzelman Ford http://www.truckstruckstrucks.com/ .
 
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 05:14 PM
  #20  
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treading
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From: Apopka Florida
Thumbs up Rear Gas tank

Luke, If you have to replace the rear tank here is some inportant info. 1. I do not think it is possible unless you remove the bed as you will need to get the the fuel line quick disconnects. 2. You will see two upper straps for the tank, Do not throw them away unless they are completely unuseable. New ones are $70 each. I had factory skid plates under my tank which had to be removed as the tank is removed from the bottom. You can get the quick disconnect tools at your local Pep-Boys. Ford wanted $400 for the new rear tank but I got one fromRock Auto for $64. You will notice that the bottom plate or strap had neoprene strips seating and cushioning the tank to the rear lower straps. I know a local refridgeration supply house that sells 4" neoprene 8ft strips for $10 they work very well.
 

Last edited by treading; Mar 27, 2006 at 06:08 PM.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 09:19 PM
  #21  
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Fair 96
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Laughing Gas
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Hello
I just got all the parts rounded up and got started today.. I got the right side completely appart. It was a bear but I decided to do the front one also as it has surface rust. Man it took 2 hours to get that one off. It totally sucked. I think I will leave the one on the drivers side front alone. The front tank looks loke it will be in the way and I do not wanna press my luck. Anyone ever do the front one on the drivers side.. Any tips or should I just leave it alone . Theres rust on it too... I will do the rear for sure but I gotta get the other side together first... Wow what a pain this is and alot of work. I am getting too old for this...
 
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 11:51 PM
  #22  
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treading
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From: Apopka Florida
If you have the bed off and the parts you might as well do it all. I had a problem with replacing the bushings but you can get poly bushings that insert from both sides and I promise you will not be disappointed
 
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 04:39 PM
  #23  
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Fair 96
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Laughing Gas
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Thanks for all the help everyone it is done. The truck sure rides alot different...
 
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