CPS Failures
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Cps
Welcome my friend. Yes the CPS is a covered item. I bought my backup unit on e-bay for $50.00. The deductable is $100.00 and it isn't a bad job to do yourself. Its on the front right side of the engine. You will need a 10mm wrench and a screwdriver to help break it loose.
New User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Rhode Island
CPS or something else?
I have some serious intermittent hessitation problems with my 1999 F350 Diesel. When letting off the throttle completly, and then trying to accelerate, the check engine light will come on and there will be no response when applying the throttle.
I did some research on Alldata, and discovered what I think may be another possible cause for hesitation. It's called the "Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor". It's located at the top of the accelerator pedal assembly.
This has happened even while on the highway. The no throttle response can last for up to ten seconds or more. So far anyway.
So I reseated the connector on the peddal position sensor, and took the truck for a test drive. I had no problems, but like I said the problem has been itermittent.
I have an electronics background. Through my experiance I can definatly say that dirty or oxidized connection can cause a lot of problems. This is espesally true with low energy signal circuits.
I think the idea of cleaning and protecting the connection will probably help the problem in a lot of cases.
Davyjac
I did some research on Alldata, and discovered what I think may be another possible cause for hesitation. It's called the "Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor". It's located at the top of the accelerator pedal assembly.
This has happened even while on the highway. The no throttle response can last for up to ten seconds or more. So far anyway.
So I reseated the connector on the peddal position sensor, and took the truck for a test drive. I had no problems, but like I said the problem has been itermittent.
I have an electronics background. Through my experiance I can definatly say that dirty or oxidized connection can cause a lot of problems. This is espesally true with low energy signal circuits.
I think the idea of cleaning and protecting the connection will probably help the problem in a lot of cases.
Davyjac
Of the next Riffraff East
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 2
From: Concord NC
Originally Posted by davyjac
I have some serious intermittent hessitation problems with my 1999 F350 Diesel. When letting off the throttle completly, and then trying to accelerate, the check engine light will come on and there will be no response when applying the throttle.
I did some research on Alldata, and discovered what I think may be another possible cause for hesitation. It's called the "Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor". It's located at the top of the accelerator pedal assembly.
This has happened even while on the highway. The no throttle response can last for up to ten seconds or more. So far anyway.
So I reseated the connector on the peddal position sensor, and took the truck for a test drive. I had no problems, but like I said the problem has been itermittent.
I have an electronics background. Through my experiance I can definatly say that dirty or oxidized connection can cause a lot of problems. This is espesally true with low energy signal circuits.
I think the idea of cleaning and protecting the connection will probably help the problem in a lot of cases.
Davyjac
I did some research on Alldata, and discovered what I think may be another possible cause for hesitation. It's called the "Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor". It's located at the top of the accelerator pedal assembly.
This has happened even while on the highway. The no throttle response can last for up to ten seconds or more. So far anyway.
So I reseated the connector on the peddal position sensor, and took the truck for a test drive. I had no problems, but like I said the problem has been itermittent.
I have an electronics background. Through my experiance I can definatly say that dirty or oxidized connection can cause a lot of problems. This is espesally true with low energy signal circuits.
I think the idea of cleaning and protecting the connection will probably help the problem in a lot of cases.
Davyjac
Have your codes checked and let us know.
Welcome to FTE.
Last edited by zx250; May 2, 2006 at 05:52 PM.
Junior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
I'm totally on the bubble of should I replace my cps or not. I haven't had any problems at all but it was factory installed in '97 and now has 122k on it. Is changing it before it goes good preventative maintence or just worrying over nothing.
I'm also a little confused about all the talk about lube's and sprays. Are we just talking about that little tube of white grease or is it something else?
I'm also a little confused about all the talk about lube's and sprays. Are we just talking about that little tube of white grease or is it something else?
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 780
Likes: 1
From: Chicago suburbs
I would leave it on, but get a spare just in case. Why mess with one that seems to be working. Also since it has been in so long. It may be a b!#ch to get out. If you do change it out, remember to lube the gasket before you replace it so that it will be easiere the next time around
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
Ok I had all the signs of a bad cps so I took the advice and disconnected and reconnected the cps a few time. I think it made it worse so I ordered the new CPS (black) off of ebay for about $55 brand new in pkg. Replaced it about a week ago and I have not had a problem since. Thanks for all the info guys.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Ogden, UT
I'm new to the site, and some of you may have seen my thread posted about a week ago asking for input on my truck dying and the garage charging me $900 to replace the CPS. Truck is running fine now, but one thing confuses me--what is the difference between the "blue" CPS and the "black" CPS? Also, since Pop pointed out that the Ford CPS sensor is a low-bidder item, which brand do you suggest? After my problems, I'm putting a spare behind the back seat alongside the spare oil, fuel and air filters, so I want to have a good quality one. Sorry, Pop, I would have sent my supposedly "bad" sensor if the garage had a policy of returning bad parts upon repair. I usually have to twist their arm to get ANY part back. Also, just for your information as you pursue your quest, my CPS supposedly DID throw an ECM code, P0340, according to the invoice from the garage.
Given the wide range of possible hesitation/dying problems (mine died after engine reached what seemed to be excessive heat), what other parts do you suggest I keep spares of on hand?
Thanks. You guys are great and the wealth of knowledge and support is great here!!
Kevin
Given the wide range of possible hesitation/dying problems (mine died after engine reached what seemed to be excessive heat), what other parts do you suggest I keep spares of on hand?
Thanks. You guys are great and the wealth of knowledge and support is great here!!
Kevin
New User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Another CPS casualty, a 03 with only 35,000 miles on her. No moist conditions and no excessive heat. My son and I pulled out onto a highway last week and almost got creamed. It will be under warranty and will be at the dealer this coming Wednesday. What does it take to get a recall as I can't count how many people that I have heard the problem from.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
Likes: 12
From: 21791
Originally Posted by AlaskaF350PS
I'm new to the site, and some of you may have seen my thread posted about a week ago asking for input on my truck dying and the garage charging me $900 to replace the CPS. Truck is running fine now, but one thing confuses me--what is the difference between the "blue" CPS and the "black" CPS? Also, since Pop pointed out that the Ford CPS sensor is a low-bidder item, which brand do you suggest? After my problems, I'm putting a spare behind the back seat alongside the spare oil, fuel and air filters, so I want to have a good quality one. Sorry, Pop, I would have sent my supposedly "bad" sensor if the garage had a policy of returning bad parts upon repair. I usually have to twist their arm to get ANY part back. Also, just for your information as you pursue your quest, my CPS supposedly DID throw an ECM code, P0340, according to the invoice from the garage.
Given the wide range of possible hesitation/dying problems (mine died after engine reached what seemed to be excessive heat), what other parts do you suggest I keep spares of on hand?
Thanks. You guys are great and the wealth of knowledge and support is great here!!
Kevin
Given the wide range of possible hesitation/dying problems (mine died after engine reached what seemed to be excessive heat), what other parts do you suggest I keep spares of on hand?
Thanks. You guys are great and the wealth of knowledge and support is great here!!
Kevin
i would keep a 10mm socket and ratchet with the CPS at all times, as that is what it takes to change it.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,768
Likes: 0
From: Central Alabama
I finally gave into the hoopla about this CPS situation and bought a Blue CPS from Garett. Even though my stock black CPS is fine, I intalled the blue one anyway. The idle seems smoother and I could swear the engine sounds quieter. We"ll see if the blue holds up. The good thing about this whole thing is I have a spare in the glove box.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,647
Likes: 0
From: Fulltime RVer
If the CPS connector is the problem, why don't other connectors from all the other sensors cause similar problems? I replaced my CPS only to find that my problem was due to a loose pass-through connector inside the valve cover leading to the injectors.
