I have a 67 Ford F100 and wanting to paint it. The body is pretty straight I have couple dings and rust spots I need to fix then I can paint it. My question is do I have to sand and primer before I paint my truck or can I just sand and prep for paint and then paint right over old paint if its not chipping or fading? I am not looking for a show truck but something that looks good. Thanks for all info
Keith Prather

 

You have to spray anything with primer that is older than 2 years of age for starters. What paint companys have u looked at for paint?

 

I have'nt looked at any other than the trinity Inc. on ebay one guy said they were good just not sure how good. I am looking for a bright red do you have any good suggestions that isnt expensive?

 

WELL I DONT REALLY KNOW HOW EXPENSIVE SHERWIN WILLIAMS OR OTHER COMPANYS ARE OR IF THEY HAVE A CHEAPER PAINT LINE. i HAVE USED OMNI WHICH IS JUST A CHEAPER PAINT LINE MADE BY PPG COMPANY. IT IS AFFORDABLE BUT IT DOESNT COVER AS GREAT AS PPG THOUGH.
IF YOU CAN GET A HOLD OF OMNI IT DOES THE JOB, YOU JUST HAVE TO PUT AN EXTRA LAYER OR 2 MORE ON. IF YOU PICK A COLOR IN AN ENAMEL OR URETHANE YOU CAN HAVE IT MIXED FOR A BASE/CLEAR N SUCH.
ALSO ARE YOU PAINTING YOUR TRUCK THOUGHLY AS IN TAKING IT APART TOO? OR JUST TAPING OFF THINGS N NOT GETTIN THE FIREWALL N UNDER SIDES OF THINGS???

 

I use to use a bit of omni, but after taking 5 coats to get coverage on a blue cavalier I painted, I started using more limco for cheaper jobs where I am not using ppg dbc. It seems to cover just a little better and even got a blendable color match on a blue green grandprix and a white sunfire. The lower priced bases aren't such a bargain though if they take twice as many coats to get coverage as well as being not quite as easy to work with, more time spraying. You do not have to prime the whole car if there is good catalyzed or factory paint on there that is not peeling or anything, Doesn't matter if its over two years old. Only need to really prime where there is bodywork. Sealing might be a good idea though just to get easier coverage of the color if your changing color. That being said, on a truck that old, You may want to consider stripping it just to know what you are dealing with. That old a truck could have some surprises under the paint after that many years. And if its still original paint it may be lacquer which you want to get off. Take a rag and some lacquer thinner and see if it softens and removes paint leaving color on the rag. If it does, you probably will want to take the paint off and use a good catalyzed primer or sealer on the whole truck. I did use omni single stage urethane on an old car I still have, solid white. It was painted 5 years ago and is still holding up very well. About 100 a gallon with the hardener. It covered in three coats, but red is going to cost more, probably not cover as well, and without a clearcoat, reds are known to fade quicker then other colors.

 

What problems can you expect if you don't remove all the orginal paint if it is lacquer or if you've used a lacquer primer. Mine is original but I've not checked it yet. I only stripped it where I had to do body work, then sanded it smooth, roughed it up, and primed it with a lacquer-based primer. If this is wrong I need to know how to correct it now. thx.

 

Its just that lacquer products are outdated, and the primer shrinks a lot more then a urethane will, and sandscratches and rings around filler areas can possibly show up after awhile when it shrinks. Lacquer primer drys and sands fast, but it really should sit awhile and be allowed to shrink. Epoxy is about the best adhering to clean, sanded baremetal and is a barrier against moisture if the paint or something were to get scratched or chipped off in a spot, lacquer and urethane primer don't adhere quite as well I believe, and are porous. An activated product is also more resistant to chemicals, Although many people have used lacquer for a long time, todays products are better quality. With the price of paint and materials, and the work you will be putting in, you might as well start with a good foundation from the start. The lacquer products would be the weak link in system. I would at least seal with a 2k sealer over the lacquer to prevent against possible incompatability between the new paint and the lacquer and pick a color that will help with coverage of the base. I've used base clear over lacquer primer without problems, but don't believe its a recommended undercoat in some tech sheets. Never tried painting over a lacquer paint, vehicles haven't used lacquer for a long time, and I stripped the few older ones I did since they needed more than enough work anyways. At this point if you don't want to go back and use epoxy and then a urethane primer for any fill you need and ease of sanding, I would at least plan to use a 2k sealer or epoxy reduced as a sealer just prior to painting.

 

Check out Kirker paints www.smartshoppersinc.com

 

385 There is a Sherwin Williams here local. Do they sale automotive paints also or do you have to get it somewhere else. Also rebel I will check out the kirker paints. If I am going to paint my truck Red what color sealer do I need to use? to make it stand out? I saw Overhaulin and American Hot Rod one used Yellow ond the other used white ????

 

You probably seen a candy job being done where they use the sealer as a basecoat for the translucent candy which will allow the color underneath to show, and what color for your base will affect the final color as well as the number of candy coats applied. A standard base/clear job, you spray till you achieve coverage with your color and then spray 2-3 coats of clear. But that being said, reds and yellows are often poor covering colors, so getting it all one even color with sealer with the best shade to help coverage is a good idea and even if you put on several coats the sealer color underneath may still show some. I think for red I would use either a red-oxide color or medium to dark grey depending on how dark the red color is you are spraying. Something like black cherry or a real dark red, maybe black or dark sealer. Kirker may not have a system that tells you sealer color to spray for best coverage, but dupont has valueshade and ppg has similar. Sherwin williams may also have a system that will tell you when they look up the color formula. Sherwin williams sells automotive paint, if your store handles that part. Kirker isn't really for the collision repair industry with a library of the millions of different color formulas with tints and toners for a shop to mix there own paint to match based on a paint code so pick a shade of primer closest to what you are spraying if possible. Don't think I would use yellow under the red.

 

I thought sure, cause the owner posts on the forum, they are just for it because of the fact, and I like using paint I can pick up from a local supplier, But when so many of them that do it for a living and there paycheck depends on it have continued to use it, it might just be true that its reasonable and good stuff. And the owner takes the time to answer questions and even gives his personal cell phone number to call. I doubt you will find customer service that good from most other companys. I never used kirker myself so I can't comment one way or the other on it, and haven't tried spi yet either, but I will give some links just in case you want to look into spi also. Doesn't matter to me either way, what you buy won't put any money in my pockets. They carry viper red, and maybe some other reds, and are working on releasing more colors.

 

If you don't have good ventilation or a fresh air mask you might want to consider acrylic enamel- the urethanes with isocyianates(SP is off) can be very dangerous to breath. I'll be using the enamel myself unless I get to use a guy's paint booth. Basically we now have laq, acrilic laq, acrylic enamel and urethane..some poly as well and a company came out with some really cool water base that can be cleared with urethane. I'm liking epoxy primer followed by 2k build primer followed by epoxy again then based with acrylic enamel and urethane clear...i think. I've been out of this for over 15 years now.

 

urethanes are going to have iso's too. Don't think I would want to use a waterbase clear, and not sure they even make one. The 2k urethane primers have iso's too. Enamel if you use a hardener may have them too, not sure on that. Lacquer primer and paint won't have iso's but not the most durable of paint to use. Read the msds sheets, I think most of the hardeners you find today will have iso's, if you see a term like disocyanate in the msds, its got em. Cover all exposed skin and eyes, get plenty of ventilation, and wear a tight fitting respirator with new filters, but an air supplied respirator is recommended to error on the side of safety.
Heres one of the ingredients on the msds list for the sherwin williams dimension acrylic enamel hardener. Hexamethylene Diisocyanate Polymer.

 

Kenseth I do have a respirator to use just dont have paint booth. I have to wet the floors down in my shop pull in the truck and paint it. I have another question though. I was wanting to get a paint that has a good shine that does'nt have clear. Only reason is all these new cars today with clear most look like crap cause clear is chipping and falling off what should I do? If I really need the clear to get good shine how hard is it to spray? I am a novice to this never painted anything with a sprayer only odds and ends with the can. Also I want to go with something like a viper Red so what color sealer will I need? 385 sorry I missed you earlier on a question I am just gonna tape it and paint thought I would buy some rustoleum and paint the door jambs or something. Thanks guys I am really learning alot on painting hope it works out when it comes down to doing th job.

 

you can use a single stage but it isn't as good as base and clear- paints that have a problem with chipping.

Kenseth- aware of the any paint with hardner thing...not sure what I was thinking in that post. Acrylic enamel doesn't need a hardner- just sprayed some. The clear did.