Solid lifters or hydraulic, which are better?
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Solid lifters or hydraulic, which are better?
What is better. I dont get it, Im pretty sure the 2.8 had both solid rockers and lifters. Meaning every so often you had to adlust them as the cam and pushrods worn down, or got out of adjustment.
So how dose a hydrulic lifter work exactly. When i start my bronco II up (has a 2.9) for the first few seconds there very loud valve tapping. Then as the oil pressure builds it get quite as an idling sewing machine. My guess is that these lifter utilize oilpressure to self adjust themselves.
Is this the same thing non-solid rocker arms do?
Why dosent the bronco II have hydrulic rockers too?
This will give me a much better understanding of how all this stuff works, thanks all
So how dose a hydrulic lifter work exactly. When i start my bronco II up (has a 2.9) for the first few seconds there very loud valve tapping. Then as the oil pressure builds it get quite as an idling sewing machine. My guess is that these lifter utilize oilpressure to self adjust themselves.
Is this the same thing non-solid rocker arms do?
Why dosent the bronco II have hydrulic rockers too?
This will give me a much better understanding of how all this stuff works, thanks all
Last edited by Ken00; Mar 23, 2006 at 08:16 PM.
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From: South Jersey
You get better lift from a solid lifter (more power) but they need adjusting, hydraulic lifters can float and bleed down a little with high rpms.
A hydraulic lifter uses oil pressure to expend as need to maintain zero clerance in the valve train.
The noise your hearing could be low oil pressure to the lifters or lack of oil at the rockers, the top end oiling on the 2.9 was never that good, the free floating rocker mod really helps with this problem.
A hydraulic lifter uses oil pressure to expend as need to maintain zero clerance in the valve train.
The noise your hearing could be low oil pressure to the lifters or lack of oil at the rockers, the top end oiling on the 2.9 was never that good, the free floating rocker mod really helps with this problem.
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From: Racine county, WI
Originally Posted by fordxfour87
Is this the same thing non-solid rocker arms do?
Why dosent the bronco II have hydrulic rockers too?
Why dosent the bronco II have hydrulic rockers too?
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I was talking about free floating rocker arms, thanks for the info...My bronco upon start-up makes that ticking sound, which is normal, even in the manual it tells you the tappet sound is normal. Its makes sence since, when the motor sits, all the oil eventualy driains to the bottom end. I may have slightly leaking cam or crank bearings....which ill just subdue with thinker oil until i can do my 4.0 swap when the 2.9 dies.
I like my motor how it is, it dosent tick loud at all...so thicker oil will most likley qiute it up entirely
I like my motor how it is, it dosent tick loud at all...so thicker oil will most likley qiute it up entirely
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Pat Kunz posted this on another long gone site many moons ago.....
The parts required to do this modification are new rocker shafts, Aluminum to be made into spacers, possibly new pedestals if the old ones are pretty worn, and some new roll pins, and last but not least a good machine shop. The modifications include changing the rocker arm to shaft clearances by quite a bit, chamfering the oil holes in the shaft, running aluminum spacers instead of the springs, and thats about it. now I will give you the specs.: Shaft to rocker arm clearance .0025-.003in. (stock is .0013in.) rocker arm bore diameter should be around .7836-.7842in. Aluminum spacer to rocker arm side clearance of .010-.015 for each roker arm that, that spacer is used with so .020-.030in. for the rocker arms between the pedestals. (stock is 0 clearence between spring and rocker arm, it actually rides up against it).
The parts required to do this modification are new rocker shafts, Aluminum to be made into spacers, possibly new pedestals if the old ones are pretty worn, and some new roll pins, and last but not least a good machine shop. The modifications include changing the rocker arm to shaft clearances by quite a bit, chamfering the oil holes in the shaft, running aluminum spacers instead of the springs, and thats about it. now I will give you the specs.: Shaft to rocker arm clearance .0025-.003in. (stock is .0013in.) rocker arm bore diameter should be around .7836-.7842in. Aluminum spacer to rocker arm side clearance of .010-.015 for each roker arm that, that spacer is used with so .020-.030in. for the rocker arms between the pedestals. (stock is 0 clearence between spring and rocker arm, it actually rides up against it).
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whis i had the time and money to do that....but theres other mods on my truck im more concerned about right now.....being that i have a solid powerplant, i have to worry about the following.
Exhuast- Finally found a dual exhaust system i can cut to fit my bronco FINALLY!!!! (looked around quite a bit) hopefully gettin it for my birthday.
Tires- This is the most painfull...when i start saving up money from when i get a good paying job, ill be able to to get 30" super swampers...or alike. 30's becuase i can have bigger tires, but next to 0 rubbing. Ill go bigger when i do an axle swap, that can handle more stress. And when i get a liftkit.
Lightbar- not that important, but cool looking.
This isnt including a new clutch a may or maynot need, i dont know if the one on mine is really shot or not.
i also need a new battery, belts, filters, radiator needs to be flushed and coolant replaced.
I also need a good new paint job, and some professional body work done. ( i covered up most of the rust fine for now, but ill get it re-done professionaly)
Exhuast- Finally found a dual exhaust system i can cut to fit my bronco FINALLY!!!! (looked around quite a bit) hopefully gettin it for my birthday.
Tires- This is the most painfull...when i start saving up money from when i get a good paying job, ill be able to to get 30" super swampers...or alike. 30's becuase i can have bigger tires, but next to 0 rubbing. Ill go bigger when i do an axle swap, that can handle more stress. And when i get a liftkit.
Lightbar- not that important, but cool looking.
This isnt including a new clutch a may or maynot need, i dont know if the one on mine is really shot or not.
i also need a new battery, belts, filters, radiator needs to be flushed and coolant replaced.
I also need a good new paint job, and some professional body work done. ( i covered up most of the rust fine for now, but ill get it re-done professionaly)
