Warm air when on vent
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 692
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From: Fernandina Beach, Florida
Warm air when on vent
I have noticed that when my truck is set on just vent, outside air, it is always warm air. The other day it was in the 60's and the air felt like 80*. The A/C also does not blow very cold. I have a charge kit and plan to fill it today, if it needs it, but I think it goes back to the warm air problem. BTW I only have the factory temp. gauge now and it shows normal temp. New 203 therm and aluminum housing about 3 months ago.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
Likes: 12
From: 21791
you directed me to this from the other forum- i think your problem is the coolant that flows through the heater core when the heat or AC is on. look at this- and see if it is what you need.
From dieselsite:
"In a 1999-2003 Superduty(7.3L Powerstroke, V8 or V10) hot engine coolant is flowing through the heater core whenever the heat or Air Conditioning is turned on. The system does not differentiate between the two. This is fine when you are running your heater. However, running the Air Conditioner is a different story. When your AC is on, your cold air is not only flowing across the evaportator coil but it also flows across the heater coil which has hot engine coolant flowing through it. This results in a very inefficient air conditioning system in these vehicles.
This DIESELSITE Air Conditioning Control Valve will automatically shut off coolant flow through the heater core when MAX AC selected. The result is a decrease in duct temperature by 10 degrees or more which will be felt through your vent openings into the cab. This gets COLD!
Install takes about 15 minutes and requires no special tools. Everything you need is included in the kit. Full detailed instructions including color pictures are included. "
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...PROD&ProdID=21
From dieselsite:
"In a 1999-2003 Superduty(7.3L Powerstroke, V8 or V10) hot engine coolant is flowing through the heater core whenever the heat or Air Conditioning is turned on. The system does not differentiate between the two. This is fine when you are running your heater. However, running the Air Conditioner is a different story. When your AC is on, your cold air is not only flowing across the evaportator coil but it also flows across the heater coil which has hot engine coolant flowing through it. This results in a very inefficient air conditioning system in these vehicles.
This DIESELSITE Air Conditioning Control Valve will automatically shut off coolant flow through the heater core when MAX AC selected. The result is a decrease in duct temperature by 10 degrees or more which will be felt through your vent openings into the cab. This gets COLD!
Install takes about 15 minutes and requires no special tools. Everything you need is included in the kit. Full detailed instructions including color pictures are included. "
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...PROD&ProdID=21
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
Also directed here from the "other" forum.
In addition to the above, even though I personally DO have the above-mentioned vacuum-operated valve, if I were going to do it over, I would do what is very common among the OTR guys: just put a ball-valve in-line with one of the heater hoses. Not as "automatic", but you likely will only have to move the position of it a couple of times a season, at most.
And, the parts are available anywhere.
Pop
In addition to the above, even though I personally DO have the above-mentioned vacuum-operated valve, if I were going to do it over, I would do what is very common among the OTR guys: just put a ball-valve in-line with one of the heater hoses. Not as "automatic", but you likely will only have to move the position of it a couple of times a season, at most.
And, the parts are available anywhere.
Pop
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, MO
Guess, where I came from too??? 
Pop, you would do it differently, why? Mainly because of cost and a simpler system with a ball valve?
Edit: I remember Kwik posted something about moving the air intake location for the heater & A/C. As it is stock, it pulls from the drivers side, passes over the [hot] turbo, and into the cab. He blocked off that intake and opened up the passenger side intake. Search for it under threads started by Kwik.
Pop, you would do it differently, why? Mainly because of cost and a simpler system with a ball valve?
Edit: I remember Kwik posted something about moving the air intake location for the heater & A/C. As it is stock, it pulls from the drivers side, passes over the [hot] turbo, and into the cab. He blocked off that intake and opened up the passenger side intake. Search for it under threads started by Kwik.
Last edited by jtharvey; Mar 23, 2006 at 05:42 PM.
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Fernandina Beach, Florida
Originally Posted by strokin_it7.3
you directed me to this from the other forum- i think your problem is the coolant that flows through the heater core when the heat or AC is on. look at this- and see if it is what you need.
From dieselsite:
"In a 1999-2003 Superduty(7.3L Powerstroke, V8 or V10) hot engine coolant is flowing through the heater core whenever the heat or Air Conditioning is turned on. The system does not differentiate between the two. This is fine when you are running your heater. However, running the Air Conditioner is a different story. When your AC is on, your cold air is not only flowing across the evaportator coil but it also flows across the heater coil which has hot engine coolant flowing through it. This results in a very inefficient air conditioning system in these vehicles.
This DIESELSITE Air Conditioning Control Valve will automatically shut off coolant flow through the heater core when MAX AC selected. The result is a decrease in duct temperature by 10 degrees or more which will be felt through your vent openings into the cab. This gets COLD!
Install takes about 15 minutes and requires no special tools. Everything you need is included in the kit. Full detailed instructions including color pictures are included. "
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=21
From dieselsite:
"In a 1999-2003 Superduty(7.3L Powerstroke, V8 or V10) hot engine coolant is flowing through the heater core whenever the heat or Air Conditioning is turned on. The system does not differentiate between the two. This is fine when you are running your heater. However, running the Air Conditioner is a different story. When your AC is on, your cold air is not only flowing across the evaportator coil but it also flows across the heater coil which has hot engine coolant flowing through it. This results in a very inefficient air conditioning system in these vehicles.
This DIESELSITE Air Conditioning Control Valve will automatically shut off coolant flow through the heater core when MAX AC selected. The result is a decrease in duct temperature by 10 degrees or more which will be felt through your vent openings into the cab. This gets COLD!
Install takes about 15 minutes and requires no special tools. Everything you need is included in the kit. Full detailed instructions including color pictures are included. "
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=21
I was just concerned about the engine temp. getting too high and causing this.
Last edited by Beast12; Mar 23, 2006 at 05:57 PM. Reason: fixed QUOTE
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 692
Likes: 0
From: Fernandina Beach, Florida
Originally Posted by jtharvey
Guess, where I came from too???
Pop, you would do it differently, why? Mainly because of cost and a simpler system with a ball valve?
Edit: I remember Kwik posted something about moving the air intake location for the heater & A/C. As it is stock, it pulls from the drivers side, passes over the [hot] turbo, and into the cab. He blocked off that intake and opened up the passenger side intake. Search for it under threads started by Kwik.
Pop, you would do it differently, why? Mainly because of cost and a simpler system with a ball valve?
Edit: I remember Kwik posted something about moving the air intake location for the heater & A/C. As it is stock, it pulls from the drivers side, passes over the [hot] turbo, and into the cab. He blocked off that intake and opened up the passenger side intake. Search for it under threads started by Kwik.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,758
Likes: 7
From: colorado
i also think it has some to do with fact the turbo sits right under vent air intake and keeps it pretty warm
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Senior User
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop
Also directed here from the "other" forum.
In addition to the above, even though I personally DO have the above-mentioned vacuum-operated valve, if I were going to do it over, I would do what is very common among the OTR guys: just put a ball-valve in-line with one of the heater hoses. Not as "automatic", but you likely will only have to move the position of it a couple of times a season, at most.
Pop
In addition to the above, even though I personally DO have the above-mentioned vacuum-operated valve, if I were going to do it over, I would do what is very common among the OTR guys: just put a ball-valve in-line with one of the heater hoses. Not as "automatic", but you likely will only have to move the position of it a couple of times a season, at most.
Pop
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Good memory JTHarvey.
Here's the thread that I started. After some time has gone by I have found that it helped but not completly cured the problem.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=459570
.
Here's the thread that I started. After some time has gone by I have found that it helped but not completly cured the problem.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=459570
.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
Reason I'd do it differently if I had to do it over again? I prefer "manual control", and there's less to go wrong.
Heck, I can find the hood release.
Ask Kwik how his glow plugs operate, and why....
Same reason.
Pop
Heck, I can find the hood release.
Ask Kwik how his glow plugs operate, and why....
Same reason.
Pop
Last edited by SpringerPop; Mar 23, 2006 at 11:00 PM.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, MO
I figured it was something like that. Now to just go get some brass ball valves before it starts getting hot around here. Do you happen to know what the ID is of the heater hose running into the cab?
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 692
Likes: 0
From: Fernandina Beach, Florida
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
Good memory JTHarvey.
Here's the thread that I started. After some time has gone by I have found that it helped but not completly cured the problem.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=459570
.
Here's the thread that I started. After some time has gone by I have found that it helped but not completly cured the problem.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=459570
.
Also thank eveyone for coming over to help!
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, MO
Originally Posted by SpringerPop
Virtually certain it's the standard 5/8" heater hose.
Pop
Pop