Posted earlier when my 96' Powerstroke F250, 7.3, shuts off and when trying to restart the engine and it doesn't hit a lick and it spins over real fast now, all of the time. Starts cold everytime and runs fine until it gets hot. Replaced the CPS, oil, filter, HOP tank is always full. Now, it stopped while driving down the road but restarted after about 15 minutes and ran 5 miles till I parked it again. No leaks and only 115k on truck with no work ever done on engine. Fuel is clean and filter is fairly new. Previous response thought it may be the HP pump but I hate to start replacing expensive parts and not have an idea which one until I accidently hit it. Which scanners read the Powerstroke?

 

Its the IPR orings. That is a very common problem when your truck wont start hot. Here is a link on the ipr.....

http://cw-diesel.com/LuxSite/IPRInfo.htm

I bet others will chime in with the same response!
The o-rings on the end of the IPR will corrode and will allow the hot oil to go by and not build pressure. I helped fix a buddy's truck with the same problem.

 

Hey, I am still learning about all of these motors and stuff but where are you at I work a ton of hours but if you can get close to me I would be willing to scan it for free. But sorry I can't go on any long trips. I'm in Tennessee.


I think previous post has your answer to the problems also though.

 

Itfox, Thanks for the quick response! I will do the rings next, especially since that's not nearly as painful as the other fixes. What would you look at next if this doesn't fix it? What else are common problems with no starts when hot? Do the O-rings on the injectors go bad often or just at long mileage intervals?
Smuzz, thanks for the offer to scan, I'm in West Knoxville.

 

I dunno why they go bad? The ones I have seen have about 1/4 of the oring on one side blown out. I'd almost put money on that being the problem. Good thing I dont gamble alot!!LOL Let us know how it goes.

 

HEY. Knoxville isn't a bad trip for me maybe hour and half if you get in a tight just send me a message and I will try and make it up your way. But I agree with ltfox on this problem.

 

thanks guys, it sounds and looks like an easy fix. I'll go out on the web and find the seals today. Appreciate all the help

 

Replaced mine last night based on the forum advice. Maybe an easy fix, took 4 hrs. mainly due to inexperience. Next time I figure 2 hrs. Here are some pointers.
1) Finding it was 1/2 the problem. Locate fill plug on top of the HOP tank, look behind it and straight down, down…

2) Letting the air out of the front tires drops the truck 6”. Easier to work on. Saved the nads.

3) Had to disconnect the fuel lines and most other connections to the fuel filter assembly in order to get my hand down to the IPR. If you can’t remove the fuel assembly then someone will have to hold the hoses out of the way while you work. I roped in a buddy.

4) Follow the directions on http://cw-diesel.com/LuxSite/IPRInfo.htm upto the point of creating a custom tool. A 1 1/8” box wrench works just fine. Took a while, could only turn the valve 1/12 of a rotation at a time, but it works. Besides, 1 1/8” sockets are pricey.

5) When the valve came out, the O-ring had a definite blow out. Put a big smile on my face to know I was on the right track.

6) Replacement kit from Ford, was $66.82 Cnd. Are these special rings or could any old 25 cent ring work? I feel that Ford got rich off me.

7) Put everything together, starts first crank, cold, hot.

db

 

I'm going to tackle mine tonight. Thanks for the advice and I hope this is the fix for me also. I called the local International dealer and they said they had a kit for $14 bucks, I'll let you know how that works out. I did find some kits on the web from $25 to $35 bucks also.

 

Well......I removed the IPR and put a new kit in but honestly didn't see any problems with the IPR except that the seal around the solenoid was melted inside the connector. The kit is best bought from an International dealer for $18 including tax. I flushed the HOP with some fresh oil but didn't see anything in the system. I fired it up and so far, no problems after about a hundred miles. I am cautiously optimistic, but it seems fixed. The easiest way to remove the IPR is to remove the three electrical connectors in front of it, remove the fuel line to the front of the fuel/water separator, loosen the separator so you can move it back an inch or two and use a long 1 1/8" offset box wrench. I did it all by myself in about 4 hours but could cut that time quite abit the next time.