first i cannot get my 302 engine to turn over by hand , all was fine until i hooked the tranny to it . all i did to the engine was remove the oil pan and checked the mains and rods too see if they were ok . and they were . i then removed one head to check cylinder wear ,it was good there too. i turned the engine over by hand about three revs . i then installed the c-4 which i removed from another engine . now it's back in the truck i thought for grins i would turn it over by hand because it's been sitting in their for about 3 - 4 weeks. and it will not budge . any thoughts as too what it might be? second once i get this problem fixed i would like to know how too hot wire this engine without using the ignition switch . thanks

 

Well, if it turned over before you hooked up the tranny, then I would say your problem lies somewhere in that area. I would suspect that the torque converter isn't sitting properly in the pump or maybe the tranny is in gear. I'm just throwing out ideas here. Are you trying to start it, or turn it by hand?

 

I had a similar problem once, the converter was did not seat in the pump and was up against the pump housing of the trans, of course, it knocked the pump housing out of whack and I had to have it rebuilt, I would start with the trans. Good luck.

 

Dittos on the same problem; I bent the flex plate in the process.

 

ok ,thanks guys . i am just trying to turn it over by hand at this point. i did get some time to see if i had over looked something in the engine . since i did install a new oil pump and screen . with the distributor removed and the spark plugs out it still won't turn . so my next step i guess is to back track into the tranny . i know i torqued the bolts on the flex plate and the nuts on the convertor to the correct ft/lbs. the only thing i can think of is when they c-4 was removed from the other vehicle the long center shaft fell out when i was standing the trans on end to clean the crap off the case. i reinstalled it by standing the tranny on the tail and wiggled the tranny alittle and it went back in place . any other thoughts ? thanks

 

I think they've identified the problem for you; It's something in the t.c. The "dogs" on the torque converter hub (on the rear of the t.c.) need to align with the mating tangs on the front pump, or the t.c. will stand out about 1/2" too far. When this happens, usually you can't even get the t.c. bolted up to the flex plate. Since you apparently did get it bolted up, the other possibility is that the long shaft you refer to did not seat in its splines inside the t.c. or in the trans, which is a similar situation. The splines need to go thru a couple of stators/rotors inside the t.c., and thru multiple planetary sets inside the trans. There are also several thrust washers inside the trans that could have become dislodged when you where flipping the trans around with the long shaft out -- might be worth pulling the pan to check!!

It's hard to believe you could get the t.c. bolted up and bolt the case to the engine if either situation exists, but it has happened to me...

Did you rotate the t.c. with it assembled on the trans, before ever bolting it up? It's remotely possible that the front pump is locked up, but honestly I've never seen that happen. There are also a bejillion different C-4 t.c.'s and pumps; are these a matched pair? You can't swap around very much.

When everything is meshing properly, you should be able to undo the flex plate to t.c. nuts and slide the t.c. back away from the flex plate enough for the studs on the t.c. to completely clear the flex plate, by a good margin. (with the trans case still bolted to the engine) If you can't do that, something's wrong!

 

Ditto,
When installing a torque converter you need to spin it while pushing it into the trans, some trannys are trickier than others. As its been said, the TC need to engage in several sets of splines and then into the "dogs" on the pump. Spin the heck out of it with one hand while lifting andpushing in with the other. When its all the way in it should look like the TC is almost touching the bellhousing.

As for hotwiring, thats an easy one. I learned how to hotwire fords when I was aobut 11 (I got a major whipping for driving dads truck around the block) You can do it all right at your starter solenoid. The solenoid should have 2 large studs and 2 small studs (some just have one small stud). 1 large stud come from the battery, the other goes to the starter, one small stud comes from the ignition switch and the other goes to the ignition coil
Make sure the truck is in neutral or park!!
For the soleniods with the 2 small studs;
1st, Jumper a wire from the large stud that goes to the battery to the small stud that goes to the ignition coil (usually the small stud is next to the large stud that goes to the starter). Now the ignition is energized with 12 volts
2nd, Take a screwdriver or something similar and short it across the large stud that goes to the battery and the small stud closest to it (this will energise the solenoid and send juice to the starter.

If your solenoid only has the one small stud;
1st, run a jumper wire from the positive battery to the ignition coil.
2nd, short across the battery terminal and the small terminal with a screwdriver as before.

good luck
Bobby

 

ok , i wiil give it a try it won't be tonight though . ihave to do a rear brake job on the wifes pathfinder .( one of those hunny the truck is making a funny sound deals lol., how long has it been doing it ? about a week ugh.. i will get back on the effie as soon as i can . and i will get back in touch . as for the major whipping , sounds like my dad . oh well i still love the guy and that was over 25 years ago . thanks for the help .

 

LOL, yea the ol' man is a great guy and I love him daerly. I deserved every last whippin' I got. If i caught my boy driving my truck around the block I'd whip him too.

Good luck with the honey dos
Bobby

 

hey guys , it is now turning over seems that the torq did not seat all the way. of course i must take the blame i tried to put the convertor on the flexplate and then install to the engine . i know now ( THAT WON'T WORK ) LOL . i pulled everything back apart and checked everything seems i might have lucked out all looked good . now i have one question , there is a steel line that comes out of the rear of the tranny that connects to a vacuum source can someone help me as where it goes . i had an extra pair of hands helping me lol . and i can't find the way this goes . thanks

 

Glad you found the problem. That line is for the vacuum modulator and it effects your shift points. It needs to be hooked up to a vacuum source on the intake manifold.

 

thanks , live and learn lol. yes thats the vacuum line i need to how it runs along the back of the engine . when i try to install it the way i think it would run, the routing is not right . anyone happen to have photos? thanks

 

Do you have the steel line? There should be a steel line and you would put on about 6 inches of vacuum hose on each end to connect it. If you have all of that, then there are only 2-ways it can go on, in that case go with what looks right. You should be able to tell by the bends in the line. Also, there might be a little clip on the side of the tranny that it would snap into holding it in place.

 

got all of that . i have the rubber hose that mounts to the mod. valve and the steel line and the clip. but for some strange reason the bends just don't look right . i don't think anything as damaged . i seem to remember the top of the steel line attached to the rear of the engine block just behind the intake but for the life of me when set it in that way the bend at the valve end is not going the right way and the clip is no where near the steel line and it doesn't matter which way i put the line it won't align up . oh well i will try again saturday . thanks

 

I usually buy about 3 feet of vac hose and use tie staps, run it right up the tranny dipstick tube, then to the tree on the manifold.
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