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Okay...want to get this truck about 500 miles away...motor is not in it so I can't drive it back. Has anyone hauled a truck in a Ryder...say 24 footer? I tried looking into car haulers but they want from $800--$900 to do that....way out of my price. Any advice...my 67 has the motor 352...but I don't have a flatbed to haul it with and I am not too sure if I want to put that much on my motor for 500 miles... ???? Thanks...anything appreciated
I know for a fact that it is against the law to haul a vehicle in the back of a ryder or U-haul truck. There also is no place to really tie it down properly. If you take your time pulling it back with your truck you should be fine. The other option is to rent their p-up and tow dolly and tow it with that.
Tow dolly...that sounds like an option. I have been looking on the uhaul site and I can rent a car hauler either for the back of a uhaul truck or my own truck.... but since I need to take the uhaul anyhow...it seems like a good idea. The truck I am towing has the motor out of it so I need to pull it up...always something.....thanks
If you decide to go the dolly route, make sure the track width of the vehicle you tow isn't too wide for the dolly. I just towed my donor Bronco with one, and Uhaul's dolly was too narrow! I suggest you take some stock rims w/narrow tires. I did finally find a dolly and it was pretty close with the rim/tire combo on the Bronco. Not so much the tires, but the offset of the rims.
I put a truck in a "Budget" 24 foot box truck. Everyone I talked to told me I was crazy but it worked out fine in the end.
To do it I had to find a loading dock to get the truck into the rental truck (Kmart in Jantzen Beach, WA)and out of it (Longs Drugs, Santa Cruz, CA). The first loading dock was unattended and availible to anyone who chose to drive up. The second one was the best I could find after three hours of prowling around and I had to ask a stockboys permission. He didn't much care what anyone did.
The other thing I did was cut 8 3 1/2" round holes in the wooden floor of the rental truck so I could chain my truck to the frame of the rental. My truck has load leveling air springs on it so I chained the bumper of my truck to the frame of the rental and then pumped up the load levelers until the chain was so tight it had zero give. I used a ratcheting 2" binder strap to cinch down the front to the rentals frame. Make sure you use something to prevent chafing or the strap will break in less than fifty miles (it happened to me)
When I was all done I just glued the eight cores from the holesaw back into their respective holes and sprinkled a bit of sawdust into the saw kerf to make it less obvious. Make sure you have a means of supporting them absolutely flush while the glue cures.
If I didn't have the air bags to tension my chain I could have either used some truckers chain binders or just let the air out of my tires and then pumped them back up.
The whole process worked fine and saved me hundreds of dollars on a one way rental but I wouldn't recommend it to anyone who doesnt thrive on a challenge.
Putting a vehicle in a rental truck does show a little ingenuity, It has been done b4 and will be done again even though it may be illegal.
Cutting 3-1/2" holes (or any holes) in the floor of a rental truck would seem to me to be "destruction of private property" that could get someone in trouble (time in front of a judge or paying for a new floor). But more importantly it is not a polite, responsible, or moral act. One of those things like people say; "Didn't your mother teach you any better than that". You may get away with it, but it is just plain wrong! Think about the next person that has to use that rental equipment.
Use a flat bed trailer or a dolly to move a vehicle.
You obviousley put alot of thought into this. But what would have happened if you had wrecked the truck? insurance would not cover you as you would have been improperly using truck and had signed an agreement stating that you wouldn't do what you did. Not to mention that I am sure that no one liked having the floor cut up in the truck.
Good points Eric and DJ, I can't argue your well made points about my questionable actions. I have sufficient background in Wood floor finishing I feel quite good about the integrity of my repairs though I agree I would be quite outraged if someone were to be cutting and patching holes in my own truck. I couldn't resist putting my two cents in to a related query but I didn't put a lot of time reflecting on the moral implications. Thanks for setting me straight.
Will the glue hold up to the steel wheels on a pallet jack loaded with 1500# of machinery or goods? And what about the guy standing next to the pallet load when it tips over and pins him against the wall or breaks an arm? What happens when someone steps on those cores after that glue has weathered for a year or so and has the heel of his boot go thru the floor spraining his ankle, wrenching a knee, or worse yet, falls and smashes his head open?
You really have to think when you are working on or with heavy equipment. Every action can have unintended consequences.
As far as restraining the vehicle, -were there bolts in the floor holding it to the frame? Could some of those bolts have been removed and replaced with your own bolts to secure the straps? You could have replaced the original bolts after you were done with no harm done.
But I guess you have seen the error in your ways by now. Enough said?
btw- I have to use those rental trucks half a dozen times a year to transport equipment. Ordinary wear and tear is bad enough without abuse.
Not that I am adovacing cutting holes in the floor of a rental truck, but I was always under the impression that a glued wood joint when done properly is strong than the wood itself. Just like a weld is stronger that the metal welded to if done right.
In this case there is a large gap in the joint, not a tight glued and clamped joint. Adhesives are usually not very strong when filling a gap. There is also a problem with weathering and thermal expansion etc. Those nice finger jointed pieces of wood fail and fall apart rapidly when exposed to the elements, and they are precise, clamped, and tight joints.
Welds if properly done are very strong but there are other factors in the welding process that often make a simple but-weld joint weaker than an intact seamless piece of metal.
Why can't there be just a broker for hauling purposes,to simplify
the matter. You know like a semi rig with a flat bed low boy...
I have always wanted to find something like that, can you or somebody find out a way to hire a trucker....
Check out the hauling section on the yesterday tractor webiste.
http://www.ytmag.com/
They have a area for people to list there hauling needs - dates- $$. Maybe you'll get lucky and someone will be coming back your way empty.
UHaul rentals are pretty inexpensive a car a carrier will cost you less than $50.00 a day. Pick up when they close in the evening drive the 500 miles - get the item drive the return leg -second thought go to ytmag sight and find someone to pick it up for you.
hi,
you said you have a truck that could haul it, but are looking for a trailer. (at least thats how I understand your post.)
Go to u-haul, ryder, et al. Rent a car trailer. a full size one. if they wont rent it to you for whatever reason, then go to a rental store (like the kind who rent-out bobcats, tractors, yard machines) and I bet they have the trailer you are looking for.
I strongly advise against the back of a Ryder, as mentioned the liability of this could be astronomical. Also...if you hit something, that truck is coming forwards...into you.
I would agree with the earlier post about picking it up before closing time. Its only 1000 miles round trip. you could be back in a day. so realisticaly a one day rental.
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