302 build up?
For the 302/5.0 many parts will interchange from the 289, but about the only parts from the 351w that will work are the heads, due to taller deck height and larger main bearing journals. 351C heads can be used, but with the plethora (I love that word!) of excellent aftermarket heads available these days, there's little point in doing so unless one wishes to build a mock Boss 302. The 351C crank was also used in some early stroker kits, but it had some strength issues caused by the resizing of the journals to fit the 302 block. Now there are good aftermarket stroker cranks available quite reasonably. You can figure on a potential 500 hp with a stock block before you need to step up to an aftermarket block.
The 429/460 and the FE series are two other entirely different engine families, so there really isn't anything that can be used from them.
So anyway, I've touched on several different bases here. Stick around and do some snooping through back pages of this forum, you'll learn a lot about what works and what doesn't.
I had joined a forum for Rangers because I had some certain questions regarding my 5.0 swap and they had a lot of info there, including an entire section dedicated to the swap. But I was rather disgusted to see the mods and other users continuously telling new users to search rather than answer their questions, actually berating them in some cases. Yeah, it does get a little old answering some questions over and over, but that's what the stickies and FAQs are for.
Here, we pride ourselves on the personal touch! That's part of what makes FTE what it is!
(Okay, shameless cheerleading over...
)
Thanks. Maybe you can teach an old dog new tricks????
I knew the 289/302 was mostly the same, and some of the 351w.
I guess I just need to bore and stroke what I have and put on aftermarket intake and 4bbl.
My 73 will be a working truck, but it will run, and look good. Most of what I want to do is "sound"..... You know, like the boss stang off of gone in 60 seconds.... Loved that sound.........
I want it to sound as if it has 500 hp. Cam, lifters, headers, and 4bb intake and 2 4's, or 3 dueces working as a 4bbl....
Looks, and sound.
Thanks again........
David
A 4bbl. intake/carb is just fine, but it should be a dual plane manifold, not single plane, open plenum. Headers are always a good addition, but you should favor long tubes with smaller diameters. A cam that has a lumpy idle is, for the most part, designed more for high RPM applications.
If you were to take a motor built for 7000 RPM blasts in a Mustang and swap it into your truck, you'd most likely be a bit disappointed. If you had really low gears that kept the revs up in the higher reaches it would be a bit better, but you'd find yourself having to work a lot of overtime to keep gas in the tank.
Rest assured, you can still do some mods to your motor that will give you better performance, look good when you pop the hood, sound great and still deliver reasonable fuel economy.
What kind of budget do you have for this? Is an extra grand or so for aftermarket aluminum heads within the reaches of possibility?
Thanks for the tips. I wont be building a starting line truck, but a top end truck.
Correct me if I am wrong, but what you were saying about losing performance applies from take off. I will lose a quick start? I want more of a "moonshine" type truck. A sleeper. Looks good, sounds good, runs good on top end....
I will change the gear ratio in the axle (or change it all together), put a timing chain and gear, dome pistons, cam ( equivalent of the Mopar purple shaft with a 484 lift and duration), lifters, plane and 3 angle the heads, 4bbl intake and carb with headers and 3 inch straight pipes. Maybe put some Thrush's on it. That or Flowmasters? Maybe none at all......
It wont be quick off the start, but it will have a good 150 MPH top end.... No, it wont be a quarter mile, or eighth mile drag truck. That is where the sound effects will come in......
Having the grand for the aluminum heads is ok. My question is this......
What would (does) aluminum heads have to offer over factory cast iron that have been planed, and ground properly? I know they look good though. Maybe a weight difference?
As you are experienced with Fords, and have to "educate a former (still avid) Mopar fan on the intricacies of the 302" ...
Thanks....
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The stock axles in ford trucks are pretty good. I'm not sure what year your F100 is but it;s probably a 9 inch. If it's newer it's 8.8. both are good rears.
A gear swap should do you.
Go 351W.
Aluminum heads will let you go a point higher on your compression ratio without detonation, plus about 50 pounds lighter. Definately helpful for a high speed runner. Trickflow gets my vote on bang per buck. You could go to 10:1 and still easily run pump gas.
You can get a 351w to do a good 1/4 mile and get your top end. Just watch the weight it adds up quick.
Get a newer 351w and you can go with a roller cam for a few bonus ponies and longer cam and lifter life.
Get your motor ready and call comp cams for your cam. If you want a real sick custom grind then call Crower, but it's gonna cost you.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
How much flow are we talking about? Enough that will make a difference on a 3 or 400 horse engine? 2 or 300 horse? Or are we talking about a 5 or 600 horse difference?
Enough for the added expense?
Thanks,




