On monday I am taking my truck in for a quote and later repairs. I have a F-250 XLT Lariet with the 7.3 nonturbo, I am going to have them look at glow plugs/controller, batteries, and something I think has to do withthe fuel system. This problem came off and on once every couple of months. After starting up the engine starts to die. Even if you try to raise the engine speed it will die, then it will not start. I think the problem is loose wires on the fuel transfer switch (the one under the truck). When the truck first died the next day I started looking at the fuel system (I am not too familiar with a diesel), I folled the lines too what I have been told on here is the fuel switch. Small electrical box with 6 fuel lines connected within the frame under and behind the driverside cab. First time I pushed on the wires and was able to start te truck. Month or so later the same thing happened and I was able to fix it the same way. This time I am unable to try and start the truck since my batteries are dead (trying to start + cold weather 850cca each) I am unable to. I know that my plugs and controller are dead and I am havine the batteries replaced by two 1000cca Interstate batteries. Motorcraft plugs and controller are replacements also. Besides the unknow problem that I stated, (possible switch) is there anything else that I should have them check for that is a known problem.

 

Just a question, I had my headlight switch go out to where my running lights and dash lights did not opperate for some time. I was able to rig some makesift lights with red running lights and some deep cycle batteries. Back to the question, I replaced the switch with a new one that worked for a couple of weeks before dying. Is this a typical problem. Also when I opened the dash to replace the swith, I found that a wire in the wiring housing had apparently came loose, got heated, and melted some of the housing around it. The wire was secured and I had normal operation for a while. Later with the addition of the new switch I added a new wiring harness however this did not fix the continuing problem. One day after being bored I started playing with the wiring harness with 2 screw-drivers. The large black wire and the other wires while they were still in there places. With this problem, when the running and dash lights did not work, the beeper for having the door open with the lights on did not work also. Leaving the door open and the headlights on, useing the main black wire as the central hub I began touching the wires one at a time to see if the problem could be fixed. I think that ther was 3 wires that I could connect too to fix the lights, and they would turn off when they were supposed to be. From the main black to this I put a bit of 14 gauge automotive wire between the two. This other wire is I think on the ouside of the bracket inline with the main black but I do not know for sure (it has been awile since I looked). Is there a better way to do this to fix the problem. What is the sole function of that wire I spliced, not the main black. Is it a good fix that should last. Any opinions will be helpful. Thanks

 

Just in case you are wondering it is a 1988.

 

First don't jump off the bridge yet..........

The switch under the drivers side is the FSV fuel selector valve, it just changes the the tank from where the fuel comes from and returns to. After the selected tank change is complete, the fuel level is the last thing to read out on the dash.

As for the lighting problem how many extra lights do you have installed, the switch will only handle a certain amount of power draw before burning up. Consider the headlight mod.......
https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...r_Brights.html

Your batteries may be dead but you may have burned up the starter too, have them both tested at Azone........if you need it the Mitsubishi gear reduction starter is the best replacement.

Why are the GPs and controller dead....... did you test them.

Email me and I will send some tests to you.........just click on my name and send email.

 

Only the standard lights are connected to the headlight switch nothing more. When trying to start and the batteries being dead, I engaged the starter for a few sections before stopping and trying altering something else that might be the problem. The batteries were already low because of cold and loose alternator belt (fixed now). The starter is fairly new and has not had a lot of stress on it (continous cranking). As for the glow plugs, they failed the light test and are new as of about 1 year ago but after about about two months after being installed they died (light test, 1/2 second to nothing for wait to start light). I have heard that the early death of glow plugs is the controller being bad.