Did you check the crankcase position sensor? With the key on you should have about 1.5 volts on one of the leads and ground. A bad sensor or bad connection to the sensor could cause no spark.

 

Sorry about the delay, my son and husband have the flu
I picked up an OBD2 autoscanner--and no codes at all come up.
I picked up a fuel pressure tester--and absolutely no pressure at all.
But I have 12 volts standing at the wire on the injectors.

Am I right to be thinking the fuel pressure regulator?

 

With the fuel pressure tester on the valve, turn the key on and off several times. Listen for the fuel pump to make a whirring sound for 2-3 seconds on each key on cycle. After 3-4 cycles, verify the fuel pressure tester reads in the 35-45 psi range. It should hold pressure for quite some time but MAY blead off gadually if the pressure regulator is working properly.
If you do NOT hear the pump run, post and we will go from there.
If it does run, but no pressure on the gague (or very small amount), then either
1. Fuel pump is not pumping (pump bad/ strainer stopped up/ pickup tube broken)
2. Filter is stopped up or collapsed/blocked fuel line
3. Fuel Pressure Regulator is totally defunct

Dialtone

 

The fuel filter has less than 500miles on it.
I replaced the fuel pressure regulator, retested with fuel pressure tester and still absolutely no psi reading. Perhaps I am hearing something other than the fuel pump starting up when I turn the key, and thought it was the pump. Let's assume the pump isn't starting up and go from there I guess. I am begining to realize that while I have the patience for repairs, I don't have a big enough wallet, granted the diagnostic tools I have picked up will be handy in the future but for this problem their not earning their way. Thanks

 

Alright a buddy of mine suggested the compression test where you remove one spark plug, stick your finger in the hole and have someone start it--the compression should shove your finger out of the hole indicating good compression--which it did.
He also suggested taking the air cleaner hose off the front of the intake manifold, open the butterfly with the throttle cable and shoot in some gas or ether, if it starts then it's definetly a fuel problem--which mine started and would run for about 1min. or so (I used a 2 ounce horse syringe to shoot gas in) however when using this method I recommend shooting in the gas then closing the butterfly Then starting it. The way I started trying it was open the butterfly, shoot in gas While someone starts it--this resulted in all the arm hair being burned off my left arm when it "backfired" through the intake LOL thus close the butterfly prior to starting.

 

It doesn't matter how many miles on the fuel filter you have. If you got a load of crap gas then it will stop up in a heartbeat.

LISTEN TO ME!!!!! Take the line off the fuel filter from the tank, cycle the key on and off, and see if any gas is pumped out of the line. If so, then the fuel filter is stopped up. Replace it and be prepared to drop the tank and clean the garbage out and replace the filter again.
If not then the fuel pump in the tank is not functioning and It doesn't matter if you have all the compression in the world, if you do not get gasoline to the cylinders IT WILL NEVER FIRE>

Dialtone

 

Alright, pulled the line from the tank off the fuel filter, cycled the key on and off, and no gas at all comes out of that line. And there's no sound of the pump under there either. And hey, I'm still learning this, try to have patience and not YELL at me. I'm already catching plenty of crap from my husband for even attempting to fix this myself instead just letting a shop rape me on labor. Even with the tools I have bought and the few parts I've replaced, and after I buy the fuel pump assembly I'll still come in cheaper than a shop for the same work. I've been busting my *** on this and have often said how much I appreciate your help-- which I do--but I can only stand to have one man having a fit at me at a time.

 

LOL....one man having a fit at a time....OK, I understand completely, but I have been trying to point you in that direction for a week or so to avoid you needlessly dumping money at the problem.
This is a simple exercise in logic, and all roads point to the fuel pump at this point.
Now you need to decide if the fuel pump is defective, or you are not getting power to it.
Since you do NOT hear it run when key is cycled, start off by verifying the power leads to the pump get 12 volts when the key is cycled.
The 12 volts comes from the Pump relay (which you said you replaced), runs thru the crash shutoff box (usually located on the transmission hump near the dash), then on to the fuel pump.
First step is to locate the crash shutoff box, push the "reset" button and try to start. If no, then remove the wiring connector and verify 12 volts from the relay. Remember, the relay is only energized for 2-3 seconds after key on unless the key is rotated to the crank position, in which case it will remain energized during cranking and then afterwards if the engine starts, all of this is controlled by the "computer".
If no 12 volts present, then you have a problem in the relay or associated wiring. If 12 volts present, reconnect the wire connector, insert a straight pin thu the wire insulation on the lead going to the pump and verify 12 volts is getting thru the crash sensor
If so, proceed to the wiring connector at the tank/ fuel pump and again verify 12 volts on pump power wire.
If so, the pump is defective and needs to be changed out.
No small job as you will need to drop the tank and replace from the topside of the tank.


Not yelling mind you, just strongly suggesting,,,hint,,,hint

Dialtone

 

OK in case you didn't get the PM. I tested the crash box and get 12v but the white plastic connector that the wires lead into for the box are a bit melted. I popped up the button, pushed it down--remembered to reconnect my fuel filter (this is a pain, it hasn't clicked yet but it's on and not leaking--however I will go back down there and work with it til it clicks tight) I turned the key and she started, runs smooth, responded to the gas pedal and no codes have come up yet. So do I replace the crash box? or the crash box and the wiring? and I don't quite see how this would have allowed her to stall and then come back up while driving--I mean Obviously this is the problem but as for understanding how it works, I'm confused,--I thought the crash box was strictly to cutoff power to the pump...........so how can it shut it off and let it come back so many times before shutting off completely without popping the button up? I'm so happy she ran!

 

At this point, I would not replace the crash box (inertia switch is the proper term). What you described as a "melted " connector is probably of more concern and most likely the cause of the on-again-off-again nature of your problem.

For now, drive it around for 2-3 days and observe if you get any more symptoms like before. If so, I would be tempted to get a new wiriing harness/connector and cut out the old and splice a new one in. If the internal connector wire terminals look burnt (not shiney metal), (as if they have been hot) then they will produce a high-resistance connection that heats up (just like a toaster) and degrades even more over time.

Now you know the source of the problem, you can address a proper fix as time allows.

Good work on tracking all this stuff down. Look how much you learned about your vehicle, and all this info can be applied to ANY other vehicle with minor variations.

P.S. Make sure to re-verify that filter connection. You do not need a gasoline fire destroying the vehicle after all this effort to fix it.

Dialtone

 

Fuel Filter Reverified, clicked on ready to go.

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, You have been a HUGE help in this process, I couldn't have done it without your advice (many times over lol) Most of the folks around here, I would trust with a power tool let alone a my car LOL Hee Hee and my husband even thanked me for all my work when he heard it run.........I knew me and you would get it figured out even though a few days ago a hammer and match sounded pretty good Thanks again you're a good man for taking all that time to help me out.

My advice: Now don't let all these compliments go to your head, you will have to fit out your front door sometime to work on your own rig.