engine flush
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Senior User
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engine flush
i read in another post about doing an engine flush to clean the varnish and what have you out of the inside of the engine. now is this a procedure or an additive as they recomended "gunk" in a can.
also im not a mechanic but mechanicly inclined. i also read cleaning the throtle body helps on higher milage engines which mine is.now is this somthing i should have a shop do or is it pretty easy to do on your own keeping in mind i have never done it.
one more, (sorry) is there a way to clean the mass air flow sensor ?
thanks in advance
also im not a mechanic but mechanicly inclined. i also read cleaning the throtle body helps on higher milage engines which mine is.now is this somthing i should have a shop do or is it pretty easy to do on your own keeping in mind i have never done it.
one more, (sorry) is there a way to clean the mass air flow sensor ?
thanks in advance
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,899
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From: Lynnwood, WA
There's Auto RX that need to be used over a period of time and miles (search for it)
; and there's also ATF (
) and "Engine Flush" sold in parts stores. For the latter 2, you let oil level drop to close to the bottom of the acceptable level, than add a bottle of ATF or engine flush, or until close to level is reached on the crosshair marks. Then idle the engine for at least 15 - 20 mins, or drive t lightly for a while. Drain oil very thoroughly -- I often drain it in the evening, put in the new filter, put back the plug, but no oil. I remove the plug again in the morning -- and I usually get another pint or so oil out. This ensures the most of the old oil is out.
If you think you engine is very dirty, don't drive with a flush in it as the filter may plug -- just idle it a little. Unfortunately, I don't know of any easy way to know when the filter goes into bypass mode. You can put in a new filter before putting in the engine flush, that will probably ensure that the filter won't plug. Opening up spent filters can give you some valuable insight.
; and there's also ATF (
) and "Engine Flush" sold in parts stores. For the latter 2, you let oil level drop to close to the bottom of the acceptable level, than add a bottle of ATF or engine flush, or until close to level is reached on the crosshair marks. Then idle the engine for at least 15 - 20 mins, or drive t lightly for a while. Drain oil very thoroughly -- I often drain it in the evening, put in the new filter, put back the plug, but no oil. I remove the plug again in the morning -- and I usually get another pint or so oil out. This ensures the most of the old oil is out. If you think you engine is very dirty, don't drive with a flush in it as the filter may plug -- just idle it a little. Unfortunately, I don't know of any easy way to know when the filter goes into bypass mode. You can put in a new filter before putting in the engine flush, that will probably ensure that the filter won't plug. Opening up spent filters can give you some valuable insight.
New User
Joined: Jan 2006
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I just cleaned my t-body out today... If you are mechanically inclined, it should not be a problem at all to remove and clean. Just be sure you buy the $1 throttle body gasket before you start (in case it is damaged). I got mine at Oreilly's. Start off by taking the two air intake hoses off of the t-body. After that, remove the black plastic cover from the top of the t-body (two sheet metal bolts 7 or 8 mm). After removing, you should see where the throttle linkage is connected to the throttle body. Just pry up on the clip to unhook the linkage. There are four bolts holding it to the plenum (13mm if I remeber) Also on the left top and bottom are two small coolant hoses that have to be removed (they will leak some coolant, I plugged them with bolts. The IAC on the right side (silver cylinder) has a connector that needs to come off. After that there is one more connector that plugs into the bottom of the t-body to unplug. Then it should come off. Be sure to use the cleaner for throttle body and carbs. I used an old toothbrush to scrub the buildup along with the cleaner. Cleaning the body helps for sure, and it's pretty easy, should take less than an hour to do. Good luck!
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 184
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From: eastern iowa
cleaning the throttle body from time to time is a very good idea, and definately produces results in the performance of your vehicle...however, IMHO, engine flushes are a waste of money, time, and can be hard on an engine...todays engine oils do not cause sludging like they used to, and contain plenty of detergents to keep your engine internals clean if serviced regularly...i believe that adding an engine flushing additive destroys the viscosity of your oil, not giving the bearings the proper lubrication they need (even at idle, even if your going to change it 15-20 min. later)...believing that, i can't imagine why they would recommend such a product for high milage engines that allready have plenty of wear from normal use...once again, this is just my opinion... 
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 460
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From: Edmonton, Alberta
To get a good idea of the amount of sludge or varnishing in your engine --> pull a valve cover off. Most of the 302's I've had need new gaskets anyways. ;-) The amount of build up in the top end of that bank can tell you if it's pretty loaded up with crud or not.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,899
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From: Lynnwood, WA
Originally Posted by yamaweezle
i believe that adding an engine flushing additive destroys the viscosity of your oil, not giving the bearings the proper lubrication they need (even at idle, even if your going to change it 15-20 min. later)
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Senior User
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thanks guys for all the inputs.im gonna clean the throtle body and mass air flow sensor and do a tune up and hold off on the engine flush. i also talked to my brother in law who is a mechanic and said somtimes engine flushes can dislodge tiny bits of sludge that may clog up somethings and cause bigger problems.
