I have a 71 2wd f-100 w/ a 390. I am thinking of getting my truck repainted. I was wondering what an guesstament would be for a truck like this. The 2 front fenders have very little rust and there isn't any rust anywhere else. I will probably paint it cherry red or something I haven't decided. Just curious as to how much I would have to fork out.

Thanks
Richard Boyd

 

Richard, are there no paint shops or body shops in your neighborhood, that would be happy to give that info to a pontential customer? You can get all kinds of answers from well meaning posters here that don't paint trucks.


John
jowilker


66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night, you can hear chevys rusting away.

 

Although I can't give you any kind of estimate for painting, but I can tell you that most of the cost will come from the prep-work. If you do most of your own prep then the cost will drop considerably.

-Andrew
f250_64(No Email Addresses In Posts!), same for yahoo messenger

Nothing, and I mean nothing, stirs the soul, saying I'm a bad **** like lettin'em rip with a window shaking, fuel gulpin, carbon monoxide belchin, attention gettin, V-oh my LORD!-8!

 

It really depends on the quality you want in the end..
as the posters say PREP is everything!

Show stuff 4,000 to 10,000.... 4-5 months
macco type maby 1,500....3 weeks
48 rattle cans at 5.95 each = ???...weekend



__JOHN__Õ¿ö
Member-
"Crusin North" Car Club
Santa Rosa, Calif.
72 F-250
ICQ#6030753

 

If you want good paint, that will last; you're just going to have to bite the bullet.
If you just want something to stave off the rust while you save money for the good paint, then go to one of those "We'll paint any vehicle for $189.00" places. Just make sure that YOU do all the masking, or strip the vehicle of anything that you don't want painted.

-Andrew
f250_64(No Email Addresses In Posts!), same for yahoo messenger

Nothing, and I mean nothing, stirs the soul, saying I'm a bad **** like lettin'em rip with a window shaking, fuel gulpin, carbon monoxide belchin, attention gettin, V-oh my LORD!-8!

 

[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="3" FACE="Veranda"]
Keep in mind that most paint shops like to do their own prep.
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[LINK:www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee|http://members.aol.com/tbeeee/page/67registry.jpg]

 

No please tell me you aren't going to get roped into someplace like the 189.95 deal.

I did this, and got the shaft! I stripped my truck, of all the chrome, emblems, bumpers, mirrors, windshield wipers, and anything else that would come off.

Needless to say the quality of the job, stinks! I could have done better in my garage with a can of krylon.

I would say take it to a local shop, and see what they say. But the discount paint places, I wouldn't trust. I did, went in for the $250 special, and wound up paying almost $1,000 (yes those are american dollars guys)

They found stuff wrong, like the quarter panels needed to be resurfaced (at $100 per panel!), and the hood (another $100), filler panel above the bumper & cowling ($100 for both), and tops of the fenders (also needed to be resurfaced {again $100}), I had them do a little bodywork (which has since cracked and come out & they say well we didn't do that bodywork), and the roof had to be resurfaced (you guessed it another $100).

All in all, even after $1,000 and multiple long distance cals to their corporate customer service, I got nowhere! After all that time and effort I wasted to get this truck ready for them, The paint job didn't even shine (you would at least expect it to shine right?)

Guys I had to do that myself. The shop wouldn't attempt it, because they said it would leave black swirls in the paint (factory silver metallic), and that "we don't buff anything that comes out of our shop, no matter what!"

Basically what I am saying is, find a reputable place locally!

Believe me, take a look at the before and after of my truck (below on hotrodford's webpage) I had to do the color sandning & buffing on it. Of course the buffing was all done by hand (compunding & hand glazing), I did it all myself.


[link:www.geocities.com/hotrodford_88/|Hotrodford_88's Webpage]

[link:www.geocities.com/westlake_vfd/Westlake.html|Westlake VFD Website]

 

I just checked to see how much it would be to paint my truck Ive been told from 3 diffrent shops between $3500 and $6000. Im going to get my gun fixed and paint it myself, I need the practice anyway!

 

Richard, There are several things to think about before going through with a paint job. First try to figure out what your budjet allows, prices can vary a lot between different shops.
Second, Do some homework on the shops in your area. Look at the facilities,completed jobs etc. Ask questions about options on different grades of paint ie: enamel,laquer,urethanes,single stage and base clear, all will effect price. Go over the truck with the estimator to make sure you are both on the same page as to what you expect.Last of all ask about warranty. If it is a quality shop they should have a good warranty program backed by the paint manufacturer in writing.
Paint jobs are 90%prep and 10% application. As with most things today you get what you pay for. Hope this helps you. MBG

 

Richard, I have been restoring antique street rods for over 10 years and I do all of the body/paint work myself. I have painted several cars that are valued at over $40,000.00.
I personally charge around $1500.00 to $2500.00 for a standard all over paint job. This includes refinishing all jambs and the lower side of the hood.(if there is a color change)
Of course this price rises if there is substantial body damage to be repaired. If rust holes are present they should be welded or metal patched. (NOT FIBER-GLASSED)
I use only high quality materials.(you get what you pay for!)
Such as a 2 part epoxy primer and 2 stage(base coat/clear coat) urethane or poly-urethane paint.
I don't know how much you know about body & paint work but it is my suggestion to find a professional to do the job.
WHY?
Well, mainly because I have had ALOT of customers in the past who have attempted the task themselves only to end up having it re-done professionally in the end.
This adds more costs to the vehicle owner and more head-ache to the tech. who ends up re-doing the work.
If however, you absolutely insist on doing it yourself.
I would be happy to give some advice when needed. ^__^
Best of luck & Happy New Year!!! Casey B. Allison

 

Casey, Welcome to our fammily of FTE. That is what this list is all about, helping owners with problems, and suggestions on ways to improve their trucks. This is a hard core Ford truck list and that's the way we like it, because we feel they are the best and are way out in front of what ever is in second place.

There are a few other body men around, some engine builders, some race nuts, and a lot of upgraders including myself. I like the comforts of auto shifting, the stopping power of disc brakes, and relief on the big arm steering.

I'm John from Durham North Carolina, and wish to welcome you and hope that you will pull up a chair and sit a spell with us.

Happy new Millennium to all of you.

John
jowilker


66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night,
you can hear chevys rusting away.

 

Casey, as John said welcome aboard. A painting / body repair expert will be a great addition to the already highly informed board here. I am restoring a 79 Ford f-150 4x4 that is now in its second year of work, most all done by me except the engine and body /repair painting. The paint/body project has been the most frustrating aspect of the project. I visited 6 of the 9 paint body shops in my city and was refused their services. The shops stated to me that they quit doing "restores" years ago, because of the great amount of time, shortage of storage space, and labor involved in doing them. They are are primarily "Collision Repair" now, they replace the whole panel, paint it, get the insurance check and move on to the next one. And believe me, ALL of them had PLENTY of crunched vehicles lined up in their lots ,waiting for repair. SO, "Do it youself body repair" and let a pro paint it ?? Forget it, a pro shop worth its salt, will not shoot a vehicle prepped by a handy do it yourselfer. Because,two years later when the prep job starts going bad, and someone asks "who painted your truck", these quality shops, and rightly so, do NOT want their shops name attached to it. So, I finally found a shop in a rural town, (referred to me by a family member) that used to paint for the Mercedes dealer in town, that agreed to take my truck's body / paint job. My truck is a California truck, and had no thru rust, just scrapes, one 16 in. crease in a door, ding rust, some hail damage, holes drilled in top side of the bed rails by a dingbat. So, for $3000.00 he took the job to repair, PPG base/cc inside and out, two tone, total color change. I tried to tell him as he walked around and quoted a price , that regardless of his bid, I wanted a top quality job, and I kept emphasing "quality". Well, I found out the hard way, in the auto paint business, "quality" is a relative term. I stripped the truck of bumpers, moldings, all interior components for him. I passed the shop everday to and forth from work, and for 3 months watched my truck daily, get parked in the field out back every a.m. and pulled back inside at nite. He was using the truck as a "fill in" between his other jobs. After 2 and half months, I confronted him with why he did not just put his guys on the truck and just finish it, he angrily replied " I aint making any money on that truck anyway," I sure cant afford to just let all my other customers go, and just work on yours". I reminded him that I did not bid the job, and I that I had questioned him about his low price when he took the job. He said "I dont do restores anyway, I just took the truck as a favor to you". Whoa, red flag goes up on a statement like that, as I look back. So after 3 months, he did the repair/prime on the outside only, a finish interior job, full of clear coat runs, dirt nibs, and left deep scratches in the original paint, that he just sprayed over anyway. We fell out, just short of a knock down , drag out, I fired him, he fired me, I took the truck home, now I have a in prime truck, that no other shop will touch. One pro shop said he will finish coat the outside only over the prime, no interior repairs, for $ 4000,00 (the truck is still stripped down inside and out, no glass in it,) with no warranty, because he did not do the body prep. So now am forced to either learn to paint it myself, or drive it the way it is. Am sure what I got is not typical for all paint shops, but I did find one later( too late) that does show quality body / paint. He said his work is done no sooner than 1 to 1 1/2 years for final product, and price would be minimum of $6000,00 to $10,000 depending on the amount of body repair and the paint job complexity. I love my old Ford truck, but not THAT much. Sorry about the long post, just venting I guess, I just want all truck restorers to know, that once you get to the paint stage, allow for some serious time investment and do lots of homework and reference checking, before taking your beloved truck to just any paint shop, and expect to pay at least $4000.00. to $5000.00 minumum, to get a good job that will last at least ten years hopefully. best of luck to all,

 

DB69,
If the rust that is in your fenders is at the bottom make sure you power wash the holy h#ll out of them from behnd,then dry with heat or compressed air!Those fenders collect alot of crap back there and by rights you need to cut out all the bad area and clean on the inside and replace with new metal.It is important that this was mentioned cause if thats your only rust it can come back in just a matter of weeks!!And you dont need that.Good luck and never cover rust with glass or filler and you will be ok.
Do you have any friends that paint or no anybody?
I have done all my own body work and a friend will shoot my truck in a week!I am lucky to have a friend that is a A1 painter.
Just dont get in any hurry to find someone to do it!
...blue
1970 f250 4x4

 

Just wanted to say thanks to John & Greg for the warm welcome! Glad to be aboard! One more tip, (no offense to oleblue)
I wouldn't recommend the compressed air method for prepping rust repairs for paint. (Most every air line, even with filters & dryers out the wazoo contain moisture.) A drill with a wire brush attachment and a heat gun are your best bet. Next, use a die grinder & cutting disc to cut the ENTIRE affected area out cleanly.(preferably in one piece.) SAVE THE PIECE!!! Then using it as a pattern, cut a replacement patch from a new piece of sheet metal. (of a similar gauge) I prefer to use part of a damaged discard from the same vehicle if poss.
Some cut the patch oversized and simply hold it in place from the rear side & weld in place. This is okay is you also weld the patch from the rear side as well. I just don't like overlapping sheet metal. It only gives moisture a new crevice in which to gather. I cut my patches to match the original discard. The trick is to slightly bend out one lower corner & hold it in place while bridge welding the gap with a mig welder. Not all at once. Tack each corner & cool with water. Then tack between the tacks with water,water,water. Keep it cool. Heat warps the steel & then you've got waves! Grind the welds flush MORE WATER, GRINDING HEATS TOO! Then a quick resin brushing in & out to seal pinholes in the steel will have you ready for (HOPEFULLY)
some minor mud work & NO MORE RUST!!! WHEWWW!!! That'll be $500.00 for technical advice. ^__^
Kidding of course.
ALWAYS USE A RESPIRATOR WHEN GRINDING RUST!!
SAFETY GLASSES TOO!!! HAVE FUN!!!
FOREVER FORD!!!!! CASEY,aka- cba67

 

Casy, You certianly sound like you know what you are talking about. Your services could be used on the Bodywork conferrence. I have several questions that I would like help with. I just don't have any metal experence at all.

I hope that you will give some thought to giving some guidance there and that conference can become as strong as this one.

John
jowilker


66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night,
you can hear chevys rusting away.