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Timing problems

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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 04:29 PM
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Timing problems

95 150 with a 302. When I put a timing light on it the timing mark is completely under the harmonic balancer. I unplug the spout connector and nothing changes. 2ndly, when I am setting the timing, (10 BTDC), which is the plate I should go by. It has a hole on the left side and a regular looking timing clip on the right. If my timing mark were lining up, which of these two would be the correct one to gauge my timing by?
 
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 05:30 PM
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the number 1 cylinder is the front cylinder on the passengers side. the way to read the timing is by the flat pointer, not the round hole. it also helps to clean the timing marks on the balancer and mark the correct line with something white (white out, grease pen).
 
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 06:06 PM
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Thanks. Is the timing mark on the balancer the squared off groove?
 
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 06:25 PM
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the timing marks start around 20*btdc and end around 10*atdc. i would bump the starter until you see the 16 or so timing marks inscribed in the balancer with numbers near them. then clean them up with sandpaper and mark the correct one so you can see it.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 06:31 PM
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Excellent. Here's a really stupid question. When I set #1 cylinder on TDC of the compression stroke, where should my rotor button be pointing?
 
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 06:47 PM
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on my truck, the rotor points to the 1 o'clock position
 
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 06:51 PM
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What confuses me is I always thought it was supposed to point to the #1 cylinder. But maybe that's just on the old Chevrolets I used to have. This is my first Ford and newest even though it's 11 years old.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 08:45 PM
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Here's a tip: what I've found to be even better than marking the 10* mark with something white is to mark it with something BLACK, like a Sharpie marker. That way, when the harmonic balancer is cleaned up, shiny and reflective, there is more contrast with the black than with the white, which also reflects quite a bit of light. (Try it, you'll like it!)

Jason
 
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Old Mar 17, 2006 | 09:10 PM
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I'll have to try that man. Thanks, David.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 11:16 AM
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Not to confuse the subject, but when #1 is on TDC, it doesn't matter where the rotor is pointing, you just start the wiring for the firing order from that point.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 04:43 PM
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I think your mark is going to be a very hard to see 1/4 to 1/2 inch scribed line. There is a large notch in the balancer, but that is something different.

The engine needs to be warmed up to operating temp, and that SPOUT connector has to be pulled from the circuit. It is impossible to get any readings while the SPOUT is installed, as your computer is changing the timing so fast the mark is likely to be seen everywhere, except 10 BTDC.

Do you have any engine trouble symtoms you would like to tell us, or are you trying to check the timing for alearning experience?
 
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Old Mar 18, 2006 | 05:32 PM
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you remove the spout with the enginee off, ditto for putting it back in.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 12:50 AM
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Got the timining right. Loads more power. Runs great. But I'll still tracking that danged elusive problem that causes it ti die on stop and hesitate on go. It's a killer. 1 gargage told me today to take it to a ford dealer. Thay were completely lost. But I have a friend who's a Ford factory mechanic for over 30 T years. I hop ehe lines me out. I got a 4in lift and 33" boggers screaming to be put on.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by mvoeller2
Not to confuse the subject, but when #1 is on TDC, it doesn't matter where the rotor is pointing, you just start the wiring for the firing order from that point.
It can get confusing if someone else has to work on it. The firing order(ccw rotation) and where the pointer should be is on the wire tower that is clearly marked with a 1 embossed into the cap.
 
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