van turbo
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,244
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From: Morgantown WV
Not even as much as a light bulb.
I found a post on another site about lifting the cab for head studs, here it is.
A total of 8 bolts. Two in the back corners of the cab (remove the back seat to get to these), two behind the front seat under rubber grommets, two more on the floor board on passanger and driver side in the slant of the floor board on the way to firewall (again under rubber grommets). The last two are at the front of the frame near the bumper. Take all of the out except the two in the back corners of the cab loosen those but leave them threaded slightly to keep the cab in line. Behind the front wheels you will find a flat durable place to jack the cab on both sides. Jack them up together about 3-4 inches and you'll have enough clearance for the studs. To get to the bolts in the cab you'll have to peel the floor carpet back but it's not a big deal. Ok my fingers are tired. Hope this helps.
TnDiesel
I found a post on another site about lifting the cab for head studs, here it is.
A total of 8 bolts. Two in the back corners of the cab (remove the back seat to get to these), two behind the front seat under rubber grommets, two more on the floor board on passanger and driver side in the slant of the floor board on the way to firewall (again under rubber grommets). The last two are at the front of the frame near the bumper. Take all of the out except the two in the back corners of the cab loosen those but leave them threaded slightly to keep the cab in line. Behind the front wheels you will find a flat durable place to jack the cab on both sides. Jack them up together about 3-4 inches and you'll have enough clearance for the studs. To get to the bolts in the cab you'll have to peel the floor carpet back but it's not a big deal. Ok my fingers are tired. Hope this helps.
TnDiesel
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, MO
I was wondering if you got the studs in this weekend or not. I think I'm almost as eager to find out what you've got coming as you probably are to get the stuff in the truck.
Have you decided for sure what method you're using for the stud install. Lifting the cab, or rock the motor, since the new info surfaced about rocking the motor?
Have you decided for sure what method you're using for the stud install. Lifting the cab, or rock the motor, since the new info surfaced about rocking the motor?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,605
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From: Elkhorn, WI
Originally Posted by jtharvey
I was wondering if you got the studs in this weekend or not. I think I'm almost as eager to find out what you've got coming as you probably are to get the stuff in the truck.
Have you decided for sure what method you're using for the stud install. Lifting the cab, or rock the motor, since the new info surfaced about rocking the motor?
Have you decided for sure what method you're using for the stud install. Lifting the cab, or rock the motor, since the new info surfaced about rocking the motor?
what exactly are the head studs because they are way too expensive to just be special hardened bolts. i thought they just went in place of the stock bolts and you put the studs in until i saw the price. how come you have to pull the cab off or rock the motor?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
Likes: 12
From: 21791
they are extremely hard and strong metal studs that have a tensile strength well over 230,000 psi, whereas stockers are only about 150,000 psi i assume. prevents from blowing a head gasket due to floating a head. you can remove one at a time and replace them without breaking a seal. the reason you need to lift the cab or roll the engine (which i have never heard of) to get the ones in the back near the firewall.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, MO
That rocking the motor one is unique, but I think I'd feel more comfortable lifting the cab. But, if one is easier than the other, I'll probably take the easy route. I'm curious to see how Kevin does his. Also, if you haven't blown a head gasket, you don't want to break the seal on the factory one. It's had a good number of heat cycles on it to help it form a very tough bond with the metal. It should seal better than new ones, unless you put some fire rings in -- then not much, if anything, will seal better.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 236
Likes: 1
From: Texas
Thats good because it means that the turbo im bidding on is an improvement over stock. I was thinking that the stock AR's were 1.0 and .84 but wasn't sure. So this turbo would almost be like a van turbo with an ATS shroud?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
Likes: 12
From: 21791
what are you bidding on? i have the exhaust housing coming for my truck, i can make a van turbo out of what i have now. i believe i want to rebuild my turbo in class, i have all the stuff i need to check it. it doesn't spin NEARLY as smoothly as a turbo off a Series 60 Detroit with 893,650 miles (yes that many) and still on the FACTORY, unrebuilt turbocharger! i guess the guy before me didn't let his cool down and i've got some coking on the shaft. i can take the intake boot off, start the engine, let it get to speed and then shut it off. it spins for about 3 seconds and stops very quickly. i can only get 25psi too.
damn. back to your question- the ATS shroud will be a 1.15 AR on both sides, which SHOULD have equal drive pressure and boost pressure ratios to a certain level. i just got the urge for the ATS housing right now typing this, so therefore i want it.
damn. back to your question- the ATS shroud will be a 1.15 AR on both sides, which SHOULD have equal drive pressure and boost pressure ratios to a certain level. i just got the urge for the ATS housing right now typing this, so therefore i want it.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 236
Likes: 1
From: Texas
It is a garret turbo, brand new and the guy said that it goes to a 7.3 powerstroke and by the pics of the bottom of the turbo it looks like it would go to a powerstroke. Also its only at $51 with $25 for shipping right now. So I figure if I can get it for less than the price of an ATS shroud then I could get a new turbo with a bigger exhaust and almost as big of an intake that just the shroud would give me.